I've bent one tie rod, but I knew that was going to happen as soon as the XTZ was airborne and I saw the landing spot, rutted badly, my bad for going too fast there, but other than that, I've jumped it and run it hard down whooped out sandwashes (up to 2ft deep whoops) at over 45mph. Nothing broken.
Now to tell you how I beefed mine. I bought the upper frame tube braces from UTVCrap, the A-Arm braces and after bending the one tie rod, installed the long jamnuts on the tie-rods.
Joes5091 is right though, these machines weren't built to do what we are doing with them, at least not to the extent that many of us are doing. I've seen several RZRs with their rear shock mounts buckled badly. I've seen a couple RZRs with the front frames bent behind the lower front A-arms.
And seeing your avatar photo, it appears you have either extended travel suspension or wheel spacers, which all greatly increase the leverages on the tie-rods and suspension/hub pieces. Just because a company sells something like long travel A-arms or wheel spacers, it doesn't mean that they will work perfectly or not change the forces on the rest of the chassis. From what I've seen, every brand has pretty flimsy A-arms and tie-rods from the factory, and some of the LT setups aren't much better.
I would say, start at your hubs and consider the forces against each piece from the hub to the frame. Start reinforcing as you can find weaknesses. Consider what you want the XTZ to do. Is it a sanddune/jumping machine, is it a slow, rock-crawling trail machine, is it a high-speed desert runner, etc... Then build it to meet your riding style.
Arctic Cat Prowler Desert Race XTZ: ITP BajaCross tires on ITP Beadlocks, Beard Super TZ Seats, Crowe 5pt harnesses, King Off-Road Racing Shocks, Custom Racing Chassis with 7 inch longer wheelbase, +5 Suspension set at 16 Front and 17 inches Rear inches travel, UTVINC did the tube bending
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