HELP! need tips on removing rear gearcase/axles HDX - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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HELP! need tips on removing rear gearcase/axles HDX

So I had broken rear axle mounts on my '11 hdx700 and had the welding shop fix them up better than new. Drove 20 feet out the door and it appears that the rear gear case( i want to call rear diff) is shot, loud clunking noises, appears a gear or 3 has striped some teeth. I want to take it out of the machine to work on it, since I already have the box off and need to save a little $ on labor. I know the 2 bolts that hold it in and the 4 to remove the driveshaft. What is the best way to take out the axles? Do you remove the hub completely or is there a way to just swing them out of the way? Does the gear case have to go out the bottom? IT appears to be the only way out. Sorry for the possibly dumb questions I am really hoping to get this thing going in 5 days again. THANKS!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 12:26 PM
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use your search button and go get the manual several threads have links , it's a free down load .. I don't have a bookmark link for you

name is Gary or hey you if ya forget

2009 Prowler XTZ , couple things added here and there
'83 CJ7 / SBC + whole lot added here and there
'01 Dodge / Cummins / Dually, a ton of stuff added here and there

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE NEWBIES ...
1. Bring in a good load of firewood for the pit
2. start the morning coffee , strong but not burnt / boiled down , IMPORTANT start it early as many of us old farts get up early !!
3. sit a spell and swap some lies with the best of us
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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OK so I have everything loose except the axle shafts. According to the manual and on here, the shafts with the white end which I have, you just put pressure inwards and they should pull out? I have done this but they are tight. Is there a specific place to pull on? how about pry on? The axles seem really loose inside the rubber boot, is there a way to tell that you are pushing in on the correct place? thanks again.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 04:53 PM
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Pushing in releases the axle retainer, and a quick. Snap/Pull should get it out. Inside the rubber boot is the inner c v joint, there will be quite a bit of movement with the joint, all normal. Drain the differential, and check for metal, I have a small magnet that fits inside the drain plug.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 05:07 PM
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Shop guy told me to just grab the axle shaft and push it in, and then yank back on it really hard. And not to worry about the joint or anything as it won't hurt it. I did it like this, and it popped right out.

Name: Shane

-2011 Polaris RZR-4 800 (SOLD)
-1999 Polaris Sportsman 500 ATV
-2006 AC Prowler 650XT (SOLD)-- updated bevel gears, updated oil pump driven gear, 4 wheel disc brakes, line lock E-brake, Papa Slap clutch, Xentec HID's, Dynatek CDI, Warn skid plates, Intellitronix gauges, 2010 intake/cvt duct work and dust shield, RZR seats, Bestop folding windshield, full cab kit, rear cage and rear seats (4 seater)
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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did you guys pull out the joint all the way to the gear case? there is no way that would work, I couldn't even get it to push in far enough. I pulled the shaft out of the cv boot on the first one, use a punch to push in the release in the grease then pry it out with a screwdriver. I ended up doing the same thing on the other side as there was no way i would get that pushed in as a complete assembly. I will have to replace the rubber boot clamps
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-20-2014, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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BTW the 10t pinion gear was ground off completely, filings-yes more glitter than a gentlemen s establishment, and no oil either, Not really sure where it went as there were no real wet spots, but it could have been dry when i got it as well-my fault on that one.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 04:42 AM
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Ouch! Hopefully the case is good, power sports nation, or eBay have complete differentials for around 350 dollars. I put one together with new gears, bearings, and seals for around 300 dollars.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 08:53 AM
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for the $$$ difference buy the e-bay one then build the old one and have a spare or one to sell to recoup the $$

name is Gary or hey you if ya forget

2009 Prowler XTZ , couple things added here and there
'83 CJ7 / SBC + whole lot added here and there
'01 Dodge / Cummins / Dually, a ton of stuff added here and there

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE NEWBIES ...
1. Bring in a good load of firewood for the pit
2. start the morning coffee , strong but not burnt / boiled down , IMPORTANT start it early as many of us old farts get up early !!
3. sit a spell and swap some lies with the best of us
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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WOW 350? both ebay and PSN have them(psn on ebay) for 750, not sure how recent you bought yours but 750 for an unknown gear case is not a good deal to me. Dealer can get brand new complete assembly for much less. Maybe he was giving me a deal since I gave them 3k 2 months ago for the engine. He might have given me a good deal on the individual parts too, but using their online prices it would have been $400 easy in parts alone. We'll see what the bill ends up at.
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