Well, I have owned my Prowler for 3 years now and it is time to do some upgrades.
On the list: Dual battery with Isolator, Accessory Fuse Block, Under glow and interior lights "Thanks to Bryan", Stereo with Marine Speakers Pods, Led Whip Antenna, Rewiring switches and adding additional ones, CVT temperature gauge, CVT inline fan, Water temperature gauge, and finally fan override 3 way switch.
Oh and some maintenance: Check and possible change out differential fluids and air filter.
Items completed about 2 weeks ago: EPI Sport Clutch kit, removal of one way bearing, New Severe Duty EPI belt.
Items already installed prior: Soft top, winch, led cube lights, and Charlie's homemade snorkel system.
Once I have it complete and cleaned up I'll add some photos. Hopefully if all goes well I can get the above accomplished this week sometime.
That sounds good Charlie!! I gotta do the EPI sports clutch!! My Swamp Lites are 28" and I'm not wanting to burn out a belt. I do 90% of what I use her for in low range, but you know how it can go!!
Modifying a Prowler makes perfect sense! Better to upgrade than buy another machine. My street tires are like brand new! Hard to hurt them on the street, but on loose sand they are worthless, that is fine as we ride mostly hardpack. My offroad tires are BigHorn's about 4 years old. They are down to about 50%. Once we get to AZ, I'll have to look at a good set of tires for the desert, thinking a strong sidewall will be needed.
I almost traded it in last year for a Polaris Ranger High Lifter but could not bring myself to spend 18k. So I decided since it is paid for, time to upgrade rather than trade. I am thinking about a second side by side to have. Bass pro has a left over Wildcat Trail for around 9k. Sounds like a steal and I could sell my sons ATV. The bonus, someone to pull me out when I'm stuck. Probably just dreaming though.
here is something you can do (if you havent done already) for cheap. seal the seat pan.
i bought some 3/4 inch by 1 inch tall weather seal off amazon. i used it to go around the battery hole under the seat (on the seat pan). the side along the back (closest to the seat back) i had some foam 1/8 thick that i doubled up. it was just too tight for the 3/4 thick stuff. in the pictures you can see i used some of the grey 1/8 inch stuff to tie the corner seams together.
i took the extra faom and stuck it to the removable hump on the floor along the top edge to seal the seat pan to the removable hump. i actually had to double it up so it was 1 1/2 thick. also i got some aluminum flashing i had laying around and pop riveted it to the underside of the seat pan to cover up the holes the seat slides into.
these mods really cut down on noise and also dust coming from the engine compartment. i think it cost me about 25 bucks for the two rolls of foam. here are some pics i took but they are not the best. i was in a hurry.
Ok, so you covered the entire bottom of the seat pan? I was thinking of doing something similar just wasn't sure what I could use that would be heat resistant. I was also thinking about placing a heat shield between the engine and the bed as well. If you happen to find what you used let me know.
i didnt do the entire seat pan, i just covered the holes with aluminum flashing from menards that i has left over from an earlier house project. i figured aluminum would dissipate better. i used the 1/8 foam then the aluminum pop rivets crushed it perfectly. looking back i think i might have been better off using high temp rv silicone instead for the seal.
here is what i got from amazon. this isnt the price, i didnt order through my amazon account so i cant find the exact one. Large Weatherstrip
here is the 1/8 foam i got from amazon.
here is the type of flashing i used. you most likely can use pop cans if your careful. Flashing
That reminds me.........I actually have a new box of 1/2" Dynamat!!! I need to put that in the cowling as well the seat pans!!!! Thanks for the reminder!!!!!
My downfall is that I can't leave stuff alone! Mama just does not see things as I do! I love the mechanical aspects of mine as much as I do riding! I was very fortunate to have a skilled mechanic for a father! Thanks Dad!
Sneak peak at what I got accomplished last night. Several LED's wired along with my new speakers. I put two in the rear light housing that shine down on the bed and interior. Those will be wired to a separate switch. Thanks again Bryan for the light idea!
Speakers mounts installed and wires ran. All LED's are now mounted with wiring ran to fuse block. Secondary battery location determined and being placed under hood. Battery isolator mounted along with the fuse distribution block.
Tested the stereo out and it jams. Hoping to get most of it done this weekend if I can and post some photos as soon as I have them.
One question I have for you guys. Accessories will include a 4500 lbs winch, stereo, LED's, LED flood lights, CV Belt fan, and a LED whip antenna. Should I hook all of this up to the secondary battery or keep the winch connected to my main battery as it always has been?
That is exactly what I was thinking. I'm going to connect all the non essentials to the secondary and keep the winch connect to the primary. Thanks Fairmont
Pretty much what I did! I figure AC hooked the winch up, why bother changing something that works! I added remote battery terminals, a second battery, a solenoid to connect/disconnect the battery, a 8 circuit fused panel for accessories. The solenoid is behind the drivers seat behind the air filter access panel, the battery is mounted on the lower frame rail besides the driver side rear wheel, and everything else is on, or in the storage tub! The remote posts really work well! Jump Start, battery maintainer, is a snap!
I decided to put the extra battery, Isolator, and fuse block under the hood in order to keep it as dry as possible. I already have a battery maintainer hooked directly to the battery which just plugs in so not sure I'd have a use for the remote posts, but I like the idea.
I've got a maintainer hooked up on mine also with the connector easy to hook up by the driver's seat. The remote terminals would be handy if you ever had to jumpstart it.
Here's a pic of remote terminals and battery maintainer wiring. I did the floor pan mount too save on the amount of wiring I'ld have to run to under the hood. It'll make for a slight inconvenience to pull the floor pan. But, it was super simple to put them there and hook em up to my new car battery I installed.
Upgrades are coming along. It is taking me forever working on it a little here and there. Hopefully I will be done soon and be able to post some photos and info.
Thanks for the info. Went ahead and ordered one since I am doing a lot of wiring right now anyway. So far I have almost all of the new switches wired, stereo and speakers done, Isolator installed, and the Battery on/off switch complete. To be completed: finish wiring the switches, mount the battery, finish wiring all the LED lights Bryan talked me into "Just kidding", and put the Prowler back together so I can go get it dirty. Oh yeah, and wire the wireless remote that buckslayr talked me into. Photos to come.
Thank you. I really like the ones I put overhead. I hooked the exterior and interior lights up to a double throw switch with a diode. Allowing me to switch down for outside lights and then up for all of them.
well my battery took a dump on me this weekend so my newest latest greatest upgrade is just that. i had come across a battery earlier this spring that peaked my interest when i had a starting issue. it a renegade wicked start RG30L-WS. it is supposed to have 600+ CCA and it is the same measurements as the stock battery for my rig. well i guess we will see. it cost 114 bucks shipped from amazon. dang things are more spendy than my truck batteries.
I ended up just buying a AGM Neverstart, I meant "Everstart" battery from Walmart. Seems to work for what I have on it.
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