Clutch kits are about the best performance upgrade you can make. Several things come to mind, Do you by chance have a leaking oil seal on the clutch housing?
CLUTCH INFO
red rollers = 19 grams = 6000RPM AC # 0823-164
blue rollers = 21 grams = 5500RPM AC # 0823-167
green rollers = 23 grams = 5000RPM AC # 0823-170
white rollers = 25 grams - 4500RPM AC # 3402-483
grey rollers – 28 grams - AC # 0823-295
black rollers – 33 grams AC # 0823-298
17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482
25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298
These RPM numbers associated with each set of weights is only a close guess. every machine will respond differently depending on altitude, tire size, and power adders. the more power you have, the heavier roller you can run for a faster upshift, and more RPMs. if i were you with that power you have, i would run the reds at the LEAST, and possibly even lighten up a set to get them even lighter. in the dunes to run ballz out, about 17-18 grams is where an H1 motor needs to be, and my stage 2 fixed plate work even helps the shiftout even more. it helps keep the rollers lower in the shiftout range, keeping you in a lower gear longer, but allowing you to build the RPMs you need for power, which allows the engine to rev into the power band, and not upshift too fast and bog the motor down.
__________________
///AIRDAM clutch machining
<
Home - Airdam Clutches >
________________________________________
Info.. From Airdam post in one of my thread's
C-1 is 34 degrees of preload on the spring so yeah its a little more than the others here is a graph to show it all to you
with the helix facing upwards, you turn the top movable sheave clockwise, tightening the spring up giving the spring a pre-load to snap the clutch closed.
the A,B,C settings are incremental in 1,2,3,4 hole positions on the helix itself. meaning if you leave the spring in the
B position and put it in the
#1 hole you twist the sheave 16 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 38 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 70 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 92 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
A position and put it in the
#1 hole you twist the sheave 25 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 58 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 88 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 106 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (almost impossible to get it around to line up spring is too stiff)
C position and put it in the
#1 hole you twist the sheave 34 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 69 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 93 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 120+ degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (couldn't get it around there so i am only guessing)
so every time you go up a hole, you are adding more twist to the spring, increasing the spring rate which gives you a faster and snappier backshift. i wish i had a spring load device that would allow me to clock the spring giving it more twist and compress it at the same time to see the increase in spring rate but i do not have that ability. for anyone who has dealt with their own clutch you will know that B-4 is SUPER hard to twist the sheave around and get lined up to, because it is super hard to reach. you can see by the degree of twist on the spring, you can calculate what rate would give you the correct spring tension you want. obviously B-1 is the softest setting you can have, and they go up from there. i'll try and make a list of the softest setting to the stiffest setting for you guys just curious.
B-1 -- 16 degrees
A-1 -- 25 degrees
C-1 -- 34 degrees
B-2 -- 38 degrees
A-2 -- 58 degrees
C-2 -- 69 degrees
B-3 -- 70 degrees
A-3 -- 88 degrees
B-4 -- 92 degrees
C-3 -- 93 degrees
A-4 -- 106 degrees
C-4 -- 120+ degrees