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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Rattle at 15 to 20

So I have an annoying rattle it comes on above 15 and gone by 20 in high gear. I have read about loose heat shields, broken muffler mounts, trashed muffler internals, and one way bearings. Any one targeted the exact source that could occur at that speed?

How much of a pita is it to remove the one way bearing? And will I loose all of my engine braking?

Thanks folks!


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:10 PM
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My tailgate was, I greased the rubber tailgate stops and it went away. Long shot if that's your rattle, but ya never know.

'09 650XT H1, 72" Eagle Plow, Warn 3500 Winch. Dyna CDI box, UNI filters, A/C V-bag and console, EPI lift kit, Highlifter springs, Scat ProCar suspension seats. Rick the Rockets A frame and shock bushings. 28x12X14 Raceline Bruisers on Vision rims, on all corners. Cowling heat vents. Factory heat and defrost. RD's custom alternator kit. XTZ hood scoop and front shocks. Monster shock covers, turn signals. OEM glass sport windshield, sliding rear window, and lights, lights and more lights!
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 05:19 AM
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Removing the one way bearing is recommended if you plow, or pull heavy loads. There will be a loss of engine braking. I removed mine and still have engine braking except below 10 mph. It did eliminate a lot of driveline noise. You have to pull the clutch covers, clutch and belt (primary/secondary clutches), and the inner cover. The one way sits on the wet clutch hub and slips off.
You will have to drain the oil also. I'm not that familiar with the 1000, but in order to remove the covers the gas tank has to be moved out of the way. BTW K&T Lawn equipment has free download service manuals

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Removing the one way bearing is recommended if you plow, or pull heavy loads. There will be a loss of engine braking. I removed mine and still have engine braking except below 10 mph. It did eliminate a lot of driveline noise. You have to pull the clutch covers, clutch and belt (primary/secondary clutches), and the inner cover. The one way sits on the wet clutch hub and slips off.
You will have to drain the oil also. I'm not that familiar with the 1000, but in order to remove the covers the gas tank has to be moved out of the way. BTW K&T Lawn equipment has free download service manuals
Thanks RD, I downloaded that manual as soon as the machine was home. The dealership I bought this from refreshed the clutch and put a new belt in it as it was very weak and high gear felt like low gear. I am wondering if the one way was on its way out then because the PO only plowed and used this for hunting camp runs. I am going to check all bolts in the exhaust system but I am willing to bet it is the one way bearing.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 08:43 AM
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Mine had a 'tingly' rattle and I quickly found out it was the muffler heat shield. I removed the heat shield and installed isolating tape on the bottom of the bed to replace it.

Now I still have a rattle at the same speed you have. I have figured out its the box joint. There is a metal strip in the center of the box/bed that joins the 2 half together. Once temps warm up, I will take it apart and re-install with a bead of silicone to hopefully get rid of the rattle.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 09:46 AM
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another thing you'll find these are heat generator machines [the XTZ's] and also very noisy in passenger compartment , in my case the tranny alone will cause some hearing loss [not really but it's damn loud]

many good ways to install heat barriers on ALL passenger compartment walls facing the engine compartment , many of us have the engine cover Dynamated but that's not enough [in my case anyway] ... I got some thermo insulation to install on all those surfaces [not yet installed] same stuff they make turbocharger covers out of ... also don't put your dogs in the bed as you'll burn their feet pads badly as it's VERY HOT floor there .. the heat barrier I just spoke of I'll be adding there as I do take the fur family on rides too. I found this out after a ride that I took my Border Collie on right after I bought mine in 2009 , poor guy he wasn't going to get back in the box and I couldn't figure out why until I touched the floor of the box and damn near burnt my hand.

here is the product site I used
http://www.thermotec.com/stock-up-fo...20for%20spring

name is Gary or hey you if ya forget

2009 Prowler XTZ , couple things added here and there
'83 CJ7 / SBC + whole lot added here and there
'01 Dodge / Cummins / Dually, a ton of stuff added here and there

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE NEWBIES ...
1. Bring in a good load of firewood for the pit
2. start the morning coffee , strong but not burnt / boiled down , IMPORTANT start it early as many of us old farts get up early !!
3. sit a spell and swap some lies with the best of us

Last edited by GTroyer; 03-12-2017 at 07:57 AM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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another thing you'll find these are heat generator machines [the XTZ's] and also very noisy in passenger compartment , in my case the tranny alone will cause some hearing loss [not really but it's damn loud]

many good ways to install heat barriers on ALL passenger compartment walls facing the engine compartment , many of us have the engine cover Dynamated but that's not enough [in my case anyway] ... I got some thermo insulation to install on all those surfaces [not yet installed] same stuff they make turbocharger covers out of ... also don't put your dogs in the bed as you'll burn their feet pads badly as it's VERY HOT floor there .. the heat barrier I just spoke of I'll be adding there as I do take the fur family on rides too. I found this out after a ride that I took my Border Collie on right after I bought mine in 2009 , poor guy he wasn't going to get back in the box and I couldn't figure out why until I touched the floor of the box and damn near burnt my hand.
Oh yeah the heat was felt even on a cold and wet late February northern PA wilds ride. The non-vented windshield likes to fog up something fierece when hitting water crossings and puddles! I have a roll of under hood heat/sound material coming for the engine cover and if any are left over I am going to put it on the seat mount covers as well. Don't mind the noise just hate a odd rattle at a specific speed!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 03:28 PM
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I used dynamat, and that helped the doghouse greatly, installed heat shields over the exhaust, under the bed, and behind the seat area. This also contributed to reducing the heat. Snorkles were added to move the clutch air out to a better location. This is on a 700 so a lot of it is different, but you get the idea! Removing the one way was done as a test, but after running it without one I liked it better! If I blip the throttle below 10 mph, I can get some engine braking.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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I used dynamat, and that helped the doghouse greatly, installed heat shields over the exhaust, under the bed, and behind the seat area. This also contributed to reducing the heat. Snorkles were added to move the clutch air out to a better location. This is on a 700 so a lot of it is different, but you get the idea! Removing the one way was done as a test, but after running it without one I liked it better! If I blip the throttle below 10 mph, I can get some engine braking.
Well we may ride next weekend but that's up in the air and when mother nature figures out if she wants winter or spring here in the North East I might be able to tear her down but right now I cannot tear into it. I did read your tear down and feel its very doable with my skill level and tools I have. It really doesn't affect driveabiltiy at all other than 15 to 20 mph you have a ring/rattle occurring, get above or below that speed and just typical cvt noise along with a roaring vtwin.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2017, 05:02 AM
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Same weather here! I'm hoping it will warm up soon! Prowler is getting new clutch rollers, changed cam to a torque grind to see if it is any better on the trails.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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