Hey
Sorry Im such a lurker, too busy with things around the house to get on here much any more it seems.
Took the xtz out for a drive the otherday, finally had a warm enough day to go out and play in the snow. Been waiting since Nov 6 for the new snow plow so no choice but to romp around in it. I came home, parked the machine, let it idle down and cool off and shut it off. Next day I went to load it in the trailer to go try the hard water for some walleyes and it did not want to start, giving it a little bit of gas via the go pedal and it would fire, would idle at very low rpms barely staying running. Took it for a 100' drive and noticed an incredible lack of power, immediately returned it to the shop to inspect what was going on.
I first noticed that the first air filter was badly clogged and dusty, cleaned that to improve air flow, no change. Then went to the air box to check the second filter and when I removed the cover, I found about 1/8 cup of oil in the air box.
When running, there is no metal sounds, holding my thumb over the cylinder with the plugs out reveals some compression (primitive I know), plugs seem to have good spark, but I have new ones coming and should be here tomorrow (benefit of living in small town, nothing when you need it ever)
A young friend did take it for a ride, but most definately did not roll it over, I cant vouch for whether or not he over rev'd it in the snow though.
SO:
Theories???
(1) over rev'd the engine, maybe bent an intake valve?? Is there an inspection cover for adjusting valves where I might be able to see them moving?
(2) plugged breather somewhere forcing oil up into the airbox?
(3) bad rings/damaged rings causing blow by?
(4) a dead cylinder from no spark just pushing oil?
Sorry, dont sound good your friend could have over rev'd it,but they have a rev limiter,the oil would Be coming from your breather tube coming from your crank case un-less that hose is plugged and it's pushing oil back through the throttle body into the air box,how dirty was your main filter,I would guess NO-3 or NO-2
call to the local arctic cat service shop claims oil in the air box, even the amount that I found, is not uncommon after a hard ride, their first recommendation is new plugs as they are likely fouled badly. I touched em up with a bit of sand paper and they seem to have good spark, so I am still questioning this. But the new ones tomorrow morning will hopefully reveal an answer.
I hope your dealer is right,I myself have never heard of oil in the air box being normal,but I'm not familiar with the 1000 motor...let us know what you find out.
I did encounter oil in the air box on mine, but It was when I first got the machine. I think the filter element was soaked in oil by the original owner. I had about an 1/8 in the bottom of the box. I drained the air box, and cleaned it with brake cleaner. I cleaned the filter element and treated it properly with air filter oil, no further issues! Which side of the box did you have oil in?
well....
new plugs seem to have fixed the issue. Put the new plugs in and it immediately fired off, purred like a kitten. A short run revealed I have my power back and no oil as of yet in air box. Something like -10 with wind chill here today, so ride was very short HA.
Thanks for the info guys, glad it was something so simple.
Hi everyone, sounds like I have similiar or same problem. I just finished adjusting my clutch linkage and finally shifting better. However while out and about lost power to limp and blew serious blue. Thinking motor is requiring rebuilt I discoverd at least a cup of oil in air box, right near air intake. So now Looking further my primary air filter was very dirty so I am picking up new plugs, oil filter and oil and hopefully in the next couple days. My questions are in the line of prevention!!! How can I correct this air filter plugging up??? should I reroute (snorkel like??) or use different make of filters?? (I think mine are stock, bought unit used)? Can I just wash primary with soap and water and dry well or does it require anything special. ANy advice or what you others have done to solve the air filter dirt causing oil to flow back into airbox instead of back into crank case. I will appreciate. For all those on the other link that gave advice thank you otherwise I would not have gotten this far as fast probably just let it sit until had money to rebuilt. LOL
Thinking your machine has two air filters, The pre-filter is foam and can be cleaned in soap and water and air dried (no oil needed), the main filter in the air box can also be cleaned with soap and water, or a air filter cleaner and then oiled. With my pre-filter in place I can go several months without cleaning the main filter unless I'm in constant dust! The service manual can tell you how to clean and re-oil the filter. The oil separator should the oil to drain back into the motor but I'm not sure how the hoses are routed.
I spray my pre-filter and main filter with K&N filter cleaner, if I run out, I used DAWN. Then I oil them with K&N air filter oil, comes in a spray can. If I'm doing some real nasty gravel road driving, I'll rub a little chain saw bar oil onto the filter. Again, just enough to coat it. I think the biggest reason people get oil in the airbox, is by over oiling the filters. Or using the wrong oil. If you use an oil that can't take the heat, it gets runny and drips off the filter, into the box. Same with cold air kits on cars and trucks. Too much oil will cause the mass air flow to get coated and cause a CEL to come on or make the engine run sluggish. Filters should just be oiled enough to just feel damp, always oil on the air inlet side. I also carry a fresh, pre-oiled, pre-filter in my "oh ****" bag, when running really dusty gravel roads or trails.
RD had faster fingers than I do! He hit the post button while I was still huntin and peckin. I probably wash and clean my pre-filter 5 times to every one time for my main filter. I see some guys just remove the main and run a small K&N or Moose on the snorkel. I'm not that brave....
At one point in time the hot setup was to eliminate the airbox and use a cone type filter. Several firms added windows with screens to the airbox lid! I'm afraid of dust and fine dirt in a motor, I'd rather just blow them up! LOL
Well I have no plan our desire to either blow it up or distribution it up. Unfortunately I do drive skirt off dust when I do get a chance to get out in it so hopefully I we will discover a better option. In the meantime I will do the filter cleans and oil change then monitor oil levels and air filter cleanliness and maybe enjoy this Prowler fun. I will keep checking for advice and ideas but I need someone to tell me what is working for them I won't gamble with a motor. Lol
Two best things for the Prowler! 1) Clean air filters, and 2) Oil and filter changes when needed! I have a 2009 700XTX Prowler and the factory locations for intake air were terrible! Behind the drivers seat between the bed and down very low! I used 2" PVC and fittings to snorkel mine (Spears MFG has black schedule 40 PVC fittings and pipe, I'm anal so I used them!) It brought the air intakes up to shoulder level behind the seats. Cleaner air, easy to clean the pre-filter, and eliminated a lot of heat from the clutch! There are (were?) snorkel kits available, but many make their own! As far as oil, I highly recommend the synthetics oils. I use Amsoil because of the availability locally to my location, but just about all of the synthetics are good! Just need to make certain it will work with a wet clutch.
The PO snorkeled my intake to in front of the radiator. Sounds good in theory, cold clean air. It didn't work as well as the stock position behind the drivers seat. The prefilter was really dirty and had a pretty dirty filter and box. Clean on the intake side. This last trip the prefilter wasn't as dirty and the box had less dust and dirt then before.
I don't see an easy way to snorkel a xtz and decided I'm not going in water that's going to get my a$$ wet.
Well dirty filters was not the problem. Cleaned everything with 2" ducting including crankcase. With in 10 min I filled the air box with oil again. Is there a PCV?? Why is it easier for oil to go into the air box instead of back into crank case?
Filling the box sound like that seem like way to much pressure. So I concur with the fellas. You checked or replaced the oil separator right? I think you did tell us that.
For giggles I would disconnect the separator and run test lines from the crankcase into a clear bottles in the passenger seat. Then fire it up and see what is happening.
Sounds like blowby creating pressure in the crankcase. Ring seal could cause this. How many miles on your machine? Time for a compression check? Not sure how the oil separator is plumbed in, one hose to the top of the airbox, one to the crankcase, and one to? No PVC valve that I'm aware of.
next is compression test. If the rings are whooped then that is is a very quick blow back. But I am so new to this its a learning experience. Don't really want to spend money on a rebuild?? Is a rebuild simple enough for me to learn by the book.
Any way time to continue on. Thanks for all the input. You guys are great.
The service manual is a great guide! Easy and accurate. Guessing by your info, rebuilding the top end should be easy for you. You can do the top end without pulling the motor. Word of caution if you hone the cylinders beware of the plating and only use a ball hone per the manuals instruction. Standard rings will work fine gapped as needed. Head bolts may be reusable, but I've found them not to be! I snapped several off at near the torque setting. Some dealers say reuse them, other say don't!
well i did the compression tests. I got 111 psi on front and 117 psi on rear. Added 30mls in spark plug hole and got approx 180 psi front and 117 psi rear. So guess its a rebuild?? Sucks - hind site is great because guy sold it too me and he knew what he did because i was getting a bit of oil in the airbox once i got it home. But I guess this is a learning toy and I am fine with learning.LOL
IIRC [if I remember correctly] ... it's part of the cam function not a release valve type of devise .... but please read up on that before you take my thoughts to heart
manual says front 80psi- 120psi rear 150-190psi not sure what is meant by compression release on one cylindar but the specs in the manual do have cylindars at different pressures. I just hope the parts are not too pricey up hear in canada? I am not familiar enough to order the parts online - cuz i will probably end up with cheap stuff. lol. getting a couple quotes soon, before i start tearing it apart just for an ideal.
Front cylinder has a device on the cam that bumps the exhaust valve off the seat while cranking. Once you hit RPM a centrifugal counter weight removes the high spot and engine runs normal. Usually if you turn the motor over by hand you can hear the bump spot! Hopefully your cylinders are not damaged, but if they are you can get them re-plated at U.S. Chrome. All part of buying used! Actually this can be a good thing as you learn your machine!
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