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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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More problems! Need more help!

Ok guys... Got my clutch housing and clutches back today. After installed I pulled my engine drain plug and aparently the A-hole that changed it last time cross threaded the dang oil plug in. So plug and strainer plate threads are screwed! I know I can change out that plate but 2 of the bolts are centered on a frame rail and about 2in above it. HOW THE HECK DO YOU GET THOSE OUT? Do I have to unhook and jack the engine up to remove 2 bolt? If so I'm going to hunt down the engineer that designed that and smack him!

08 650xt
Big Bore Kit
Speedwerx Exhaust
1.5: Snorkels
Dyna FS Ignition
AMR Monster Coil
Highlifter 2in Lift
Highlifter 1in Wheelspacers
Custom Roll Cage
Trail Armor Doors
Intellitronix Oil, Temp, and Volt Gauges
RickTheRocket UHMW Bushings all around
Superwinch Terra 3500
Papa Slap Stage 3 Clutching with Fix Plate Mod
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 05:04 PM
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I was going to pull that plate myself after rebuilding the motor and driving it a little bit to make sure there were no large broken pieces in there. But then I found the problem with access to the two screws that you mentioned. So I cancelled my plans of pulling that cover. It definitely is in a bad spot. I think you are going to have to lift the motor some to get to those bolts.

Name: Shane

-2011 Polaris RZR-4 800 (SOLD)
-1999 Polaris Sportsman 500 ATV
-2006 AC Prowler 650XT (SOLD)-- updated bevel gears, updated oil pump driven gear, 4 wheel disc brakes, line lock E-brake, Papa Slap clutch, Xentec HID's, Dynatek CDI, Warn skid plates, Intellitronix gauges, 2010 intake/cvt duct work and dust shield, RZR seats, Bestop folding windshield, full cab kit, rear cage and rear seats (4 seater)
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 05:42 PM
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Can you just pull off the belly pan to get at it? would be a lot of work to have to lift the whole motor..

2010 700XTX Orange -- Custom snorkel, Diff. vent mod (dry cavity), Bighorn 2.0's on custom painted "blacked out" rims, HMF Swamp Series XL with turn down, /// airdam stage 5, Some EPI goodies, Dynatek FS, Chrome headlight covers, Flip out windshield. "Cooler Hauler" ... Sold for another toy but still hangin around
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlmostxProwler View Post
Can you just pull off the belly pan to get at it? would be a lot of work to have to lift the whole motor..
The belly pan isn't the problem. I had mine off. Two of the torx bolts are right above the frame and there is almost no way of gaining access to them.

Name: Shane

-2011 Polaris RZR-4 800 (SOLD)
-1999 Polaris Sportsman 500 ATV
-2006 AC Prowler 650XT (SOLD)-- updated bevel gears, updated oil pump driven gear, 4 wheel disc brakes, line lock E-brake, Papa Slap clutch, Xentec HID's, Dynatek CDI, Warn skid plates, Intellitronix gauges, 2010 intake/cvt duct work and dust shield, RZR seats, Bestop folding windshield, full cab kit, rear cage and rear seats (4 seater)
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 05:55 PM
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ive never looked at it but can you take a torx bit and a 1/4" wrench and maybe get between the frame rail and the motor?
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blowinsoot00 View Post
ive never looked at it but can you take a torx bit and a 1/4" wrench and maybe get between the frame rail and the motor?
This might work. I just don't remember offhand just how much room is under there.

Name: Shane

-2011 Polaris RZR-4 800 (SOLD)
-1999 Polaris Sportsman 500 ATV
-2006 AC Prowler 650XT (SOLD)-- updated bevel gears, updated oil pump driven gear, 4 wheel disc brakes, line lock E-brake, Papa Slap clutch, Xentec HID's, Dynatek CDI, Warn skid plates, Intellitronix gauges, 2010 intake/cvt duct work and dust shield, RZR seats, Bestop folding windshield, full cab kit, rear cage and rear seats (4 seater)
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 06:04 PM
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I just looked at my prowler and a torx bit and 1/4"wrench will work to get em out
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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I tried..but I need to see tomorrow if I can get smaller torx. The ones I have are to long even with 1/4 inch. Years ago my dad had a very small ratchet that instead of a drive it had a small hole for a bit. One of those would work but I don't know if they even still make them. I'm guessing drilling two small holes through that would be a really bad idea.

08 650xt
Big Bore Kit
Speedwerx Exhaust
1.5: Snorkels
Dyna FS Ignition
AMR Monster Coil
Highlifter 2in Lift
Highlifter 1in Wheelspacers
Custom Roll Cage
Trail Armor Doors
Intellitronix Oil, Temp, and Volt Gauges
RickTheRocket UHMW Bushings all around
Superwinch Terra 3500
Papa Slap Stage 3 Clutching with Fix Plate Mod
Daryle_TN is offline  
post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you.. I will definetly try that. I can't imagine them designing that so you have to pull the motor to get that off.

08 650xt
Big Bore Kit
Speedwerx Exhaust
1.5: Snorkels
Dyna FS Ignition
AMR Monster Coil
Highlifter 2in Lift
Highlifter 1in Wheelspacers
Custom Roll Cage
Trail Armor Doors
Intellitronix Oil, Temp, and Volt Gauges
RickTheRocket UHMW Bushings all around
Superwinch Terra 3500
Papa Slap Stage 3 Clutching with Fix Plate Mod
Daryle_TN is offline  
post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 06:15 PM
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we have different frames I assume ..... but is there enough meat in the frame to drill a hole through the frame so you always have access ???? if ya have enough maybe drill a hole and weld in a piece of something like 3/8" pipe so you have reinforced the frame at the hole????

name is Gary or hey you if ya forget

2009 Prowler XTZ , couple things added here and there
'83 CJ7 / SBC + whole lot added here and there
'01 Dodge / Cummins / Dually, a ton of stuff added here and there

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE NEWBIES ...
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