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i have loud noise in trans prob bev gears can they be rebuilt from left side or do i have to conpleetly take both side apart thanks for your input
You have to "completely" tear down your motor to replace your bevel gears..... That means top end, left side, right side have to be torn apart and your center cases have to be split apart. Not a hard job, but can be time consuming.....

Besides the noise, what does it do or not do? Also, I would not run your motor like this in case it is broken bevel gears. If they are destroyed inside, and you continue to run it you run the risk of cracking your case (if they aren't already cracked). You can see some pictures of my bevel gears in my photo album.
 

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I usually order from derbycycles.net due to the free shipping, but I search for my part numbers on babbits online parts search. Not sure what you mean by the inner carrier bearing rings.
 

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i need the bearing on the output shaft behind the bev gear and a set of piston rings and all the gaskets to put the motor back together
Did a shop tell you you needed that bearing? Personally if it was me, I would upgrade to the new style bevel gears if I were you. You are already going to be in that far. Good time to replace the bevels with the new style for a little added insurance. I can help you with finding the part numbers. For all your gaskets, new output shaft bearing, and new style bevel gears you are probably looking around $350 in parts if I remember correctly. This isn't counting the piston rings.
 

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Here are the part #'s for the upgraded bevels and engine gaskets...


The part numbers for the bevel gear updates are...

0822-122-- -KIT, REAR SECONDARY-H1
0832-077--- BEARING, OUTPUT SHAFT
0830-084--- GASKET, BASE
0830-085 ---GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD
0412-338 ---GASKET, EXHAUST PIPE
0830-128 ---GASKET, MAGNETO COVER
0830-116 ---GASKET, COVER-CLUTCH
0830-174 ---GASKET, V-BELT COVER

Here is some good reading about the bevels as well.

Bevel gear swap question

bevel gears
 

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Here is the part number for the piston rings.... 0805-011. It shows on Babbits for about $85. However, I would go with part number 0805-035 which includes a new piston and new rings for roughly just $20 more. Babbits shows the piston and rings for $104. Like I said, I would compare prices between Babbits and Derbycycles.net. Babbits usually lists the bigger items for cheaper, but you have to add shipping cost. Derby usually lists the bigger items for a little more, but they offer free shipping. So have to see what the end result is.

For small items such as bolts or circlips, Derby is a lot cheaper than Babbits. Babbits will often list those smaller items for like $3 per bolt where Derby might be less than $1 for each bolt.

Just some info I've found doing all my repairs.
 

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And if you are going to be in there make sure you upgrade to the new oil pump driven gear for a little more added insurance... Part# 0812-083
 

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thanks shane for your help
No problem... If you are going to do this job yourself, feel free to ask for any advice. I have a ton of pictures, and a few pointers on helping things go smoother. There are also a few tools that I would recommend. They can often be rented for free, maybe from your local Autozone, O-reillys, or online. And some can be found cheap from Harbor Freight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i am doing it myself i have it all took apart wasnot to bad for my first time i have worked on car motors all my life ordered all the parts today cost 420.00 bucks better than paying my local dealer 12-18 hundred dollars they ask to fix it.
 

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i am doing it myself i have it all took apart wasnot to bad for my first time i have worked on car motors all my life ordered all the parts today cost 420.00 bucks better than paying my local dealer 12-18 hundred dollars they ask to fix it.
Who did you order the parts from? Just be sure you shim the new bevel gears correctly (I was told by those more experienced to shim it on the tighter side of the spectrum). You will use a dial indicator and check the whole tooth contact pattern. If it isn't setup correctly, you can get a horrible racket. One easy way I checked this was I took a drill with a socket bit end and hooked it to one side of the through-shaft (have to pull off the u-joint on the one side). Then spin up the drill to get the gears spinning. As long as you are not too deep on the tooth contact, it will be relatively quiet. If you get root contact, it will sound like sh**.

I don't know what if any kind of damage you have in there. But make sure your through-shaft isn't bent. I took a straight edge ruler and lined it up agains the edge tip of the longer shaft. Then I rotated that shaft to check to see if the gap between the tip and the ruler changed. My through-shaft bent when the gears broke.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I took a ton of pictures during the whole rebuild process. And like I said, do the new style oil pump driven gear while you are in there. I didn't find out about it until after the fact. So now I have to go back in to do mine. Just figured I'd save you the time and hassle.
 

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Who did you order the parts from? Just be sure you shim the new bevel gears correctly (I was told by those more experienced to shim it on the tighter side of the spectrum). You will use a dial indicator and check the whole tooth contact pattern. If it isn't setup correctly, you can get a horrible racket. One easy way I checked this was I took a drill with a socket bit end and hooked it to one side of the through-shaft (have to pull off the u-joint on the one side). Then spin up the drill to get the gears spinning. As long as you are not too deep on the tooth contact, it will be relatively quiet. If you get root contact, it will sound like sh**.

I don't know what if any kind of damage you have in there. But make sure your through-shaft isn't bent. I took a straight edge ruler and lined it up agains the edge tip of the longer shaft. Then I rotated that shaft to check to see if the gap between the tip and the ruler changed. My through-shaft bent when the gears broke
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. I took a ton of pictures during the whole rebuild process. And like I said, do the new style oil pump driven gear while you are in there. I didn't find out about it until after the fact. So now I have to go back in to do mine. Just figured I'd save you the time and hassle.
GREAT Info shane.and know how.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
the only thing i had bad was the inner bearing on the secondary shaft all the gears look good .i orderd parts from babbitts i had a loud thumping noise for a while and then it started a squillling sound to. so i decided to fix it. i was only rideing short slow rides so i was taking it easy on it probly why nothing else was broke i bought it new in 08 and have halled a lot of heavy loads of fire wood thanks gater
 

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You have to "completely" tear down your motor to replace your bevel gears..... That means top end, left side, right side have to be torn apart and your center cases have to be split apart. Not a hard job, but can be time consuming.....

Besides the noise, what does it do or not do? Also, I would not run your motor like this in case it is broken bevel gears. If they are destroyed inside, and you continue to run it you run the risk of cracking your case (if they aren't already cracked). You can see some pictures of my bevel gears in my photo album.
Hi Shane, just caught the discussion with gator. My 08 Prowler probably has the same issue. It runs great. The clutch seems fine but got a loud crunch pulling a stump and no movement, and grinding. Motor is still in machine. Have not pulled one before. Would like to have access to your notes and photos as I take this on.
 
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