Carb primer pull tab - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Carb primer pull tab

After 5 years of playing with this idea I finally did it. After sitting for a few days, my fuel system always drains the fuel back to the tank. Makes it hard to start. Plugging the vent line helps, but its not a real fix. I installed a fuel check valve in the fuel line a few weeks ago, but at high engine RPM's, the fuel flow couldn't keep up. The check valve was to restrictive. So I pulled it out. Replaced the cut fuel hose with a new one. So its all back to stock.
Next...
I located the carb fuel primer. Its under the carb. See pic 1, 2 and 3 for location. I have the zip tie through it.
Run the zip tie down through spaces in the motor where it won't interfere with anything.
Drill a 1/4" hole through your engine cover, straight line shot to the lower inner right corner.
Pop the zip tie through the cowl (use a 2nd zip tie if you need extra length).
Pop the end of the zip tie though the hole you drilled.
Now, just give that zip tie a few little tugs before you start your engine. It will fire right up, by priming the carb.

If its cold outside, floor the gas pedal once, with the key on, to set the electric choke. Pull that zip tie a few times and try starting it. if it doesn't go, just pull the zip tie a few more times. Don't pull it too much, because it will flood the engine.
Fixed my hard start problem. Should fix yours, too!
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Fairmont79 likes this.

'09 650XT H1, 72" Eagle Plow, Warn 3500 Winch. Dyna CDI box, UNI filters, A/C V-bag and console, EPI lift kit, Highlifter springs, Scat ProCar suspension seats. Rick the Rockets A frame and shock bushings. 28x12X14 Raceline Bruisers on Vision rims, on all corners. Cowling heat vents. Factory heat and defrost. RD's custom alternator kit. XTZ hood scoop and front shocks. Monster shock covers, turn signals. OEM glass sport windshield, sliding rear window, and hardtop.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 08:58 PM
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I'm glad you posted this. I added a check valve years ago to try to fix the starting problem and kind of forgot about it. I also had mine just shut down every now and then when wide open and left me baffled. It acted like it was out of fuel and I had to sit and crank it a while to get it going again, I thought it might have been a float sticking. That check valve may have been my problem, it didn't happen often but I think I'm going to take it off.
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'07 Prowler 650 H1 XT, L.E.D. stop/turn signals, Summit Racing heater, AC winch, AC windshield, soft cab & doors, 6' Eagle Plow, oil gauge, Maxxis MT-762 truck tires, AC Fender Flares, E-Brake alarm, Yutrax UTV Jump Seat, Dynatek CDI
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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Happened to me right away, Mike. I wanted to take the Prowler to work the night after I installed the check valve and going up hill, WOT, the carb ran out of gas. I let off the throttle and it picked up. Knew it was the check valve, because I just put it in. I though it was perty restrictive when I blew though it after I got it. Sure as heck, it was. I stuck it on my old John Deere mower and its fine for it, but something that needs more fuel flow... nope. Do the zip tie on the primer.... Takes about 3 minutes, once the interior is out. Works!
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'09 650XT H1, 72" Eagle Plow, Warn 3500 Winch. Dyna CDI box, UNI filters, A/C V-bag and console, EPI lift kit, Highlifter springs, Scat ProCar suspension seats. Rick the Rockets A frame and shock bushings. 28x12X14 Raceline Bruisers on Vision rims, on all corners. Cowling heat vents. Factory heat and defrost. RD's custom alternator kit. XTZ hood scoop and front shocks. Monster shock covers, turn signals. OEM glass sport windshield, sliding rear window, and hardtop.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 08:30 AM
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Quick, easy, and affordable! Win Win! Just love it!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 01:39 PM
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Your post is an absolute life saver for me. I have a 2007 Prowler H1 that I acquired used a couple years ago. It isn't pretty to look at but mechanically was sound but it has always been so hard to start. Finally last fall I couldn't get it started at all so it sat for the last eight months over the winter unused. I thought I would have to haul it into a shop to have it serviced. All this time I never understood why it would not have a manual choke so it wasn't until I came across your post that I discovered that it indeed does. And guess what? After a quick battery charge, I choked it and it started on the first crank! Woo hoo! Back in the game. THANK YOU!
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 02:49 PM
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I know is an older post but it made me think about the same kind of issues I had several years back with a 2006 Rhino. It would quit on us ,hard as hell to start, etc etc. One thing I did was add a primer bulb from a boat. That helped. I also ran the fuel lines higher up ,that sorta helped. Put on a new fuel pump, worked great. Had the valves adjusted, installed a new battery, the damn thing ran great. The fuel pump and valves were the main deal though.
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