2008 XT650 questions on brakes and carb - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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2008 XT650 questions on brakes and carb

New owner here and though I've only had my machine for right at a week I have found a couple issues that I hope you guys could help me with. First is kind of minor and I figure I know what it is, but this thing is hard to start cold. It's as if the choke isn't working. I can pump the throttle about six times and it will try then two more and it starts. This is after sitting for 24 hours in 30* weather so its cold. I figure the choke doesn't work or isn't working properly. Also it looks as if there is an accelerator pump on the drivers side of the carb as viewed from the drivers seat but there is no rod connected to it. Shouldn't there be?

Second is I went for a little ride on Sat with my daughter and after a long ride downhill, approximately .75 to 1 mile long of gravel road, I went to ease on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. I immediately hit it again and it was perfect. I noticed that if I did not touch it for about 20 seconds it would drop to the floor but a second push would bring it back. I eased down the road about another mile and all was good and has been since. I guess I put 20-30 miles on it before this happens with no issues whatsoever until this. It wasn't like the master cylinder was bypassing, in the sense like they do if you hold steady pressure on it, more like there was nothing connected to it at all. This puzzles me greatly and worries me too cause I want to let my kids ride it and by themselves. I checked that the rear caliper was tight as I thought I could hear a rattling noise from back there when tapping the pedal but it's good.

Any help would be appreciated!
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 04:23 AM
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Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you need to bleed the brakes. The rear caliper on these things have a history of being noisy, no harm just annoying. The 650 is a great machine, many owners on this site. I can't help with the carb, but others will help!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 07:36 AM
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Welcome to the site! I used to have to crank mine over several times to get it to start no matter what the temp was until I plugged the carb vent hose that comes out behind the drivers seat. I read where a mechanic suggested to do it so I gave it a try and it starts a heck of a lot easier, just stick a bolt in the hose and leave it, give it a try.

'07 Prowler 650 H1 XT, L.E.D. stop/turn signals, Summit Racing heater, AC winch, AC windshield, soft cab & doors, 6' Eagle Plow, oil gauge, Maxxis MT-762 truck tires, AC Fender Flares, E-Brake alarm, Yutrax UTV Jump Seat, Dynatek CDI
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 10:11 AM
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Welcome to the site! I used to have to crank mine over several times to get it to start no matter what the temp was until I plugged the carb vent hose that comes out behind the drivers seat. I read where a mechanic suggested to do it so I gave it a try and it starts a heck of a lot easier, just stick a bolt in the hose and leave it, give it a try.
Do what Mike said here and plug your carb vent line to help with starting. It made a big difference with mine as well. I'm not aware of an accelerator pump on the carb. Just the vacuum pulse fuel pump that feeds it. As far as brakes go, I would bleed it like RD mentioned. You also might put in some dot 5.1 brake fluid for a higher boiling point for less fading. And that is 5.1, NOT 5.0. 5.0 is not compatible with our machines, but 5.1 is. The rear brake on these things suck. I was so tired of the noise on mine that I just eliminated it and went to 4 wheel disc brakes all the way around. However, that option can get pricey if you don't find the right deals.

Name: Shane

-2011 Polaris RZR-4 800 (SOLD)
-1999 Polaris Sportsman 500 ATV
-2006 AC Prowler 650XT (SOLD)-- updated bevel gears, updated oil pump driven gear, 4 wheel disc brakes, line lock E-brake, Papa Slap clutch, Xentec HID's, Dynatek CDI, Warn skid plates, Intellitronix gauges, 2010 intake/cvt duct work and dust shield, RZR seats, Bestop folding windshield, full cab kit, rear cage and rear seats (4 seater)
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-18-2014, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukimon View Post
New owner here and though I've only had my machine for right at a week I have found a couple issues that I hope you guys could help me with. First is kind of minor and I figure I know what it is, but this thing is hard to start cold. It's as if the choke isn't working. I can pump the throttle about six times and it will try then two more and it starts. This is after sitting for 24 hours in 30* weather so its cold. I figure the choke doesn't work or isn't working properly. Also it looks as if there is an accelerator pump on the drivers side of the carb as viewed from the drivers seat but there is no rod connected to it. Shouldn't there be?

Second is I went for a little ride on Sat with my daughter and after a long ride downhill, approximately .75 to 1 mile long of gravel road, I went to ease on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. I immediately hit it again and it was perfect. I noticed that if I did not touch it for about 20 seconds it would drop to the floor but a second push would bring it back. I eased down the road about another mile and all was good and has been since. I guess I put 20-30 miles on it before this happens with no issues whatsoever until this. It wasn't like the master cylinder was bypassing, in the sense like they do if you hold steady pressure on it, more like there was nothing connected to it at all. This puzzles me greatly and worries me too cause I want to let my kids ride it and by themselves. I checked that the rear caliper was tight as I thought I could hear a rattling noise from back there when tapping the pedal but it's good.

Any help would be appreciated!
As for as the rear brake chatter the Rhino's had the same problem,some of the members have replaced the rotor and used EBC brand brakes,and helped the chatter,I also did what outwest did went to 4-wheel disc.$$$$$$

2015 A/C Sport,With a few add ons..........
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-19-2014, 04:37 AM Thread Starter
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Ok guys, thanks for the replies! I will plug the vent hose this evening after I get home from work and see if it helps. Don't completely understand why the vent would help with starting, but if I have learned anything in my time on this Earth it is that weird things happen.

As for the brakes, I don't feel that I experienced brake fade cause I really wasn't using the brakes at all. This long downhill stent that we were on was not real steep and therefore I let the engine do 90% of the work. If the brakes faded from no more than I used them, then this system is complete junk. I also don't think it's air but will give them a good bleed anyways. Thing is, I can go out there right now and the pedal will be rock solid and high and I haven't touched it since Sun night. This was an isolated incident that occurred only going downhill. This is what scares me and puzzles me. "If" there's air in the system, I may not get it on flat ground cause it apparently shows up when the tail is higher than the nose. I actually may have to pull the rear caliper off and use a block of wood inside to bled it like I have in the past with so many atv's that put the bleeder in the wrong place. lol

Little background on me....36 years old. ASE certified tech who worked for Mitsubishi, Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep, Hyundai, GM and I am currently with GM as an assistant service manager. I got tired of the electrical problems that today's vehicles are plagued with so about 3years ago I had the opportunity to take a desk job and here I am. I've been working on cars since I was 17 professionally, but working on engines since I was around 10-11. At 12 I put valves in a Yamaha XT250 by myself, but that's another story. lol.

Either way guys, I appreciate your help and will give all this a shot and let you know what comes of it. I also plan to be on the board a bit to gain some more knowledge nd try to help where I can. ;-)
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-19-2014, 05:17 AM
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Great to hear! Look forward to hearing from you on the forum. Hearing about your background is helpful, I myself came out of a Plant Engineering job at a Hospital Network (Spectrum Health), my dad worked at a Pontiac Dealer, and taught me a lot about automobiles! Then Hot Rodding bite me, and its been a ball ever since! I'm retired and 68, but love the ATV/UTV world!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-19-2014, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukimon View Post
Ok guys, thanks for the replies! I will plug the vent hose this evening after I get home from work and see if it helps. Don't completely understand why the vent would help with starting, but if I have learned anything in my time on this Earth it is that weird things happen.

As for the brakes, I don't feel that I experienced brake fade cause I really wasn't using the brakes at all. This long downhill stent that we were on was not real steep and therefore I let the engine do 90% of the work. If the brakes faded from no more than I used them, then this system is complete junk. I also don't think it's air but will give them a good bleed anyways. Thing is, I can go out there right now and the pedal will be rock solid and high and I haven't touched it since Sun night. This was an isolated incident that occurred only going downhill. This is what scares me and puzzles me. "If" there's air in the system, I may not get it on flat ground cause it apparently shows up when the tail is higher than the nose. I actually may have to pull the rear caliper off and use a block of wood inside to bled it like I have in the past with so many atv's that put the bleeder in the wrong place. lol

Little background on me....36 years old. ASE certified tech who worked for Mitsubishi, Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep, Hyundai, GM and I am currently with GM as an assistant service manager. I got tired of the electrical problems that today's vehicles are plagued with so about 3years ago I had the opportunity to take a desk job and here I am. I've been working on cars since I was 17 professionally, but working on engines since I was around 10-11. At 12 I put valves in a Yamaha XT250 by myself, but that's another story. lol.

Either way guys, I appreciate your help and will give all this a shot and let you know what comes of it. I also plan to be on the board a bit to gain some more knowledge nd try to help where I can. ;-)
That's great knowledge you have glad to have you on the site.The reason for the rear brake chatter on some of the prowlers is because it's on the drive line.If you reach back in there you can move the pads around and there always still rubbing the rotor even when not using the brakes.

2015 A/C Sport,With a few add ons..........
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Ok a little update. Mike and Shane, I plugged the vent/overflow line and I'll be darned if it didn't make it tons easier to start. Starts like EFI on a cold day now. Thanks for that. As for the brakes, hasn't happened again and that worries me bad.

I loaded it up last Sat and took it to the shop and did an oil change and looked it over well and couldn't find a single thing wrong other than a slight oil leak on the right side cover which I will fix when the weather gets better. The brakes are great at about half pad and no problems at all. This worries me cause I wanna let my kids ride it some by themselves and I can't unless it doesn't happen again for a very long time.
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 10:39 AM
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Glad it's working for you also, gotta love those cheap easy fixes.

'07 Prowler 650 H1 XT, L.E.D. stop/turn signals, Summit Racing heater, AC winch, AC windshield, soft cab & doors, 6' Eagle Plow, oil gauge, Maxxis MT-762 truck tires, AC Fender Flares, E-Brake alarm, Yutrax UTV Jump Seat, Dynatek CDI
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