Roll cage loosening? - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Roll cage loosening?

Hi:

Lately I have noticed that the mounting bolts for my roll cage are vibrating loose about every 250-300 miles. You can't really see that the bolts are loose, but when you see the roll cage begin to wiggle on bumps, you know they are.

Has anyone else had this issue? I was thinking of using some Loctite when I bind them down again. Any thoughts?

Bob

UTV Rally - April 21-24th, 2010
2008 650 XT, camo
Trail Armor full skid plate, Bilstein shocks, UNI prefilter, 3000 lb. Warn winch, ITP Baja Cross tires, Fusion stereo with Sirius radio and Poly Planar speakers, half doors, spare tire and gas can rack, two-rifle rack
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 02:06 PM
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Your cage bolts should've been installed with red Loctite (271 I believe) at the dealership. And each time they've been removed, re-Loctited. If not, they will vibrate loose like you are experiencing.
If it was that way from the dealer and no one has removed them since you purchased it, take it back to the dealer and request that they install the bolts with the Loctite as the setup instructions state.

Arctic Cat Prowler Desert Race XTZ: ITP BajaCross tires on ITP Beadlocks, Beard Super TZ Seats, Crowe 5pt harnesses, King Off-Road Racing Shocks, Custom Racing Chassis with 7 inch longer wheelbase, +5 Suspension set at 16 Front and 17 inches Rear inches travel, UTVINC did the tube bending
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info on the Loctite. Do you happen to know what the torque should be on these bolts?

UTV Rally - April 21-24th, 2010
2008 650 XT, camo
Trail Armor full skid plate, Bilstein shocks, UNI prefilter, 3000 lb. Warn winch, ITP Baja Cross tires, Fusion stereo with Sirius radio and Poly Planar speakers, half doors, spare tire and gas can rack, two-rifle rack
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElkoTrailRider View Post
Thanks for the info on the Loctite. Do you happen to know what the torque should be on these bolts?
The proper torque is only 8ft-lbs. Looking at the most recent setup instructions, they don't show using Loctite on the ROPS structure anymore, but I think that is because they already have locking compound on the threads when they come from the factory. But if you remove the bolts (which sometimes happens at the dealership if they install canopy covers or such), they bolts should be re-loctited.

Arctic Cat Prowler Desert Race XTZ: ITP BajaCross tires on ITP Beadlocks, Beard Super TZ Seats, Crowe 5pt harnesses, King Off-Road Racing Shocks, Custom Racing Chassis with 7 inch longer wheelbase, +5 Suspension set at 16 Front and 17 inches Rear inches travel, UTVINC did the tube bending
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! Appreciate your input.

UTV Rally - April 21-24th, 2010
2008 650 XT, camo
Trail Armor full skid plate, Bilstein shocks, UNI prefilter, 3000 lb. Warn winch, ITP Baja Cross tires, Fusion stereo with Sirius radio and Poly Planar speakers, half doors, spare tire and gas can rack, two-rifle rack
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 10:06 PM
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I havent had that problem but I have had other stuff come loose and I also ride a old harley and if you dont use loctite on everything your crazy.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-29-2009, 07:22 AM
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Went through the loctite bs with a dealer almost 4 years ago. Put split lock washers under the factory bolts and not another problem ever.



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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-29-2009, 08:40 AM
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Bob,

I have not driven mine yet, so I cannot speak from experience, however, I have made a few observations on mine.


My front base bolts, running through the bungs go into shoulder nuts that have no nylon locking inserts, therefore Loctite or split lockwashers are needed.


The rear base bolts have nylon lock inserts, but when adding the UTVCRAP harness bar, the bolts are are not quite long enough to engage the nylon.

All of the smaller bolts in the overhead bar and the rear upright bar had blue Loctite on them when I removed them.


What I decided to do is:


replace my OEM bolts with stainless socket heads (done)

use Loctite on the front base bolts along with a split lockwasher on the outside

use longer bolts & split lockwashers and new nylock nuts on the rear base bolts

use split lockwashers on all other bolts.

Terry
2009 Prowler XTZ 1000 Baja - ITP beadlock wheels, ITP Baja Cross X/D tires, 2" wheel spacers, harness bar, 5 point harnesses, custom doors, 4 Vision X LED lights, 2 PIAA lights, RAM mounts on roll bar and dash, military truck mirrors, polished aluminum rear frame brace, inside tube rear frame stiffeners, Mossy Oak camo pattern seats, custom front brush guard, parking brake 'on' alarm, Throttlemaxx controller, Uni pre-filter, and Mobil 1 4T M/C 10W-40 racing oil with K&N filter.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-29-2009, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again guys. I think for now I will go with Loctite on the OEM bolts, and if they loosen again I will follow Terry's lead. I never though about an old Harley and a UTV in the same sense, but I think the analogy is great!

UTV Rally - April 21-24th, 2010
2008 650 XT, camo
Trail Armor full skid plate, Bilstein shocks, UNI prefilter, 3000 lb. Warn winch, ITP Baja Cross tires, Fusion stereo with Sirius radio and Poly Planar speakers, half doors, spare tire and gas can rack, two-rifle rack
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-29-2009, 09:22 AM
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Ya the both shake them selves apart. only the Cat doesnt leak oil. Lol
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