Clutch kit for 30" Bighorns - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch kit for 30" Bighorns

What clutch upgrade do you guys recommend for 30" Bighorns?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 03:25 PM
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I use the EPI Utility Clutch, and love it. I spoke with EPI and they made suggestion's regarding a clutch. Over size tires were a consideration, and they suggested going down two grams per inch of tire increase. You should have the Red (19gram) rollers in your machine, I'd try it as is, it may surprise you!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairmont79 View Post
I use the EPI Utility Clutch, and love it. I spoke with EPI and they made suggestion's regarding a clutch. Over size tires were a consideration, and they suggested going down two grams per inch of tire increase. You should have the Red (19gram) rollers in your machine, I'd try it as is, it may surprise you!
Yeah, I am already rolling on the tires. I just feel like there is power/gearing left on the table.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 02:25 AM
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I like that cage, too bad it won't do much for me in the winter..



Tim

2010 A/C XTZ with some "Stuff" SOLD
But still here everyday to contribute to the cause
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 04:53 AM
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That is a sharp looking machine! Clutching is the best bang for the buck!

CLUTCH INFO

white rollers-17 gram = AC# 3402-366
red rollers = 19 grams = 6000RPM AC # 0823-164
blue rollers = 21 grams = 5500RPM AC # 0823-167
green rollers = 23 grams = 5000RPM AC # 0823-170
white rollers = 25 grams - 4500RPM AC # 3402-483
grey rollers 28 grams - AC # 0823-295
black rollers 33 grams AC # 0823-298

17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482
25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298


These RPM numbers associated with each set of weights is only a close guess. every machine will respond differently depending on altitude, tire size, and power adders. the more power you have, the heavier roller you can run for a faster upshift, and more RPMs. if i were you with that power you have, i would run the reds at the LEAST, and possibly even lighten up a set to get them even lighter. in the dunes to run ballz out, about 17-18 grams is where an H1 motor needs to be, and my stage 2 fixed plate work even helps the shiftout even more. it helps keep the rollers lower in the shiftout range, keeping you in a lower gear longer, but allowing you to build the RPMs you need for power, which allows the engine to rev into the power band, and not upshift too fast and bog the motor down.
__________________
///AIRDAM clutch machining
< Airdam Clutches - For People Who Want to Go Fast! >

________________________________________
Info.. From Airdam post in one of my thread's

C-1 is 34 degrees of preload on the spring so yeah its a little more than the others here is a graph to show it all to you


with the helix facing upwards, you turn the top movable sheave clockwise, tightening the spring up giving the spring a pre-load to snap the clutch closed.

the A,B,C settings are incremental in 1,2,3,4 hole positions on the helix itself. meaning if you leave the spring in the

B position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 16 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 38 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 70 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 92 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe


A position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 25 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 58 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 88 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 106 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (almost impossible to get it around to line up spring is too stiff)


C position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 34 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 69 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 93 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 120+ degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (couldn't get it around there so i am only guessing)


so every time you go up a hole, you are adding more twist to the spring, increasing the spring rate which gives you a faster and snappier backshift. i wish i had a spring load device that would allow me to clock the spring giving it more twist and compress it at the same time to see the increase in spring rate but i do not have that ability. for anyone who has dealt with their own clutch you will know that B-4 is SUPER hard to twist the sheave around and get lined up to, because it is super hard to reach. you can see by the degree of twist on the spring, you can calculate what rate would give you the correct spring tension you want. obviously B-1 is the softest setting you can have, and they go up from there. i'll try and make a list of the softest setting to the stiffest setting for you guys just curious.


B-1 -- 16 degrees
A-1 -- 25 degrees
C-1 -- 34 degrees
B-2 -- 38 degrees
A-2 -- 58 degrees
C-2 -- 69 degrees
B-3 -- 70 degrees
A-3 -- 88 degrees
B-4 -- 92 degrees
C-3 -- 93 degrees
A-4 -- 106 degrees
C-4 -- 120+ degrees
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2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 05:29 AM
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I've found that the stock rollers do a great job! Compared to after market they are about half the cost. Offsetting that for the aftermarket, is you can by outer covers for the same price as stock AC rollers once you have the sleeves. I change rollers once a year due to flat spotting, never have I noticed any change in performance.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairmont79 View Post
I've found that the stock rollers do a great job! Compared to after market they are about half the cost. Offsetting that for the aftermarket, is you can by outer covers for the same price as stock AC rollers once you have the sleeves. I change rollers once a year due to flat spotting, never have I noticed any change in performance.
Spoke to Griffin Performance (not sure if that's good or bad) and he said "Just change the secondary spring to an EPI White SZ14" and it will help tremendously.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 03:00 PM
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Sounds right! Check with EPI if in doubt, they are good to work with.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHMG View Post
What clutch upgrade do you guys recommend for 30" Bighorns?
What are you running for a lift kit! My 28's rub the floorpan when turning hard and hitting big ass bumps.

'09 650XT H1, 72" Eagle Plow, Warn 3500 Winch. Dyna CDI box, UNI filters, A/C V-bag and console, EPI lift kit, Highlifter springs, Scat ProCar suspension seats. Rick the Rockets A frame and shock bushings. 28x12X14 Raceline Bruisers on Vision rims, on all corners. Cowling heat vents. Factory heat and defrost. RD's custom alternator kit. XTZ hood scoop and front shocks. Monster shock covers, turn signals. OEM glass sport windshield, sliding rear window, and lights, lights and more lights!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
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Yeah, I am already rolling on the tires. I just feel like there is power/gearing left on the table.
very nice cage.......did you measure your tires,most 30'' bighorns measure 28'' tall.....

2015 A/C Sport,With a few add ons..........
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