no spark - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum

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no spark


This is a discussion on no spark within the Arctic Cat Prowler General Discussions forums, part of the The Garage category; So, spent the last few days working with the dependant trying to get my lightbar and warn trail lights wired
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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So, spent the last few days working with the dependant trying to get my lightbar and warn trail lights wired in. At one point while trying to connect a lead to the battery, I had juice going on and off and on again several times trying to get the damn nut to grab. Didnt really think much of it then, but now today I went to start it to give the battery a charge and I have no spark. It cranks very well, even had the charger on it to be sure, cylinders cycle and fuel pump runs to prime when you turn the key on, but when I pull the plugs, ground them, and watch, I have absolutely no spark. Went through the fuses in the fuse box above the battery, are there any other locations I could check?

Thanks
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2010 Desert Red XTZ 1000 aka The Dependent

KFI Stealth SE-45 4500lb winch - UTV Inc Coolant Temp kit with AutoMeter Arctic White Gauge - Frankenstein UTV Inc Oil pressure kit with AutoMeter Arctic White Gauge - SuperBrightLED's 30" 90W light bar - Warn Trail lights for reverse lights - American Eagle Manufacturing 72" V-Force V plow with Electric Turn System - Maxxis Bighorn rubbers
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bauer View Post
So, spent the last few days working with the dependant trying to get my lightbar and warn trail lights wired in. At one point while trying to connect a lead to the battery, I had juice going on and off and on again several times trying to get the damn nut to grab. Didnt really think much of it then, but now today I went to start it to give the battery a charge and I have no spark. It cranks very well, even had the charger on it to be sure, cylinders cycle and fuel pump runs to prime when you turn the key on, but when I pull the plugs, ground them, and watch, I have absolutely no spark. Went through the fuses in the fuse box above the battery, are there any other locations I could check?

Thanks
not real sure on the xtz but all my fuses are under the drivers seat,maybe that wire sparking did something to the coil or rectifier.????????????????? for the heck of it try a new set of plugs.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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found it, the connection to the gauge cluster was off, every other electric connector on the bike takes 4 screwdrivers and a miracle to get appart, but that one has one tiny little tab holding it on, while having the dash lifted off at an angle to gain access for wiring in switches, I must have stressed it enough to pop the connector off.
What a waste of a night
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2010 Desert Red XTZ 1000 aka The Dependent

KFI Stealth SE-45 4500lb winch - UTV Inc Coolant Temp kit with AutoMeter Arctic White Gauge - Frankenstein UTV Inc Oil pressure kit with AutoMeter Arctic White Gauge - SuperBrightLED's 30" 90W light bar - Warn Trail lights for reverse lights - American Eagle Manufacturing 72" V-Force V plow with Electric Turn System - Maxxis Bighorn rubbers
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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found it, the connection to the gauge cluster was off, every other electric connector on the bike takes 4 screwdrivers and a miracle to get appart, but that one has one tiny little tab holding it on, while having the dash lifted off at an angle to gain access for wiring in switches, I must have stressed it enough to pop the connector off.
What a waste of a night
The easy fixes is what we like.I know what you mean about some of those connections can be a pain.
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06 XT.Dynotek, pumper carb,looney tune duals,trail armor doors,diamond back bed cover,coolflo windshield,auto meter oil pressure,water temp,volt gauge, console,custom steering wheel,epi clutch kit,king shocks,rear diff mod, steering stabilizer,Ricochet A-Arm guards,Xentec Hids H/L beam,XTZ scoop LED light bar.A/C flares,TypeI fuses, Snorkel kit with pre-Filter, 4-wheel Disc Brakes,Dust shield,CVT Fan,A/C Back cover,steerlite bushings, Belt Temp Gauge,Rugged Radio, STI BEAD LOCKS,2'' lift.
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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great news,,,,,,,at least it didn't cost anything to fix
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Wiring can be a pain at times, snap on connecters present a challenge at times!
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Either - Dick or RD
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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hey you just gave me an idea on wants wrong with his I have not fixed yet.
Thanks
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey Rob, your sled looks Badass just sitting there!
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Either - Dick or RD
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Old 12-12-2013, 08:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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SO, after all of this, I am still stumped by ACs poor design on this. Here is why, In order to get the cover off the fuse box in the battery location, you need fingers the size of ramen noodles and an extra hand. In order to pop the connectors for the headlights, you need cat-like reflexes and a ninja to drop kick the *%^$ out of it to push it off the lead.

BUT

in order to remove the pin connector for the dash, all you need is a feather to the top side of it to depress the tab and presto, instant pain-in-the-ass-2hours-fighting-no-spark-and-searching-all-over-for-a-tripped-sensor-or-fried-coils.

Bouncing down the trails could cause the same problem, and then you are up trail-head-hill without a motor and no star #25 & #30 to remove the dash to get your hand in there.

Aiyiyi.
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2010 Desert Red XTZ 1000 aka The Dependent

KFI Stealth SE-45 4500lb winch - UTV Inc Coolant Temp kit with AutoMeter Arctic White Gauge - Frankenstein UTV Inc Oil pressure kit with AutoMeter Arctic White Gauge - SuperBrightLED's 30" 90W light bar - Warn Trail lights for reverse lights - American Eagle Manufacturing 72" V-Force V plow with Electric Turn System - Maxxis Bighorn rubbers
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bauer View Post
SO, after all of this, I am still stumped by ACs poor design on this. Here is why, In order to get the cover off the fuse box in the battery location, you need fingers the size of ramen noodles and an extra hand. In order to pop the connectors for the headlights, you need cat-like reflexes and a ninja to drop kick the *%^$ out of it to push it off the lead.

BUT

in order to remove the pin connector for the dash, all you need is a feather to the top side of it to depress the tab and presto, instant pain-in-the-ass-2hours-fighting-no-spark-and-searching-all-over-for-a-tripped-sensor-or-fried-coils.

Bouncing down the trails could cause the same problem, and then you are up trail-head-hill without a motor and no star #25 & #30 to remove the dash to get your hand in there.

Aiyiyi.
I like your way of putting thing's. lol I tried to unplug my front actuator so I could put dielectric grease on it never did get it unplugged.
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