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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Prowler won't start - make your bets!

So this past weekend, my 650 Prowler began to act up. It began almost immediately after passing through a 2" deep puddle. My wife is driving and after passing through the water the machine shut off. It would restart but would not stay at idle. Eventually got it moving and I chalked it up as a wet wire. For the next 20 minutes or so, the machine continued acting up, shutting off when she stopped, and lacking power when under load.

Managed to get back to my cabin, shut the machine off and after that it would not start.

The tinkering began (in a quick effort to make it run for the long weekend here in Canada).

To make a long thread short:

1. Changed out the plug cap, it looked corroded inside the wire end, so even if it wasn't the problem I thought it best to replace.
2. Trimmed the plug end of the coil wire back just a bit to make for a clean join between the new plug cap and the coil wire.
3. Checked the coil resistance, both primary and secondary, both within spec. (spark looked inconsistent and perhaps weak when the plug was grounded to the engine)
4. Installed new plug.

Cranked over for a bit, but seems to be lacking fuel.

1. Checked to see if the pump was pumping - it was.
2. Disassembled carb and cleaned with cleaner/compressed air.

Part of me is convinced it isn't a fuel issue, i've tossed a bit of gas in with the plug out and machine still won't start.

Will do some more troubleshooting later today......wondering if its the CDI??

Anyone hazard a guess? I intend to check the valve timing to make sure it hasn't slipped a tooth or two.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 08:24 PM
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Sorry to hear about your trouble. The stock CDI went out on mine earlier this year but it didn't just go from good to dead. It started backfiring a little, stuttering at high RPM's, and excessive cranking to start. It never fully died, I just upgraded the CDI and it all went away. Definetely sounds electrical to me. I think there's a thread on ArcticChat where someone outlined how to test the CDI and ohms at coil to verify ignition. Don't think this helps much..just a little input.

08 650xt
Big Bore Kit
Speedwerx Exhaust
1.5: Snorkels
Dyna FS Ignition
AMR Monster Coil
Highlifter 2in Lift
Highlifter 1in Wheelspacers
Custom Roll Cage
Trail Armor Doors
Intellitronix Oil, Temp, and Volt Gauges
RickTheRocket UHMW Bushings all around
Superwinch Terra 3500
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Daryle, that's the kind of input I'm looking for. The AC manual does have some limited test information on CDI testing, but ultimately it suggests swapping it with a known good CDI. Of course that would be simple if I had a spare!! I'll check that ArcticChat site and see what the test involves.

The way it behaved sort of reminded me of the way Dodge cars would go into the "limp" mode. When the Prowler stalled, you could restart it every time, but when the key was turned to off - restarting wasn't an option. I wouldn't have thought that AC would build that sort of a courtesy feature into a machine, but it sure is strange, and Dodge like. It must have stalled 6 or 8 times on the ride home, but once the key was turned off, it did nothing but turn over and over, not a sign of ignition.

Didn't get at it yesterday like I planned, but will definietely be at it today.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 05:20 AM
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Cool

let us know what you find out. my electric choke messed up while i was riding and it wouldnt idle,and wouldnt start until motor cooled down.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Problem found

Pulled the valve cover off and checked the valve timing. Chain slipped about 2 teeth, enough to keep it from starting and enough to keep it from pulling fuel into the engine.

Checked the tensioner once the timing was reset and it is fully extended when I reinserted it (5.5 turns out - released tension and it went 5.5 full turns in).

As a minimum a new chain is in order, and new guides too, not what I wanted to have to do right now, but I guess it could be worse.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 03:46 PM
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Cool

glad you found problem,how many miles on your prowler........

2015 A/C Sport,With a few add ons..........
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 05:28 PM
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Wow.. not at all what I would have expected! But great that you found the problem. It's not often a problem is solved so soon!

08 650xt
Big Bore Kit
Speedwerx Exhaust
1.5: Snorkels
Dyna FS Ignition
AMR Monster Coil
Highlifter 2in Lift
Highlifter 1in Wheelspacers
Custom Roll Cage
Trail Armor Doors
Intellitronix Oil, Temp, and Volt Gauges
RickTheRocket UHMW Bushings all around
Superwinch Terra 3500
Papa Slap Stage 3 Clutching with Fix Plate Mod
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Not sure on the mileage, bought the machine used and for whatever reason I can only view the trip meter . I believe it shows just under 3000 on the trip, undoubtedly more on the machine though.

I suspect that the machine would restart but not idle because at that point it had slipped only one tooth. Once we made it back to the cabin, it must have slipped another tooth, throwing the valve timing off enough to prevent it from starting.

Fuel wasn't being drawn into the engine with the valve timing off, hence the reason for no fuel showing up, actually I was seeing some fuel coming out of the intake side of the carb, which is part of the reason why I suspected valve timing. In addition it seemed to be turning over with a little more ease than it normally would.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 10:43 AM
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You don't hear of this often. How does the oil lubrication look like on the top end? Some of the 650's had oil pump drive gear problems.



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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-07-2012, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Top end looks fine otherwise. I had the engine done over a year ago now for bevel gear repairs and, in hindsight, probably should have paid the extra few bucks for the cam chain. Surprised that it's only $50. Wouldn't be surprised if I'm still seeing the effects of all those pieces of bevel gear scatterred throughout the engine.

To make matters worse, after the bevel gear repair was done, as near as I can figure, the piston rings went south, burned up the crank after it ran low on oil. Riddler had set me up with an old crank, and things had been good ever since, until now.

Anyway, parts are ordered and should get it fixed next week. I'm just glad that the engine doesn't have to come out for this repair!!

A warning for those of you who do the bevel gear repair, don't scrounge on replacement parts and clean everything thoroughly. I replaced most bearings, flushed oil lines, including the cooler, washed everything down in cleaning solvent and compressed air, etc..

Last edited by paradisedude; 09-07-2012 at 04:55 AM.
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