I had a failure at over 50mph on mine while running a sandwash. Luckily, the wheel stayed somewhat in place and it just bent the hell out of my tierods before I could get stopped.
To fix it, I took a drill bit that was just slightly bigger than the OEM hole that the bolt goes through, drilled it and put in place a grade 8 caphead bolt (one size up from what was in OEM) that had threads only on the last portion and put a locknut on the back of it. That seems to hold it tighter and allows the smooth portion of the bolt to be in contact with the notched part of the balljoint stem. OEM setup has the threaded portion of the bolt in contact with the balljoint stem, which makes for a weak hold and allows the bolt threads to strip. Sorry, I don't have the machine near me right now so I can't say what size bolts I used and I've slept since then so my memory isn't so great.
Bi-Polar Race Team runs the same setup I believe. I've also talked with a few dealers that have had the same thing happen when they ran tracks on the ATVs. AC is aware of it happening and it would appear that it only happens in severe use cases such as my running high speed down 18" whoops and such.
Arctic Cat Prowler Desert Race XTZ: ITP BajaCross tires on ITP Beadlocks, Beard Super TZ Seats, Crowe 5pt harnesses, King Off-Road Racing Shocks, Custom Racing Chassis with 7 inch longer wheelbase, +5 Suspension set at 16 Front and 17 inches Rear inches travel, UTVINC did the tube bending
TEAM PROWLER NATION...