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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Question New to the utv world and can use some prowler help

Hello everyone! I have been running 2wd chain driven atvs for about 15 years, was in an auto accident and forced to get out if the atv scene for a few years. I have now decided to try again with a utv. I am new to the utv world, 4wd, and belt drives and just purchased a 2010 PROWLER H1 xtx 700 efi from a relative. I bought it under value because he confidently explained it needed a belt. I have the machine home and in 4wd or locked 4wd it runs great in H, L and R. If I leave it in 2wd (H, L, or R) it does not want to engage to move. It tries to. I followed the PROWLER service manual and checked the shift linkages and they are fine. With the shift linkage cable off and manually putting it in any gear it reacts the same as described above. If you play with throttle you can sometimes get it to accelerate. It has a weird oil/clutch smell when riding it. Upon starting to investigate, I do not believe the belt is the problem or both 4wd and 2wd would have the same problem. (I did not check the belt for thjs reason) I have read posts on this forum and think it may be the turf saver rear. I was about to puchase the parts to address the rear: (2) 1/2 shafts 1502-938, (1) ring gear 36T 1402-032, (1) O ring 0423-149. The local Arctic Cat service center said it sounds like an oil seal is leaking oil allowing belt/clutch to slip. I don't think this to be correct or it should do it in both 2wd and 4wd. Can anyone please share their thoughts/experiences with me?

Thank you
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:19 AM
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It cant' be the belt. Turf saver is a good guess.

I would jack up the rear and turn the driveshaft by hand and see what happens or doesn't happen.

Check the rear output, driveshaft and axles first before you spend the money.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:23 AM
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Ya, I have to agree. It won't be an adjustment, because it engages the front diff electronically. Raise all 4 corners off the ground and try it. Listen to the rear diff and see if quiet or noisey. Check to make sure both of the axles input shafts are all the way in the rear diff. They have a tendency to wander out just enough where one won't engage, and do exactly what
your describing. You may just need a buck fifty retaining clip on the end of a axle. Good luck with it, and let us know what you find! While it in the air, drop the front and rear diff lube and change it. Perfect time! Welcome to the Prowler forum!

'09 650XT H1, 72" Eagle Plow, Warn 3500 Winch. Dyna CDI box, UNI filters, A/C V-bag and console, EPI lift kit, Highlifter springs, Scat ProCar suspension seats. Rick the Rockets A frame and shock bushings. 28x12X14 Raceline Bruisers on Vision rims, on all corners. Cowling heat vents. Factory heat and defrost. RD's custom alternator kit. XTZ hood scoop and front shocks. Monster shock covers, turn signals. OEM glass sport windshield, sliding rear window, and hardtop.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:25 AM
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Firecat beat me by about 2 seconds! Brat!!!

'09 650XT H1, 72" Eagle Plow, Warn 3500 Winch. Dyna CDI box, UNI filters, A/C V-bag and console, EPI lift kit, Highlifter springs, Scat ProCar suspension seats. Rick the Rockets A frame and shock bushings. 28x12X14 Raceline Bruisers on Vision rims, on all corners. Cowling heat vents. Factory heat and defrost. RD's custom alternator kit. XTZ hood scoop and front shocks. Monster shock covers, turn signals. OEM glass sport windshield, sliding rear window, and hardtop.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the quick responses. I will get it in the air this weekend and take a better look. I will post findings
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2017, 03:05 PM
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Welcome to the forum! Best place for information, and sometimes it is correct! LOL Oil smell is more than likely a small oil leak on the clutch inner seal. As far as the rear, I'd agree that the turf saver is bad, and you have the right part numbers needed to swap it out. If you replace the axles I'd try for the new style with a ball detent release feature (after market does not offer the new style), they are well worth the price. The price of a turf saver is 2-3 times as costly as a locked rear!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Question

Got PROWLER in the air and trying to turn driveshaft by hand doesn't engage the rear wheels at first, but moving it back and forth you can get the wheels to turn. Running in 2wd wheels will turn but watching the driveshaft, driveshaft will spin before tires fully turn. If i chock wheels while in air the driveshaft will spin and after maybe 1 or 2 seconds before you feel the power engaging the wheels. There is also a slight clicking noise I can't pinpoint....either rear or at driveshaft. It is not an instantaneous grab. I tried nothing with front in the air or 4wd. I did drain rear oil and 4.5oz drained out, which I believe is half of what is needed. Shafts seem to be all the way into the rear. Also 3 of the 4 cv boots have tears. Still leaning towards turf saver. Even though I am obviously not clear on how this rear is suppose to perform. Any thoughts is greatly appreciated?

What oil are guys running in front diff and rear duff with and without turf saver rear? Utv has 5,000 miles on it and was used little around farm

Last edited by Model A; 11-15-2017 at 08:55 PM. Reason: Clarity
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 06:51 AM
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I agree on the Turf Saver! The symptoms you describe point to it as being the problem. Excessive driveshaft rotation before the wheels turn, jerky starts are also indicators! I use AC lube with the friction modifier on my Turf Saver. AMSOIL also has a great gear synthetic lube that works great (it also has the friction modifier). With the Turf Saver I changed the lube 3-4 times a year, and with the locked rear I change it twice a year (spring, and fall), but I rack up a lot of miles!

2009 700EFI XTX, , AC Winch, 2010 Dust Shield EPI Sport Utility Clutch Kit , Street Legal, Cage chopped 2 ", Aluminum Diamond Plate Trim, Relocated Factory Bladders with covers, 5 Pt. Harness installed, Bed Tiedown System, Scat Pro-Car Seats, Secondary Battery installed, Oil Pressure, Oil/CVT Temperature, Volt Meter & Water Temp Gauges installed with Dash Plate, Bighorns, ITP Black 212 Wheels. Tonneau cover. 750 Big Bore Kit, Web Cam, and Rocker Arms.

Either - Dick or RD
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you I am going to order parts today and will post how I make out
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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All parts finally came in. Got UTV disassembled. Installed gear and new o-ring. Went to put in half shafts and they are about 5 inches too short. I ordered PN 1502-938. The box says PN 1502-938 KIT HALFSHAFT (1502-798). THEY definately won't fit. Did I order the wrong shafts? Any idea whay happened?
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