Transmission-Clutch Noises - Arctic Cat Prowler Forums: Prowler UTV Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Transmission-Clutch Noises

2006 H1 650 Prowler
1) Difficult to get in and out of gear even after beefing up the shifter mechanism and adjusting the linkage.
2) Clinks and clanks in idle
3) When warm, the clutch doesnt want to disengage and the engine dies when decelerating to stop.
4) Overall, it does not want to stop when in gear, and when brakes are pushed to stop, the engine dies.
I dont want to prematurely tear the clutch assemblies apart. Anybody have a clue?
Please provide a list of possibles! Or links.
I cannot ride as is!
Thanks
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 01:57 PM
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Mine is doing the same thing!
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 02:10 PM
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Sounds like a bad belt to me or a clutching issue.. the clinking and clanking might be that one or more of your rollers have turned in their channels. If I were you I would take the drive clutch off clean everything up, make sure you get it back together with the rollers set up right and put a new AC (factory) belt on. Pretty simple fix really, the clutches are really easy to work on these things as long as you have a few tools.

Welcome to the site to both of you! great bunch here and lots of info

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 06:07 PM
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Sounds like a primary clutch hung up!! Clean inspect and reassemble Dry with a ac belt.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. There is a newer belt at 36mm across top, rollers are still round, however primary has a groove near center, on both insides, ie where the top of the belt rides. Is this the problem? I can hypothesize that the top of the belt gets hung up in the groove ( 1/8 height and approx 1/16" deep). Should I get it to a lathe or do i just need to replace it?

Last edited by adriant33; 11-15-2011 at 06:18 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 11:32 PM
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Sounds like wet clutch to me.

How many miles?
Have not put any oil additives have you?
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riddler28 View Post
Sounds like wet clutch to me.

How many miles?
Have not put any oil additives have you?


yup its in the wet clutch .... your belt and drive clutches only move after centrifical force engages the wet clutch . if you pull you belt cover off and start the engine look and see if the belt is trying to spin, if so your wet clutch is engaging. the oil you use can play a fator in this . or you could have bad springs on the wet clutch. or even worse metal material built up . first thing to check is the idle speed. werent the 06 carb'd you can adjust the idle with the idle screw. , high idle will cause the wet clutch to engage.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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I am repairing this for a friend from an auction purchase. I do not know if the oil was maintained correctly, however, the oils that are in it now are fresh and the inside of the clutch housing is clean. I have adjusted the idle to 800 and then back up to 1100 and then 1200, the belts still spin and the primary still turns the secondary. I even put my foot on the secondary sheave to try to stop in idle, and I could not stop the secondary with pressure. How easy is it to replace the wet clutch? I am ready to tear into it tomorrow. Do I need any special tools?
Thanks
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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So-
You are saying that with the cover off, while idling around 1100 to 1200 rpm, if the primary is spinning, then the wet clutch is the culprit?
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adriant33 View Post
I am repairing this for a friend from an auction purchase. I do not know if the oil was maintained correctly, however, the oils that are in it now are fresh and the inside of the clutch housing is clean. I have adjusted the idle to 800 and then back up to 1100 and then 1200, the belts still spin and the primary still turns the secondary. I even put my foot on the secondary sheave to try to stop in idle, and I could not stop the secondary with pressure. How easy is it to replace the wet clutch? I am ready to tear into it tomorrow. Do I need any special tools?
Thanks
Yeah but it needs to be a wet clutch approved oil. Use the Arctic Cat ACX Synthetic 4-Cycle Oil as it is wet clutch compatible and works well.

2009 Prowler XTZ 1000 with a few modifications. Needs paint & powder coating.
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