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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Dies when hot

Hey guys so i have a 2009 XTZ. It runs fine and performs great. Usually... Around 40 hours ago had a full rebuild done due to the rear headgasket failing. Here recently i've had an issue with when the unit gets nice and hot (operating temp) while putting around it will no longer idle (fan cycles on and off). It will stay running when i have it idled up via the pedal, but if i get off of the pedal it will die. Currently it'll spudder (rev limit) at right below 5k. I have done the spark plugs again and replaced one of the wire and coil i thought was possibly the issue (these things aren't cheap). I'm pretty much at a loss here. I've checked the fuel pressure before and the Key on engine off pressure was somewhere close to 45lbs if i remember right. Any experience with this or good places to start???? Thanks
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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The longer i try to keep it running i start losing power at wide open throttle and it'll start backfiring on me.
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 07:56 PM
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You've got plenty of fuel pressure, I think it's suppose to be 43 lbs, it kind of sounds like the valves might be out of adjustment.
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'07 Prowler 650 H1 XT, L.E.D. stop/turn signals, Summit Racing heater, AC winch, AC windshield, soft cab & doors, 6' Eagle Plow, oil gauge, Maxxis MT-762 truck tires, AC Fender Flares, E-Brake alarm, Yutrax UTV Jump Seat, Dynatek CDI
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadraDuraBurb View Post
The longer i try to keep it running i start losing power at wide open throttle and it'll start backfiring on me.
i was reading this and i was thinking it might be what happened to mine but once i saw this post its everything mine did. i had 3 arctic cat engineers working on mine for weeks (under warranty thank god) and they finally found the issue. they said there was an area (they didnt tell me where) that the wire harness was run above a part of the frame where it should have been run under. this caused the harness to rub through and ground out.
mine would run but not fast, wouldnt idle for anything, the longer i ran it it would backfire, and oddly enough i would have to give it gas to start.
my bet is your grounding out somewhere. most likely in the area that work was being performed. if the motor was removed to fix it there will be more areas to check.
hope this helps

2012 700 Prowler HDX, re-routed intake, LXC cab with heat, HID headlights, tonneau box cover, LED dome lights
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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What sucks is i can't monitor anything like i would when diagnosing one of my vehicles. I've never had to give it gas to start it. If i let it sit it'll crank right up and idle (dying shortly after depending on if it's warmed up or not). What year was your unit car_crazy?
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 08:46 PM
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mine was the 2012 hdx. i bought it used (1 year old). the previous owner blew it up and traded it in. the dealer threw a new motor in it and gave it a 6 month warranty. its my thoughts are that when they pulled the motor they ran the wire harness incorrectly when they threw it back in. it took about 2 or so weeks for the problem to show up. they said to keep running it hoping it would come out of it. as the days went on is when the unit needed me to press the gas to start. it also ran worse and started throwing a bunch of codes. it ran so bad i wasnt sure i would make it home the last time i rode it before bringing it in. i rode it for about 2 or 3 weeks before hauling it in.

2012 700 Prowler HDX, re-routed intake, LXC cab with heat, HID headlights, tonneau box cover, LED dome lights
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 04:03 AM
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Who did the rebuild? If it was a dealer, I'd get them involved ASAP! Runs fine until warm, then will not idle? Sounds like clearances may be on the tight side. Start with the valve adjustments, too tight here, and it will not idle as it heats up.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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The rebuild was done at a shop. It ran good until recently, but i guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to check valve lash. It was fine until the past 5 hours or so when it started acting up and seems to have gotten steady worse. I know i said i have 40 hours on it, but its closer to around 45. 40 hours of problem free riding. The guy is a pretty straight up dude, so i will hit him with this information and see what we can do.
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:17 AM
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I am thinking :Vapor Lock: If it was rebuilt 40plus hours ago, no problems until lately, that cancels out the valve lash. But, if a fuel line was redirected to a "hotspot", that would cause the fuel to vaporize after the regulator and before the fuel injectors, wammo! Instant vapor lock! Hard start, backfire... YEP! Baja boats had this problem with the fuel injected 502's, Ran great while the cold fuel was pouring in, but when it got hot, after slowing down, did exactly this. I know I'm comparing 2 different beasts, but... That's exactly what the Baja's would do. Next time it does it, CAREFULLY... Very CAREFULLY, let the pressure off the fuel line. Once its expelled, tighten it back up and try it. We used tire valve removing Tee's to loosen the Schrader valves, on the fuel pressure regulator. I'm sure the A/C is different, but it may be the same concept. Once the pressure was relieved, the 502's would fire right up.
If it fires right up and runs good after doing this, look for a place where the fuel line could be getting hot and insulate or re-route it.
Might be a long shot, but if I were a gambling man...


Oh, ya.... I am!

'09 650XT H1, 72" Eagle Plow, Warn 3500 Winch. Bestop soft cab, soft top, wind buster & cargo cover. Dyna FX CDI box, UNI filters, A/C V-bag and front console, EPI 2" lift kit, Highlifter springs, Scat ProCar suspension seats with heated covers. SteerLite bushings. 28x10 Raceline Bruisers on Vision 158 14X8 rims, on all 4 corners. Cowling heat vents w/fan. Factory heat and defrost. RD Custom's alternator kit. XTZ hood scoop, Monster shock covers, turn signals... for now.
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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
I am thinking :Vapor Lock: If it was rebuilt 40plus hours ago, no problems until lately, that cancels out the valve lash. But, if a fuel line was redirected to a "hotspot", that would cause the fuel to vaporize after the regulator and before the fuel injectors, wammo! Instant vapor lock! Hard start, backfire... YEP! Baja boats had this problem with the fuel injected 502's, Ran great while the cold fuel was pouring in, but when it got hot, after slowing down, did exactly this. I know I'm comparing 2 different beasts, but... That's exactly what the Baja's would do. Next time it does it, CAREFULLY... Very CAREFULLY, let the pressure off the fuel line. Once its expelled, tighten it back up and try it. We used tire valve removing Tee's to loosen the Schrader valves, on the fuel pressure regulator. I'm sure the A/C is different, but it may be the same concept. Once the pressure was relieved, the 502's would fire right up.
If it fires right up and runs good after doing this, look for a place where the fuel line could be getting hot and insulate or re-route it.
Might be a long shot, but if I were a gambling man...


Oh, ya.... I am!
I would have never guessed!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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