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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Question Front and rear Diff seal replacement

Hey guys, was wondering if someone could offer me a little help with replacing the left rear diff seal and front right diff seal.. I dont' know much about doing this so don't know if its very complicated or time consuming.. if someone has the time, maybe litte "step by step" on how to?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by AlmostxProwler View Post
Hey guys, was wondering if someone could offer me a little help with replacing the left rear diff seal and front right diff seal.. I dont' know much about doing this so don't know if its very complicated or time consuming.. if someone has the time, maybe litte "step by step" on how to?
What model do you have? Its pretty straight forward, the hardest part is breaking the big nut loose from the axle. Would be a good time to check wheel bearings while you are in there.
Pull wheel, pull brake caliper and hang out of the way (dont remove brakeline) To break that big nut loose I put lugs back on studs then wedge a long pry bar between 2 lugs down against the ground, heat big nut with torch then hit it with impact or long breaker. Take control arm pinch bolts out and spread with screwdriver, remove bottom shock bolt and swing up then remove hub. You can leave tierod attached and swing out of the way and hang up. Push axle in then give it a hard jerk out. Pry out old seal, then grease and tap in a new seal with seal driver. If you don't have a driver I made one from a piece of pvc pipe, 3'' I think. I cut a short piece then laid a piece of 2x4 over the end to hit with hammer.
I've read that people just remove pinch bolts, shock, caliper and tierod then jerk axle and all in one piece but I always take apart and check bearings.
There is a link to an online shop manual around here somewhere, maybe someone has a link and could correct/add to my post where needed. Good luck.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RyansCat View Post
What model do you have? Its pretty straight forward, the hardest part is breaking the big nut loose from the axle. Would be a good time to check wheel bearings while you are in there.
Pull wheel, pull brake caliper and hang out of the way (dont remove brakeline) To break that big nut loose I put lugs back on studs then wedge a long pry bar between 2 lugs down against the ground, heat big nut with torch then hit it with impact or long breaker. Take control arm pinch bolts out and spread with screwdriver, remove bottom shock bolt and swing up then remove hub. You can leave tierod attached and swing out of the way and hang up. Push axle in then give it a hard jerk out. Pry out old seal, then grease and tap in a new seal with seal driver. If you don't have a driver I made one from a piece of pvc pipe, 3'' I think. I cut a short piece then laid a piece of 2x4 over the end to hit with hammer.
I've read that people just remove pinch bolts, shock, caliper and tierod then jerk axle and all in one piece but I always take apart and check bearings.
There is a link to an online shop manual around here somewhere, maybe someone has a link and could correct/add to my post where needed. Good luck.
Thanks for the help, always apreciated .. I have a 2010 xtx. Sounds like something I'll be able to handle doing on my own.. when I put the axle back in is it just a matter of giving it a firm push to get it back in there?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AlmostxProwler View Post
Thanks for the help, always apreciated .. I have a 2010 xtx. Sounds like something I'll be able to handle doing on my own.. when I put the axle back in is it just a matter of giving it a firm push to get it back in there?
Yes it goes in pretty easy. Be sure to grease the seal lip and be careful not to damage.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Yes it goes in pretty easy. Be sure to grease the seal lip and be careful not to damage.
Cool, Thanks for all the tips! what type of grease should I use for this?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 01:17 PM
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Cool, Thanks for all the tips! what type of grease should I use for this?
I used whatevers been in my grease gun for the last 5 years. lol Not sure of the type, standard stuff.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I used whatevers been in my grease gun for the last 5 years. lol Not sure of the type, standard stuff.
Right on! I've gotta tackle this on the weekend so I can get rolling again.. looks like i'll be putting on some kind of additional venting at the same time.. have you found anything that works for you? my cat doesn't have very many miles on it and I don't want to have to keep doing this .. lol
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AlmostxProwler View Post
Right on! I've gotta tackle this on the weekend so I can get rolling again.. looks like i'll be putting on some kind of additional venting at the same time.. have you found anything that works for you? my cat doesn't have very many miles on it and I don't want to have to keep doing this .. lol
I doubled up on the accordian expansion tube things on the vent lines. As I recall there are a few threads on here if you do a search. A simple T in the line and an extra expansion boot worked wonders for me. Also make sure you have the right amount of gear oil in the diffs, about 1 inch below the fill hole.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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I doubled up on the accordian expansion tube things on the vent lines. As I recall there are a few threads on here if you do a search. A simple T in the line and an extra expansion boot worked wonders for me. Also make sure you have the right amount of gear oil in the diffs, about 1 inch below the fill hole.
Yeah, I was going to double up on the boots.. I have a the stuff at home to do it just didn't bother and it came back to bite me.. lol when i replace my seal on one side of the diff should I do the other or would the other side still be good?
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 04:48 PM
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I would say you should just do the one that is leaking.
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