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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Maintenance at 2600 mile

Hi guys

I have been woundering when I should do a clutch and belt job on my 2009 700 prowler, I have 2600 mile with no issues at this time . I just do not wont to be stranded out in the desert and is there any other things I should do?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 04:15 AM
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I have the same machine, and miles. I did change my belt, I kept the old one for a spare. It did not show any signs of wear or glazing. I inspected the oil sump screen (recommended inspection every 500 miles), and change my oil and filter every 5-600 miles. I changed my front and rear differentials fluids at 1,000 miles. If you do change the fluids, make sure you use the AC fluid for the rear, as it has a additive for the turf saver rearend. Cleaned the air cleaner housing, and filter monthly, or sooner if I'm in a lot of dust.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 07:33 AM
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....and with much earlier discussion about differentials leaking starting to around seals, I would measure how much fluid is drained from each one and only put that amount back in. You do not fill the differentials to the bottom of the fill hole like many of us would think. I believe my manual says 1 inch below fill hole as the level.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
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....and with much earlier discussion about differentials leaking starting to around seals, I would measure how much fluid is drained from each one and only put that amount back in. You do not fill the differentials to the bottom of the fill hole like many of us would think. I believe my manual says 1 inch below fill hole as the level.
correct Terry, 1'' below fill hole.

2015 A/C Sport,With a few add ons..........
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thanks guys just saved me some money, by not taking it in to the shop.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 04:36 AM
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Thanks guys just saved me some money, by not taking it in to the shop.
Dont be a stranger now,stop by from time to time,great members and great info.welcome to the site.....de3/mike

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairmont79 View Post
I have the same machine, and miles. I did change my belt, I kept the old one for a spare. It did not show any signs of wear or glazing. I inspected the oil sump screen (recommended inspection every 500 miles), and change my oil and filter every 5-600 miles. I changed my front and rear differentials fluids at 1,000 miles. If you do change the fluids, make sure you use the AC fluid for the rear, as it has a additive for the turf saver rearend. Cleaned the air cleaner housing, and filter monthly, or sooner if I'm in a lot of dust.
hey, how do you check the oil sump screen? I haven't done this yet. Thanks,
mitch

2010 700XTX Orange -- Custom snorkel, Diff. vent mod (dry cavity), Bighorn 2.0's on custom painted "blacked out" rims, HMF Swamp Series XL with turn down, /// airdam stage 5, Some EPI goodies, Dynatek FS, Chrome headlight covers, Flip out windshield. "Cooler Hauler" ... Sold for another toy but still hangin around
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 05:35 AM
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hey, how do you check the oil sump screen? I haven't done this yet. Thanks,
mitch
If yours is like the 650 it's loads of fun, you'll need to drop the skid plate and after you drain the oil remove the 4 bolts on the plate the drain plug screws in. 2 of the bolts are over a cross member and are a pain to remove.

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 05:40 AM
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Mitch, Drop the skid plate, and there are 4 bolts around the drain plug. And if your machine is like mine, there is a crossmember directly under the back 2 bolts! I used a Torx bit, and a small wrench 1/4" I think it was. It just barely fits in the space, but once it is broke free you can get it out with your fingers. I replaced the bolts with hex head to make future work easy. Some plates use an o-ring, and others use sealant. I found the reference for inspection in my owners manual, so like a fool I had to go do it! Daryle from TN Posted a thread on this, tool used, and where to buy, and compliments on the factory design!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlh1962 View Post
If yours is like the 650 it's loads of fun, you'll need to drop the skid plate and after you drain the oil remove the 4 bolts on the plate the drain plug screws in. 2 of the bolts are over a cross member and are a pain to remove.
mike I think someone had a post on here about that,I think it was using a torx bit with a wrench,not sure.

2015 A/C Sport,With a few add ons..........
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