Intermittent Screeching Sound.......2010 1000 XTZ - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
Arctic Cat Prowler General Discussions General discussions pertaining to the Arctic Cat Prowler.

 19Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Paxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: SW Alberta Canada
Posts: 234
 
Garage
Intermittent Screeching Sound.......2010 1000 XTZ

Wow.......new issue today.........plowing a light snowfall and a screeching sound developed. Seems to be coming from the clutch side of the engine. Makes the almost hearing damaging noise intermittently In any gear, H/L/R, but will go away after moving for a bit in either direction. By intermittent I mean it's not constant. It's not a repeatable noise that changes it's speed or rate with rpm change. When rpm increases the noise gets louder, not faster...... if you understand what I'm saying... And sometimes does not make noise at all. The noise has been there at idle, more deafening at higher rpm. Shifting from forward to reverse is usually a challenge, needing to surge the machine just a bit (into the snow pile, or just a minute surge ahead) and shift to reverse as the rpm drops. Shifting from reverse to low is smooth. Lots of power, clutch seems to be engaging and disengaging properly. After having it screeching on and off for several minutes of use the sound went totally away as I went and parked it.

Wondering.........One way or not? Is there a bearing in the outer case that might go? Engine runs good. Sounds normal.

Hoping to pick some experienced and knowledgeable brains here!!

Thanks
Paxx

2010 Prowler 1000 XTZ Desert Red, hard top, Kolpin split front windshield, rear lexan window, RzR S bucket seats, 28" Swamp Lite tires, MotoAlliance Denali 72" Plow

I go by Paxx but you can call me anything you want......just don't call me late for supper!!
If you can't be good.......Be good at it!!!


http://www.northernliteaerocraft.com/
Paxx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-02-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Paxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: SW Alberta Canada
Posts: 234
 
Garage
I ask 'One way or not? ' because most of what I've read about the one way is a rattling sound, not a screech. This noise definitely sounds like a bad bad bearing of some sort. Not a belt squealing. It is a metal on metal-ish type of sound....

2010 Prowler 1000 XTZ Desert Red, hard top, Kolpin split front windshield, rear lexan window, RzR S bucket seats, 28" Swamp Lite tires, MotoAlliance Denali 72" Plow

I go by Paxx but you can call me anything you want......just don't call me late for supper!!
If you can't be good.......Be good at it!!!


http://www.northernliteaerocraft.com/
Paxx is offline  
post #3 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 04:25 AM
Senior Member
 
Diesel Racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NH
Posts: 799
 
One way bearing ? I believe there was an informational recall on removing it especially for people who tow heavy and / or plow.

Thoughts ?



Tim

2010 A/C XTZ with some "Stuff" SOLD
But still here everyday to contribute to the cause
Diesel Racer is offline  
 
post #4 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 04:38 AM
Administrator
 
Fairmont79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Kingman, AZ 86409
Posts: 7,111
 
AC issued a notice about removing the one way bearing in certain conditions, and snow plowing was one of them. There is a bearing in the outer clutch cover that supports the clutch hub, these have been known to fail, and could be your noise source! I usually bleep the throttle when shifting.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
Fairmont79 is offline  
post #5 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Paxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: SW Alberta Canada
Posts: 234
 
Garage
I had actually read that bulletin as well. Just not sure if what I'm hearing is indicative of a one way that has gone. Guess the only way I'm gonna know is to pull things apart. Ya, I thought I had read that there was a bearing in the clutch cover. RD....I also blip the throttle too, but as this noise has started it is harder to get it to shift into reverse, and is sometimes quite a struggle.

Now as I look at my XTZ it's looking like a guy has to remove the gas tank probably to get to the clutch. Does anyone know some tricks that save some time an headaches? Also, if it is the one way, is there a gasket on the inner cover the needs to be replaced? I'm sure I'll have more questions as I dive into it.

Thanks for the input Tim and RD!!

Paxx

2010 Prowler 1000 XTZ Desert Red, hard top, Kolpin split front windshield, rear lexan window, RzR S bucket seats, 28" Swamp Lite tires, MotoAlliance Denali 72" Plow

I go by Paxx but you can call me anything you want......just don't call me late for supper!!
If you can't be good.......Be good at it!!!


http://www.northernliteaerocraft.com/
Paxx is offline  
post #6 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 09:00 AM
Administrator
 
Fairmont79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Kingman, AZ 86409
Posts: 7,111
 
Gaskets are reusable if your careful. One way bearing failure will usually make your machine stall in gear, and if it fails at speed it will try and throw you through the windshield. Unfortunately on the XTZ the gas tank has to be moved/removed to access the clutch cover and remove them. As far as being difficult to get into and out of gears, you may be on an incline, or other means of loading the drivetrain. I take my cable off a couple of times a year t o see if it moves freely. Over 13,000 miles on mine now and still on the original cable, and have only had to adjust it twice! My internals on the transmission still look like new! I drain and inspect the oil and filter for any signs of metal, so far so good! Thinking about going to an aftermarket wet clutch shoes, not sure if Air Dam is still around!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
Fairmont79 is offline  
post #7 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Paxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: SW Alberta Canada
Posts: 234
 
Garage
Thanks again RD.......so just another quick question.....What should idle be set at after she's warmed up?

re clutch shoes......I don't have any knowledge (well.....I've read here and there) and don't really understand how different shoes, rollers etc affect the clutch. Wanna give me a clutches 101 rundown?

thanks again,
Paxx

2010 Prowler 1000 XTZ Desert Red, hard top, Kolpin split front windshield, rear lexan window, RzR S bucket seats, 28" Swamp Lite tires, MotoAlliance Denali 72" Plow

I go by Paxx but you can call me anything you want......just don't call me late for supper!!
If you can't be good.......Be good at it!!!


http://www.northernliteaerocraft.com/
Paxx is offline  
post #8 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 10:07 AM
Junior Member
 
cat_crazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 247
 
Garage
open that clutch cover asap. i had a screeching sound as well. my ac dealer said to keep driving it and it should go away. every time they would test it out, the sound wouldnt happen. well one day it happened. the screech got so bad it would not go away so i needed to be towed in. glad it was only half a mile but still. turned out something was in my clutch cover from the build. it took out my clutches.
here are some pics. it might not be this but i would hate to wait and find out. it sounded like fingernails on a chalkboard except way louder.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF2199.JPG
Views:	111
Size:	30.0 KB
ID:	46257   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF2203.JPG
Views:	116
Size:	29.2 KB
ID:	46265   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF2206.JPG
Views:	87
Size:	30.3 KB
ID:	46273   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF2209.JPG
Views:	126
Size:	26.9 KB
ID:	46281  

2012 700 Prowler HDX, re-routed intake, LXC cab with heat, HID headlights, tonneau box cover, Tusk TriloBite HD 8-Ply tires (27 inch), LED dome lights, Renegade Wicked Start RG30L-WS 600+ CCA Battery
cat_crazy is offline  
post #9 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 01:11 PM
Administrator
 
Fairmont79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Kingman, AZ 86409
Posts: 7,111
 
Air Dam at one point in time sold clutch shoes for the Prowlers that had more surface area, and less slip! 101 coming up!
The Prowler uses a wet clutch that helps the belt life as power is applied gradually as rpm's climb. The wet clutch has a stall speed of approx. 2,100 rpm. Once the wet clutch is transferring power to the primary clutch things start to happen! The CVT comes into play. As the primary starts to spin, the clutch rollers start to move the belt higher in the primary clutch, and lowering it in the secondary. The clutch is fine tuned with different weight rollers. I use heavy clutch rollers for street duty (grey 27 gram), lets me cruise at a decent clip without spinning the motor at high rpm. When I ride the sand dunes I use my facory rollers that are fairly light (red 19gram each) in order to keep the rpm up in the power band. For trail riding I use 21 gram rollers and a higher stall speed wet clutch setup. There has been several firms that made wet clutch delete kits, but they are somewhat expensive at 1,900 dollars! I have found that the factory rollers are about 1/2 the cost of aftermarket rollers.

CLUTCH INFO



red rollers = 19 grams = 6000RPM AC # 0823-164
blue rollers = 21 grams = 5500RPM AC # 0823-167
green rollers = 23 grams = 5000RPM AC # 0823-170
white rollers = 25 grams - 4500RPM AC # 3402-483
grey rollers 28 grams - AC # 0823-295
black rollers 33 grams AC # 0823-298

17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482
25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298


These RPM numbers associated with each set of weights is only a close guess. every machine will respond differently depending on altitude, tire size, and power adders. the more power you have, the heavier roller you can run for a faster upshift, and more RPMs. if i were you with that power you have, i would run the reds at the LEAST, and possibly even lighten up a set to get them even lighter. in the dunes to run ballz out, about 17-18 grams is where an H1 motor needs to be, and my stage 2 fixed plate work even helps the shiftout even more. it helps keep the rollers lower in the shiftout range, keeping you in a lower gear longer, but allowing you to build the RPMs you need for power, which allows the engine to rev into the power band, and not upshift too fast and bog the motor down.
__________________
///AIRDAM clutch machining
< Airdam Clutches - For People Who Want to Go Fast! >

________________________________________
Info.. From Airdam post in one of my thread's

C-1 is 34 degrees of preload on the spring so yeah its a little more than the others here is a graph to show it all to you


with the helix facing upwards, you turn the top movable sheave clockwise, tightening the spring up giving the spring a pre-load to snap the clutch closed.

the A,B,C settings are incremental in 1,2,3,4 hole positions on the helix itself. meaning if you leave the spring in the
Retired1 likes this.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
Fairmont79 is offline  
post #10 of 81 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Paxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: SW Alberta Canada
Posts: 234
 
Garage
Found the cause..... Wet Clutch...One Way Bearing

RD.......that is a great and clear explanation of clutches!!!! Most excellent!!. Thanks!!

So I pulled mamma's car out and pulled the prowler into the heated bay today and tore into her. Actually once a guy knows what needs to take off. it's not that bad a job to remove the seats, floor and move the tank........well, after i got the frozen ice/mud chipped out from around the tank and frame. I then put a jack under it and removed the rear tire and tilted the box to get better yet access. The outer cover came off easy. Belt and pulleys look brand new. The shaft steady bearing in the outer cover was in good shape. I started up the machine in neutral and revved her up and the clutch worked just great, but the noise was still coming from yet inside. So off came the primary and secondary's and then drained the oil. No filings on the magnet, but oil was a bit dark!!! Then removed the inner cover, and then the wet clutch cover......... Aahhhhhhh........very very interesting. A bunch of things. The one-way bearing fell apart on removal. So at least that was one thing. But I had some intuition that something was going on in the wet clutch. Not sure what triggered the thought, but when I went to put a socket on the LH nut, it came off by hand......Totally Loose!!!! There is obvious wear on the wet clutch and the housing that it spins, that it had been loose and wearing on parts it's not meant to touch.The sides of the Wet clutch itwlef were raw and rough from spinning against things as well as the actual shoes are almost unrecognizable. I wonder how a nut meant to be torqued at 221 ft lbs. and loctite would be finger loose??

Good news is I was able to turn the housing (with the output shaft attached) in my lathe and make things like new again.Needed to turn it down about .025". Not as bad as I thought. I do need to replace the wet clutch though. It's very battered up. Found a few on eBay that look to be in decent shape. Will probably go that route. And obviously I will NOT be replacing the one way!!

Thanks to incredible amount of info I have received here, and info that has accumulated here over the years, I was more than confident to tackle this and know that I'd find the issues.

Oh, RD......btw the rollers in my clutch's drive pulley are the green ones. They look brand new!!

The bad news......... Mamma's nice enclosed warm parking place is not available for her vehicle till parts come!!!! I'll be busy knocking off the 'Honey Do' list to stay in the good graces!!! I do have to say though that mamma, who was not keen at all about this machine acquisition, actually came out yesterday as I was plowing and rode with me for a bit (before the screeching noises started) as I pushed a bit of snow.........and she was impressed and quite enjoyed herself!! All in all.....I'm a little surprised that she doesn't really seem all that put out that I'm taking up her garage space. She wants it fixed and working well!!!

Some random pics of some of today's findings:

pic of One Way bearing as it came out


2 pics of the Wet Clutch.....doesn't capture the damage.....




Pics of the clutch housing inside....the before grooves and after cleanup on my lathe




Retired1 and Firecat like this.

2010 Prowler 1000 XTZ Desert Red, hard top, Kolpin split front windshield, rear lexan window, RzR S bucket seats, 28" Swamp Lite tires, MotoAlliance Denali 72" Plow

I go by Paxx but you can call me anything you want......just don't call me late for supper!!
If you can't be good.......Be good at it!!!


http://www.northernliteaerocraft.com/

Last edited by Paxx; 03-03-2018 at 09:21 PM.
Paxx is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58