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2007 PROWLER XT 650 H1

Problem is oil consumption. About 125 miles to a quart. (just above low mark)

I rebuilt the motor to improve problem to no avail. Compression is 180 psi.

You do not see smoke but do smell it. Some carbonation on plug as seen in pic

I did break it in with synthetic oil. (about 1200 miles) There are no leaks after replacing o ring on primary clutch shaft.

New parts in top end are head, OEM piston/rings and cylinder. rebuilt carburetor

Im wondering if problem could be the new oil control ring? Maybe notches lined up during break in?

Thats a lot of oil for valve seals which are new but good compression. Maybe a WISECO piston would be better?

anything Im missing? thanks for your help
 

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2007 PROWLER XT 650 H1

Problem is oil consumption. About 125 miles to a quart. (just above low mark)

I rebuilt the motor to improve problem to no avail. Compression is 180 psi.

You do not see smoke but do smell it. Some carbonation on plug as seen in pic

I did break it in with synthetic oil. (about 1200 miles) There are no leaks after replacing o ring on primary clutch shaft.

New parts in top end are head, OEM piston/rings and cylinder. rebuilt carburetor

Im wondering if problem could be the new oil control ring? Maybe notches lined up during break in?

Thats a lot of oil for valve seals which are new but good compression. Maybe a WISECO piston would be better?

anything Im missing? thanks for your help
Hi New to forum, 2010 XTX700 6500km
Same problem using oil after new piston and rings installed using 0-40 synthetic as beak in driving slow and varied to insure break in. Oil smell only so its burning oil & fowling plug.
Will be tearing down top end once again to see what the cylinder walls have done, honed and cross hatched at rebuild which I thought was good enough to over come the shinny spot where piston runs but maybe it was not enough to over come glazing? Previously used 20-50 amsoil which I found out is the thinnest 20-50 on the market thus 0-40 is best for year round, blamed oil for glazing of cylinder.
Last time engine smoked out exhaust when punching throttle but not at cruise or idle; problem turned out to be both exhaust seals and cylinder wall glazing so I put new seals and piston and it sounded and ran better. After about 50 miles started to smell oil it had burnt 3/4 quart over 20 miles slow running and fouled spark plug leading to hard start in cold temp.
Will be working on issue over the coming month with special attention to cylinder wall.

fleabittentigre
 

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Good questions, I had used a regular bar honer and thought I had good crosshatch but I hear the ball honer does better job but there pricey. Since my post I found compression to be about 120 after running it longer. Manuel says lower than that and there is a decompression thingy on camshaft. Also did a blow down test and had only 3 per cent leakage @90 psi. Funny thing was when I rotated crank I didn't hear or feel any air out exhaust or carb...weird but it runs fine. (besides oil smell burning) This problem has happened twice now with OEM piston/rings. Thinking WISECO piston next time and have someone else hone it
 

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Good questions, I had used a regular bar honer and thought I had good crosshatch but I hear the ball honer does better job but there pricey. Since my post I found compression to be about 120 after running it longer. Manuel says lower than that and there is a decompression thingy on camshaft. Also did a blow down test and had only 3 per cent leakage @90 psi. Funny thing was when I rotated crank I didn't hear or feel any air out exhaust or carb...weird but it runs fine. (besides oil smell burning) This problem has happened twice now with OEM piston/rings. Thinking WISECO piston next time and have someone else hone it
I used both a bar hone and ball hone and the glaze seemed to be conquered, bar hone removes the glaze and ball hone creates a nice cross hatch will see what happened after I take top end apart later. Have not checked compression yet. Used cat piston and rings after checking bore diameter and ring end gap all come in with in spec. This is confusing and leads me to the cylinder bore the only issue where oil can by pass and burn?
 

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Yes it sucks when you think you did every thing right. Did check ring gaps (.014) and it was good. The cylinder is fairly new as well. The ring gaps for the oil control rings are only set about 90 degrees according to manual and am told those don't show up on a compression test as well as valve stem seals. (which are new) Hard to believe those seals could leak that much consumption. I'm running Rotella t6 oil. These things probably use some oil when new but not 120 miles to a quart! Rebuilt carburetor thinking it was running too rich but that wasn't it. Frustrated!
 

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Hi New to forum, 2010 XTX700 6500km
Same problem using oil after new piston and rings installed using 0-40 synthetic as beak in driving slow and varied to insure break in. Oil smell only so its burning oil & fowling plug.
Will be tearing down top end once again to see what the cylinder walls have done, honed and cross hatched at rebuild which I thought was good enough to over come the shinny spot where piston runs but maybe it was not enough to over come glazing? Previously used 20-50 amsoil which I found out is the thinnest 20-50 on the market thus 0-40 is best for year round, blamed oil for glazing of cylinder.
Last time engine smoked out exhaust when punching throttle but not at cruise or idle; problem turned out to be both exhaust seals and cylinder wall glazing so I put new seals and piston and it sounded and ran better. After about 50 miles started to smell oil it had burnt 3/4 quart over 20 miles slow running and fouled spark plug leading to hard start in cold temp.
Will be working on issue over the coming month with special attention to cylinder wall.

fleabittentigre
Manual calls for ball hone only, cylinder chrome is thin. Could your oil control ring be upside down?
 

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good question. I did what manual said about making sure they did not overlap, but don't see it saying any direction up or down? If the end of expander is overlapped, I don't think there is enough room for entire ring to set in piston groove properly. I think I have gap facing down. Ya know I wish I would of bought ball honer now:(:(

49979
 

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good question. I did what manual said about making sure they did not overlap, but don't see it saying any direction up or down? If the end of expander is overlapped, I don't think there is enough room for entire ring to set in piston groove properly. I think I have gap facing down. Ya know I wish I would of bought ball honer now:(:(

View attachment 49979
 

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Rings usually have a stamped dot indicating the top
 

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