08 prowler 650 can not get out of 4x4 - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy 08 prowler 650 can not get out of 4x4

Read 4x4 issues by razer and gone 2 the hills here, but seem to have another issue. Based on the rapid wear of the front tires, lifted the cat up and started it. Found out that all four wheels are driving, even if 4WD switch is not selected. If 4WD is selected, the indicator will show up in the tachometer. Front wheels have a smaller outside diameter than rear ones, but turn the same revolutions....and breaking is done with them too!
I bought a new engine months ago, the first one I "sanded" for the lack of performance of the standard air filter in the dust of the Baja off roads. It was installed near San Diego.
Since I'm in Mexico, it's hard to get parts or service. Could someone please tell me what to check/test out or adjust to have the 2WD work as it should? Are there any parts I should order, I could get them down by Christmas.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 04:46 PM
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first of all check to make sure all your wires have a good connection,,,including the ground,,does it make noise when you shift it in and out??.....try these things first,,,also when you take all your plugs apart,put some die electric greese in the plugs after you clean everything out

2012 prowler xtx custom doors ,bumpers ,lightbar,windshield.rollcage ,stereo,5000lb winch,28"wsamp lites ,1 1/2"wheel spacers.custom graphics,custom rear roll bar,factory fender flares cb radio ltz hoodscoop ac soft top and rear window,ac aluminium skidplates,temp and volt guage ,2"lift kit and sti beadlock wheels
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-24-2013, 04:46 PM
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Can you hear the 4-wheel drive actuator on the axle operate when you flip the switch? Also do you notice any difference when you lock the diff. is there any chance that the pin that locks the front end is stuck engaged?

'07 Prowler 650 H1 XT, L.E.D. stop/turn signals, Summit Racing heater, AC winch, AC windshield, soft cab & doors, 6' Eagle Plow, oil gauge, Maxxis MT-762 truck tires, AC Fender Flares, E-Brake alarm, Yutrax UTV Jump Seat, Dynatek CDI
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Last edited by mlh1962; 11-24-2013 at 04:57 PM.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your responses. Following up on your suggestions, I naturally have more questions, since I don't completely understand the workings of the beast!
There is no noise coming out of the front diff or the black plastic box mounted on the right behind it when switching 4WD on or off. I disconnected the wire plug about a foot back from the black box behind the front diff (4 pin connector) with the same results. Tachometer panel indicates correctly 4WD on or off readout. With this plug disconnected, should the cat now only be in 2WD, even so the read-out says 4WD?
There are 2 wires branching off the wire loom going to the black box, which appear to be going to the bottom of the diff.

I presume the 2WD operates the rear wheels under normal conditions?! Why would I have an un proportionally much larger wheel-wear on the front wheels?

Could you please help me along in my puzzle?

Can one safely take this black box off the front diff without damaging anything? Is this where this pin is which could be stuck?
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manfred View Post
Thank you for your responses. Following up on your suggestions, I naturally have more questions, since I don't completely understand the workings of the beast!
There is no noise coming out of the front diff or the black plastic box mounted on the right behind it when switching 4WD on or off. I disconnected the wire plug about a foot back from the black box behind the front diff (4 pin connector) with the same results. Tachometer panel indicates correctly 4WD on or off readout. With this plug disconnected, should the cat now only be in 2WD, even so the read-out says 4WD?
There are 2 wires branching off the wire loom going to the black box, which appear to be going to the bottom of the diff.

I presume the 2WD operates the rear wheels under normal conditions?! Why would I have an un proportionally much larger wheel-wear on the front wheels?

Could you please help me along in my puzzle?

Can one safely take this black box off the front diff without damaging anything? Is this where this pin is which could be stuck?
If your actuator has failed while engaged in 4WD unplugging the wire won't disengage it and since your not hearing any noise from it when flipping the switch it's a good chance that's the bad part as long as your sure your getting a good electrical connection to the actuator. I can hear mine kick in and out easy while sitting in the drivers seat.

As for the front tire wear it will all depend on what kind of surface you drive on, tire pressure and your front end alignment. I do a lot of pavement driving and my front tires are getting close to being worn out and I still have close to half tread on the rear. That being said I did have an alignment problem and you will also find that these are setup from the factory with a "toe out" setting and a lot of people are changing it to "toe in" to help with the steering and tire wear.

I'm sure someone on here will chime in and give you some ideas of other things to check before you buy parts just to be sure. Maybe someone has removed the actuator and figured out a way to hookup a battery to test it to either confirm or rule it out as a bad part.

Here's a link to a free pdf repair manual you can download, just scroll down the list until you find your model:
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"

'07 Prowler 650 H1 XT, L.E.D. stop/turn signals, Summit Racing heater, AC winch, AC windshield, soft cab & doors, 6' Eagle Plow, oil gauge, Maxxis MT-762 truck tires, AC Fender Flares, E-Brake alarm, Yutrax UTV Jump Seat, Dynatek CDI
Missouri Mike
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 12:43 PM
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I assume you have the electric differential lock? with a switch as compared to cable actuated. Is your differential locked also? you would notice makes it very hard to steer. Just wondering as you said all 4 wheels are spinning.

You should be able to check for power by unplugging the actuator using a test light or something on the plug. If you have power down there, might just be the switch.

Those actuator fail often so I wouldn't doubt yours just happened to stop working when you had it in 4wd. I know those are quite easy to change and you could even pull it out and plug it back in to see if its working.

The little lead going into the bottom is just an indicator light for diff lock on your gauge cluster.

2008 XTX, AC Cab, AC Flip out windshield & Wiper, AC Brush Guard_ Rear Bumper, AC winch, 4500Warn in Rear, Gee FJ-1 Floor Gun Rack, Temp&Volt Guages, Fan Override Switch Delete, Summit Heater, Master Disconnect Switch, ACC Fuse Block, Optima Yellow Top Battery,Override Switch Delete,27 Mudlites, AC 72" Quick Attach Plow

Name: Thomas

2006 AC 500 Auto 4X4
2006 AC 700 CROSSFIRE
2008 AC 700 TBX Auto 4x4
2014 AC M8 HCR
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Gone2thehills, I appreciate that you came back and provided more information! You are right, the steering is quite difficult and in curves at higher speeds a bit scary, indicating that the front diff is locked. The 4wd is switched on/off by an electric switch on the dash. There seems to be a mechanical switch next to this one marked pull diff lock. It does not seem to do anything. there is also an electric overdrive switch on the center console, which I have not figured out what it is for and never used.

Another question arises, if the little lead going into the bottom is just an indicator light for the diff lock on the gauge cluster, why does it then not indicate that the front diff is locked? Shouldn't it do this?

On the other hand, if the actuator has failed (I called it black box before) and they seem to be prone to fail, to change this unit out and the cat works again would save me a 2000 mile haul of the cat to the States and back. Do you have a parts number for this module? this would help, since I could get one down here by Christmas.

I'll follow-up your idea with the test light and possible pulling out the actuator. I could not see how the test light is attached. Will I loose any diff oil by removing the test light and/or actuator?

Your help is appreciated.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 07:35 AM
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It sounds like you have the manual diff lock like I have and the cable may be corroded. You should have the word "Lock" Under the 4wd indicator, if you don't there's a single wire that plugs in by the lock cable adjustment bracket below the actuator. If you downloaded the manual I put a link to it will have photos of what you need to check. If the diff is locked I'm sure your really eating tires up!

The switch on the console is a rev limiter override switch, the prowler limits your rpm's in reverse, while in 4wd you can hold the switch and it lets you have more rpm's to use when you need it.

'07 Prowler 650 H1 XT, L.E.D. stop/turn signals, Summit Racing heater, AC winch, AC windshield, soft cab & doors, 6' Eagle Plow, oil gauge, Maxxis MT-762 truck tires, AC Fender Flares, E-Brake alarm, Yutrax UTV Jump Seat, Dynatek CDI
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 10:29 AM
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the part for the actuator is 0502-579

You can use a site like Arctic Cat Parts and Accessories | Arctic Cat Parts House to find blow up diagrams and find part numbers. The downloaded manual is also a must have.

I have the same diff as you with the cable. I have had some problems with diff lock but it was because it was not engage.

I was saying to use a test light to test power down to the actuator to make sure it wasn't your switch that was bad. To do this unplug the actuator and using a test light start probing those barbs with the key on. If you have power down to the actuator and pushing the switch you don't hear anything (like a weezzing) then more than likely your actuator is shot.

Typically I always run in 2 wheel drive then switch to 4wheel (really 3 wheel) then pull the cable for true 4 wheel drive. With the cable pulled you should feel the steering get very tight. You are not suppose to go very fast or very long in diff lock because its so hard on the rig.

to see if its in diff lock, pull that cable back and see if it gets even harder to steer. If it doesn't get any harder to steer you may be stuck in diff lock and im not sure if you would be able to take it out of 4wheel (the switch). I can check this tonight when I get home.

The actuator can be changed without draining the diff., the only issue is I think the manual says to make sure its in 2 wheel when it goes back together. Again not sure can check when I get home.

2008 XTX, AC Cab, AC Flip out windshield & Wiper, AC Brush Guard_ Rear Bumper, AC winch, 4500Warn in Rear, Gee FJ-1 Floor Gun Rack, Temp&Volt Guages, Fan Override Switch Delete, Summit Heater, Master Disconnect Switch, ACC Fuse Block, Optima Yellow Top Battery,Override Switch Delete,27 Mudlites, AC 72" Quick Attach Plow

Name: Thomas

2006 AC 500 Auto 4X4
2006 AC 700 CROSSFIRE
2008 AC 700 TBX Auto 4x4
2014 AC M8 HCR
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 11:01 AM
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another thing; the actuator is basically a circuit board and a plastic worm gear. If you determine that your actuator is failed open it up and see if its the worm gear that failed. Most of the time moisture gets in the circuit board and kills it, but if its the worm gear you may be able to find someone to fix the circuit board for you.

2008 XTX, AC Cab, AC Flip out windshield & Wiper, AC Brush Guard_ Rear Bumper, AC winch, 4500Warn in Rear, Gee FJ-1 Floor Gun Rack, Temp&Volt Guages, Fan Override Switch Delete, Summit Heater, Master Disconnect Switch, ACC Fuse Block, Optima Yellow Top Battery,Override Switch Delete,27 Mudlites, AC 72" Quick Attach Plow

Name: Thomas

2006 AC 500 Auto 4X4
2006 AC 700 CROSSFIRE
2008 AC 700 TBX Auto 4x4
2014 AC M8 HCR
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