2010 XTZ Belt - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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2010 XTZ Belt

Grenaded my belt this weekend. It smoked pretty good Friday trying to climb a wall, but kept on going. So I rode with it. Then Sat hauling 70 down a rode it went bang.

250mi total on the Cat so far.

Took about 2hrs to change it. Kind of a pain in the ass pulling the floor and moving the gas tank. And the Muzzy's kinda hide 2 of the cover screws.

Question is what is the preference on a replacement belt, Arctic Cat or??

Also, anything special need to be done with the weights while I have it apart?

Probably take it apart again soon just to see if everythings ok.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 08:56 PM
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Yeah have done many belt changes. Engineers could have thought this one out better one would think. I would recommend using only the factory AC belts as many members have tried to save a few bucks and wish they could turn back time.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Yeah have done many belt changes. Engineers could have thought this one out better one would think. I would recommend using only the factory AC belts as many members have tried to save a few bucks and wish they could turn back time.
Cordless drill & hex bits + codless impact will make the next change a breeze. 1hr or so max I'd guess.

Saw the guys thread where he split the case. I just don't see that helping much.

Do I need to do anyting with the weights? Clean them up and go with it?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 09:30 PM
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I have the belt change down to 30 minutes now. I would just look them over and check for excessive wear from heat. Look at your fixed plate for any wear as well. Check the bearing in the cover, check shafts for excessive play, blow out all of the dust from the worn material and you are good to go. Be sure to line up the fixed plate splines with the primary shaft before you tighten the primary nut or you will be angry with yourself.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 09:31 PM
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Also make sure the arrow on the belt faces the proper direction.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 09:33 PM
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Sandchris pointed out to me that a lot of the forum members climb steep hills in high range when they should be in low. This could save many belts and a lot of time. Not telling anyone how to drive their Cat just something to think about before climbing a nasty hill.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-13-2011, 10:26 PM
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yup ive blown my share of belts too ! im the one that split my cover and it cuts belt changes down to 15 mins or less than 2 beers ! you need to make sure the movable half of the front clutch moves free on the shaft without the belt in it . dust and yuck can cause the primary clutch to stick and cause the belt to slip . thus building heat and causing the belt to smoke . if it geranded into a bijillion little pieces its generally caused by one of the clutches sticking . remove the secondary clutch and look at the spring and helix for signs of contactand rubbing .Adam / AIRDAM can help you out with that . the front clutch can generally be cleaned up with some electrical contact cleaner . the bushings in the movable half should be clean and dry .


since you have it apart you might want to swap out the roller weights to the red ones from the 700 and get your shift out rpms up a little higher . thats a whole other thread ......


check these things get a new AC belt thats what most recomend and have the best luck with .and you should be ready to run again . remember use low range when doing any kind of climbing and assing around . these XTZs will run almost 60 in low .
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-14-2011, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soazcat View Post
yup ive blown my share of belts too ! im the one that split my cover and it cuts belt changes down to 15 mins or less than 2 beers ! you need to make sure the movable half of the front clutch moves free on the shaft without the belt in it . dust and yuck can cause the primary clutch to stick and cause the belt to slip . thus building heat and causing the belt to smoke . if it geranded into a bijillion little pieces its generally caused by one of the clutches sticking . remove the secondary clutch and look at the spring and helix for signs of contactand rubbing .Adam / AIRDAM can help you out with that . the front clutch can generally be cleaned up with some electrical contact cleaner . the bushings in the movable half should be clean and dry .


since you have it apart you might want to swap out the roller weights to the red ones from the 700 and get your shift out rpms up a little higher . thats a whole other thread ......


check these things get a new AC belt thats what most recomend and have the best luck with .and you should be ready to run again . remember use low range when doing any kind of climbing and assing around . these XTZs will run almost 60 in low .
Good info thank you.

How do you get the 1 1/4" nut off with the gas tank still in? combo wrench? There's enough room to get the clutch/pulley out with the tank in? If these things go bang that easily, I may split my cover too.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-14-2011, 08:26 AM
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i changed a few things under there when i lowered my seats . i can get the rear clutch off with the tank in , but the flooor and tank have to come loose to remove the front clutch .

if i have to remove clutches the split cover doesnt help any really ..... i split it to be able to change belts quickly on the trail with out having to pull the floor or move the gas tank .
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