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post #1 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Newbie from Texas

Well Im new to this site and a new 09 XTZ 1000 Baja owner. i have searched around here and I have learned a lot already! Im not new to Arctic cat. Ive owned a 07 400 auto 4x4 since it was new and it has held up very well.

I have read about the over heating issues for a while. I wanted to get someone elses opinion about going to the higher psi radiator cap. Mine doesnt overheat (yet) but when i go full speed just for a short distance it puckes fluid.

Also it looks like a cv axle popped out of the rear diff?? inhavent had the time yet to do this reasurch. Any ideas? it slung fluid every where as well.
Thanks everyone and im excited to learn a bunch from yall
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post #2 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 11:23 AM
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Welcome to the forum! There are alot of great people on here with alot of knowledge who are always willing to help! Just curious.. does your machine have a lift kit on it? I know sometime that can put unnecessary strain on the the axle at the differential. I think I also heared that they original replacement axles were a little to short but not sure. On the overheating some of these xtz guys I'm sure will chime in. But based on what I've read before some of the issues were around air in cooling system, faulty thermostat, fan not running when it should. I know some guys have ran engine-ice coolant to remedy this problem. Just my opinion I'm not sure I would put I higher PSI cap on. Because if it's overheating and building pressure that pressure is always going to come out the weekest point. With a higher PSI cap you will just be driving the pressure somewhere else. I would rather the weak spot be the cap than a hose. If you cap blows off you can still limp home by adding water, if your hose blows wide open your stranded if you don't have the parts to fix it. But just my opinion.. again welcome to the forum.

P.S. If this becomes a constant issue you may want to consider installing a fan-override switch so you can force the fan on and keep you cool.

08 650xt
Big Bore Kit
Speedwerx Exhaust
1.5: Snorkels
Dyna FS Ignition
AMR Monster Coil
Highlifter 2in Lift
Highlifter 1in Wheelspacers
Custom Roll Cage
Trail Armor Doors
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RickTheRocket UHMW Bushings all around
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post #3 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Apprecitate the feed back, the one thing that leads me to the cap is the motor isnt getting hot. Or at least the light isnt coming on. Everything on my machine is completely factory. I just try and take it full speed and the overflow tube pukes fluid. (maybe it does get that hot in that short of time and the light isnt working) I can hear the fan come on and it doenst stay on long, just about a min and it turns off again. Just seems a little strange except the head gasket problem? Maybe thats my problem but i really hope not.

I familuar with the way the axles come out of the rear dliff, there was about a 1/4" gap between the axle and the diff, and fluid was everywhere. Does that little clip on the inside not hold?

Thanks for the help and Welcomes
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post #4 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 01:50 PM
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Ok I gotcha.. I thought it was overheating. My bad. Yeah the fan doesn't run long. Only a couple min then back off. And if your fan is kicking on and off when it should then IMO your temp sender should be working fine because the fan and the display both read from the sender. Alot of us on here have added an in-line temperature gauge just in case. They help alot when it comes to trouble shooting and give you a backup in case your factory one craps out. You can add a gauge in for less than $75 for everything. But as to why it's puking fluid I'm not sure. Later in the day some guys on here will chime in that have probably encountered this before. Regarding the axle popping out I know there have been issues with the spring-clip getting weak and not holding. Unless you come across a more obvious problem I would start by replacing that. Cheap and easy.

Here's a link to a walk-through to test coolant for exhaust so you can find out if your head gasket is leaking. The info has the NAPA PN for the test kit. Head Gasket or Combustion Leak Test Procedure (Gasoline Engines Only)

And if you did decide to add a gauge here's what I used and they work great!

Inline Sending Unit Adapter Auto Meter

Gauge:



There are cheaper ways to go but these gauges are sweet and work great. Just FYI

08 650xt
Big Bore Kit
Speedwerx Exhaust
1.5: Snorkels
Dyna FS Ignition
AMR Monster Coil
Highlifter 2in Lift
Highlifter 1in Wheelspacers
Custom Roll Cage
Trail Armor Doors
Intellitronix Oil, Temp, and Volt Gauges
RickTheRocket UHMW Bushings all around
Superwinch Terra 3500
Papa Slap Stage 3 Clutching with Fix Plate Mod
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post #5 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 01:54 PM
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Smile welcome

welcome aboard,lots of great members,hang around and you will learn alot,as far as axle not had any problems,i have 2006, but i have heard of the axles popping out on the newering ones.someone will chime in and help you.

2015 A/C Sport,With a few add ons..........
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post #6 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks Daryle that helps me a bunch on the gauge. I will deffinatly do that!
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post #7 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 03:47 PM
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Welcome aboard.

If you look at the factory grill in the front you will notice the vertical row of plastic that blocks 50% of the air flow going directly to the radiator. If you want to drop your temps during hot summer days cut this out and add some screen there. Here is what I did to make the airflow better. I run a Fluidyne radiator and it has a much better rad cap included I think it's a 21 psi cap. My temps dropped 25 degrees from opening the front up.
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2009 Prowler XTZ 1000 with a few modifications. Needs paint & powder coating.
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post #8 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 03:51 PM
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As far as the axles go....Arctic cat came out with a new improved axle that uses a press button locking mechanism with a few balls to retain the rear axle and circlip better. Are your axle cups black or white?

white=new black=old.

Here is the pic of the press button set up.
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2009 Prowler XTZ 1000 with a few modifications. Needs paint & powder coating.
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post #9 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Well i have 1 white (guy said that was the one he replaced) and one black one. The black one popped out, If i remember from my ATV axle replacement the seal rides on the side of the CV joint and it has a dust cover. Thats what i can see so far is that the dust cover is seperated from the diff a little bit. Would temp of the oil and the vent stopped up pop an axle out? It did this after running fast for a little while? Seems like i ran across some old post (2009) that were talking about this maybe? Im probably going to tear into it tonight and see what i can find. I remember having to tug pretty hard on my ATV axle to get it out of the diff, what would cause this just to come out? Wasnt doing any hard riding but going fast. I just bought this thing yesterday.
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post #10 of 63 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Also how do you get the balls to relax? Just pull back on the outter piece? Thanks Flying 121!
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