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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Removing the rear rotor

Ok guys I give up, how in the world do you remove the rear rotor on one of these things ? I tried everything except removing the knuckle from the rear diff because I wasn't sure if I needed to drain the diff first, you guys have given me the answer for everything else so far so I hope you can this time too lol....thanks in advance

2010 Prowler 700 XTX H1 EFI Camo, full windshield, soft top, 2" Highlifter lift, 28" Swamplites, Bear Claw XD brake pads
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 4508js View Post
Ok guys I give up, how in the world do you remove the rear rotor on one of these things ? I tried everything except removing the knuckle from the rear diff because I wasn't sure if I needed to drain the diff first, you guys have given me the answer for everything else so far so I hope you can this time too lol....thanks in advance
If your talking about the one on the diff. you got to take off rear drive shaft or pull the diff.

Rob
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 03:17 AM
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If it is like the front, the drive shaft has splines (somewhat rounded) to allow movement. I undid the bottom bolt on my differential to allow it to rotate. Didn't take a lot of movement. I worked at the engine end and by prying the driveshaft to the rear, and then pushing down it cleared the flange.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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I disconnected the drive shaft and pushed it back towards the diff and got some space but the rotor won't fit around the square end. So what you're saying is if I loosen the rear diff enough to slide it back a little the drive shaft will pull out at the knuckle ?

2010 Prowler 700 XTX H1 EFI Camo, full windshield, soft top, 2" Highlifter lift, 28" Swamplites, Bear Claw XD brake pads
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 10:21 AM
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Yes, it is a slip fit in the flange. If the flange needs to be removed you need to take off the pinion nut.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 11:06 AM
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I looked at it again, unbolt the flange, take the upper bolt out of the differential mount, raise the driveshaft& flange from the motor, once clear the flange will slip off, and the drive shaft will also slip out of the rear. I undid the clamps on the rubber boot and pushed the boot towards the center of the drive shaft. I was able to reuse the small clamps, but ended up with zip ties in place of the large clamps.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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OK thanks a ton for the help, I have to work tonight and tomorrow but I'll work on it Friday.

2010 Prowler 700 XTX H1 EFI Camo, full windshield, soft top, 2" Highlifter lift, 28" Swamplites, Bear Claw XD brake pads
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 02:53 PM
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Keep us posted on how it went!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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OK so here's the deal, a couple months ago I bought an Evo Powersports rotor to put on the rear of the Prowler because there was an easy 1/4" of brake pad that was not even on the rotor that was on the Prowler already. I measured the current rotor at 7 3/4" and the Evo one measured 8" when I got it so I was all excited that everything was going to workout, well I attempted to take the rear rotor off and couldn't figure it out so I started this thread asking for help. Well it appeared that the center of the Evo rotor would fit around the linkage between the two driveshafts so I tried and it did so in my mind I'm thinking whoo hoo I've got this now, so I take out the cutting wheel and cut the old rotor off instead of going through all the trouble of taking the driveshaft out. Once it's out of the way I ease the Evo rotor up to the knuckle and put the first bolt in then I realize....this rotor has a different bolt pattern DOH !!!! That's right it is for the Wildcat knuckle and will not fit my Prowler so after a few non children friendly words I decide to just keep the Evo rotor for a spare and or future brake upgrade for my Wildcat and I get on Country Cat and order the AC rotor that is called for on my model Prowler. Weeeellllll it arrives today and it's neither 8"s nor 7 3/4"s....it's 6 3/4"s and I'm not very happy because instead of getting a rotor that I think is going to fill the whole pad is now ONE INCH SMALLER then I began with !!!! I call Country Cat and after speaking with a very helpful gentleman and running a few part numbers on the two AC rotors I have on the bench it is discovered that the original rotor that was on the machine is a Prowler 1000 xtz rotor that the previous owner had put on and the rotor that I ordered is in fact the correct rotor for the 700. SO all that being said I now have the correct rotor for my machine but I have now gone from 1/4" of my brake pad not being on the rotor but now only about half of the brake pad will be on the rotor......could somebody please look at their rear rotor and brake pads and tell me if this is how it is supposed to be PLEASE !?!? In my mind I feel like the full pads are supposed to be on the rotor but if I'm wrong somebody please tell me before I start modifying the mounting bracket to make the full pad touch the rotor. I looked at the 1000 xtz bracket and it has the same part number as the 700 bracket so getting a new bracket isn't going to fix anything. Sorry for the long rant and post, any help as always will be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks guys

2010 Prowler 700 XTX H1 EFI Camo, full windshield, soft top, 2" Highlifter lift, 28" Swamplites, Bear Claw XD brake pads
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 03:34 PM
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I have the same machine, my entire pad contacts the rotor.
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2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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