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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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diff rebuild problem

Just to recap: my spidergear pin came loose and generally made a mess of things. I welded in another pin, got a good used pinion gear, put new bearings on it and installed it in a new case. Everything else looked to be in excellent condition so I reused. The problem is once I lay the big bearing on top of the ring gear things start to bind up. If I go ahead and put the outer case on its nearly impossible to hand turn the pinion. I can't figure out if I need to shim differently with the new case, or if maybe the bearings are bad and hanging up. I would think if the bearings were bad it would be pretty obvious. I'm kinda leaning toward shimming being off or that bearing holder thing being warped and causing a bind.
When I lay the ring gear in the case, there isn't even a hair of freeplay between it and the pinion when you turn it. So maybe it needs to be shimmed out more?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansCat View Post
Just to recap: my spidergear pin came loose and generally made a mess of things. I welded in another pin, got a good used pinion gear, put new bearings on it and installed it in a new case. Everything else looked to be in excellent condition so I reused. The problem is once I lay the big bearing on top of the ring gear things start to bind up. If I go ahead and put the outer case on its nearly impossible to hand turn the pinion. I can't figure out if I need to shim differently with the new case, or if maybe the bearings are bad and hanging up. I would think if the bearings were bad it would be pretty obvious. I'm kinda leaning toward shimming being off or that bearing holder thing being warped and causing a bind.
When I lay the ring gear in the case, there isn't even a hair of freeplay between it and the pinion when you turn it. So maybe it needs to be shimmed out more?
yes,you will need to shim it out more until you get the correct freeplay,but if you changed the pinion gear you will probly havta shim both until you get it right.its too involved to explain here.you should down load and print that section of the manual.i assume you put the shim from your old pinion gear on your new one,that should at least get you started,so shim the carrier/ring gear thicker on the smaller brg until you get some freeplay,then use some thin grease or machinist die on ring gear teeth and turn the pinion to see the pattern,if its way off you`l havta shim the pinion in or out to get pattern where it needs to be then start over with shimming the ring gear.YES it is a pain in the ass,sorry.hope i helped
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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yes,you will need to shim it out more until you get the correct freeplay,but if you changed the pinion gear you will probly havta shim both until you get it right.its too involved to explain here.you should down load and print that section of the manual.i assume you put the shim from your old pinion gear on your new one,that should at least get you started,so shim the carrier/ring gear thicker on the smaller brg until you get some freeplay,then use some thin grease or machinist die on ring gear teeth and turn the pinion to see the pattern,if its way off you`l havta shim the pinion in or out to get pattern where it needs to be then start over with shimming the ring gear.YES it is a pain in the ass,sorry.hope i helped
I went ahead and ordered the whole range of bottom shims and 2 of the thinnest top shims, hope this will cover what I need. I don't see a pinion shim anywhere and don't remember seeing them when I took it apart? On a sad side note I called local dealers listed on the AC dealer locator and 3 were disconnected numbers and 2 had better things to do than help me. Not looking good for AC around here.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 06:21 PM
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there should have been a shim between the pinion gear and the big pinion brg.if you didnt have that brg off you wouldnt have seen it.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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there should have been a shim between the pinion gear and the big pinion brg.if you didnt have that brg off you wouldnt have seen it.
I'm probably losing my mind, but I just don't see that shim:
World of Powersports w/ SpeedSupplies.com's 2008ArcticCat ATV PROWLER XT (GREEN) [U2008P2S4BUSG] Parts Image
I also don't see how shimming there would help. Shimming there would push the pinion further out toward the ring gear making it tighter, but thats not possible (or helpfull) because of the way the case is made. I mean thats the way it looks to me and i'm frequently known to be wrong.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 08:37 PM
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when/if all else fails take it to a rear end shop with the manual print out so they can see the specs.

but TA is spot on with advise as to shims and setting up, not hard but time consuming .. and to make matters worse the bearings probably are a semi press fit so don't go on/off the pinion shaft very easy.. a good set up shop has bearings that the inner race is clearanced just a smidgeon to slide on off easy for fitment until a shim size is determined for final fit... however they may not have the size we use in these.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 09:27 PM
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you should use the shim that came on your original pinion gear as a starting point,thats the shim used to set up the orig gear to the case.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2010, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansCat View Post
I'm probably losing my mind, but I just don't see that shim:
World of Powersports w/ SpeedSupplies.com's 2008ArcticCat ATV PROWLER XT (GREEN) [U2008P2S4BUSG] Parts Image
I also don't see how shimming there would help. Shimming there would push the pinion further out toward the ring gear making it tighter, but thats not possible (or helpfull) because of the way the case is made. I mean thats the way it looks to me and i'm frequently known to be wrong.
it might b possible that you need a thinner pinion shim,which would help gain you clearance you need.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-21-2010, 08:29 PM
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you are correct,they dont show that shim in any of the prowler frt diff parts picts.i have not personally replace the pinion in a prowler frt diff,but i have done a few atv diffs. so i cant say for 100% that its there.but the diffs are the same as the atvs,so it mite be worth you while to press the brg off your old pinion to see if its there or not.if so use it as your starting point because it was used to set up from factory.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team arctic View Post
you are correct,they dont show that shim in any of the prowler frt diff parts picts.i have not personally replace the pinion in a prowler frt diff,but i have done a few atv diffs. so i cant say for 100% that its there.but the diffs are the same as the atvs,so it mite be worth you while to press the brg off your old pinion to see if its there or not.if so use it as your starting point because it was used to set up from factory.
I pulled my pinion out and a used pinion out of a mudpro diff and neither had the pinion shimmed. I'm going to get some of that paint for the gear teeth you mentioned and try it once my other shims come in. That would probably be the quickest way to see if my pinion needs to come back out and be shimmed or if its ok as is. Wonder if advanced auto has that gear stuff?
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