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Discussion Starter #1
New to the forum but been doing lot of reading with lots of good info
I just bought a 2008 650 H1 stock with 30 mudzilla's 850 miles , I have been reading about clocking the clutch and changing the clutch weights.
I will be some mudding and deer hunting, trail riding etc. on this machine.
I am not truly looking for super top speed but with what I have what would be the best set up for me like how many holes to drill in rollers.
Thanks for any help and input for a arctic cat rookie.
 

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welcome to the house , bring Coffee we're about out ?

as to the questions no experience with 650/700's sorry but one of the regulars will chime in soon .

fill in the location and signature so sometime down the road we won't have to answer a question with a question
 

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I'm thinking your Prowler came with 21 gram clutch rollers, with the bigger tires you are correct you need to have lighter rollers for any serious Mud! Arctic Cat offers a 17 gram roller, or the aftermarket can help. With the factory roller it is one piece and I don't think you can drill/remove enough material to make much of a difference. Clocking the spring will also increase RPM's on back shifting, and take off.

17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482

25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298



C-1 is 34 degrees of preload on the spring so yeah its a little more than the others here is a graph to show it all to you


with the helix facing upwards, you turn the top movable sheave clockwise, tightening the
spring up giving the spring a pre-load to snap the clutch closed.

the A,B,C settings are incremental in 1,2,3,4 hole positions on the helix itself. meaning if you leave the
spring in the

B position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 16 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 38 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 70 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 92 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe


A position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 25 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 58 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 88 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 106 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (almost impossible to get it around to line up
spring is too stiff)


C position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 34 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 69 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 93 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 120+ degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (couldn't get it around there so i am only guessing)


so every time you go up a hole, you are adding more twist to the
spring, increasing the spring rate which gives you a faster and snappier backshift. i wish i had a spring load device that would allow me to clock the spring giving it more twist and compress it at the same time to see the increase in spring rate but i do not have that ability. for anyone who has dealt with their own clutch you will know that B-4 is SUPER hard to twist the sheave around and get lined up to, because it is super hard to reach. you can see by the degree of twist on the spring, you can calculate what rate would give you the correct spring tension you want. obviously B-1 is the softest setting you can have, and they go up from there. i'll try and make a list of the softest setting to the stiffest setting for you guys just curious.


B-1 -- 16 degrees
A-1 -- 25 degrees
C-1 -- 34 degrees
B-2 -- 38 degrees
A-2 -- 58 degrees
C-2 -- 69 degrees
B-3 -- 70 degrees
A-3 -- 88 degrees
B-4 -- 92 degrees
C-3 -- 93 degrees
A-4 -- 106 degrees
C-4 -- 120+ degrees


 

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I'm thinking your Prowler came with 21 gram clutch rollers, with the bigger tires you are correct you need to have lighter rollers for any serious Mud! Arctic Cat offers a 17 gram roller, or the aftermarket can help. With the factory roller it is one piece and I don't think you can drill/remove enough material to make much of a difference. Clocking the spring will also increase RPM's on back shifting, and take off.
 

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Registered
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I'm thinking your Prowler came with 21 gram clutch rollers, with the bigger tires you are correct you need to have lighter rollers for any serious Mud! Arctic Cat offers a 17 gram roller, or the aftermarket can help. With the factory roller it is one piece and I don't think you can drill/remove enough material to make much of a difference. Clocking the spring will also increase RPM's on back shifting, and take off.

17 gram roller - white - 02/375 - 03+400 - part number: 3402-366
19 gram roller - red - prowler 09+700 - part number: 0823-164
21 gram roller - blue - various H1 engines - part number: 0823-167
23 gram roller - green - Tcat engines - part number: 0823-170
25 gram roller - white - 06+ 500 - part number: 3402-482

25 gram roller - white - 00- 09 500 - part number: 3402-483
28 gram roller - gray - 10/650MP - 11+700mp - 12 WildCat - part number: 0823-295
33 gram roller - black - 10+ Tcat mudpro - part number: 0823-298



C-1 is 34 degrees of preload on the spring so yeah its a little more than the others here is a graph to show it all to you


with the helix facing upwards, you turn the top movable sheave clockwise, tightening the
spring up giving the spring a pre-load to snap the clutch closed.

the A,B,C settings are incremental in 1,2,3,4 hole positions on the helix itself. meaning if you leave the
spring in the

B position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 16 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 38 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 70 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 92 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe


A position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 25 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 58 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 88 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 106 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (almost impossible to get it around to line up
spring is too stiff)


C position and put it in the

#1 hole you twist the sheave 34 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#2 hole you twist the sheave 69 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#3 hole you twist the sheave 93 degrees to line the helix up with the shoe
#4 hole you twist the sheave 120+ degrees to line the helix up with the shoe (couldn't get it around there so i am only guessing)


so every time you go up a hole, you are adding more twist to the
spring, increasing the spring rate which gives you a faster and snappier backshift. i wish i had a spring load device that would allow me to clock the spring giving it more twist and compress it at the same time to see the increase in spring rate but i do not have that ability. for anyone who has dealt with their own clutch you will know that B-4 is SUPER hard to twist the sheave around and get lined up to, because it is super hard to reach. you can see by the degree of twist on the spring, you can calculate what rate would give you the correct spring tension you want. obviously B-1 is the softest setting you can have, and they go up from there. i'll try and make a list of the softest setting to the stiffest setting for you guys just curious.


B-1 -- 16 degrees
A-1 -- 25 degrees
C-1 -- 34 degrees
B-2 -- 38 degrees
A-2 -- 58 degrees
C-2 -- 69 degrees
B-3 -- 70 degrees
A-3 -- 88 degrees
B-4 -- 92 degrees
C-3 -- 93 degrees
A-4 -- 106 degrees
C-4 -- 120+ degrees


great info right there ! … we should have a permanent FAQ section where things can be added but not replied to by members or visitors [added only by an administrator for security of the info]… guess I should inter the site from the Forum page v/s the home page .. lol seems the FAQ page is there and I haven't been to it in like forever [now where is that blushing smiley ]
 

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The clutch info is in the F.A.Q. section, most of it was provided by Riddler28, and AIRDAM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So from the reading and possible understanding I should clock my clutch spring to like B4 and buy 17 ounce rollers.
Thanks for the input,
Joe
 

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That should do the trick, but your top end may be limited 30 - 35mph.
 

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I'm just guessing on the speed, and RPM's would be 6,000 minimum. I put the light rollers in mine for pushing snow, and it is screaming at 10-15 mph in low! I trail ride mostly, lite mud, maybe puddles 6-10 inches deep. I run 23 gram rollers in mine (EPI Kit), and have not had any issues, never been stuck, but I avoid deep mud! My prowler is a 700 XTX and it came from the factory with 19 gram Red Rollers, top end was 45 - 50 stock. After installing the kit it went to 50-55. Without a full windshield 58! My gear set is a 3.6, 650's came with a 4.0, both have 26 inch tall tires from the factory. I have been playing with the clutch rollers, and put 26 gram rollers in it, lowered the cruse RPM a bunch, lost a little low end response, but great above 30 mph! I think I'd leave the spring as is, and if you have green rollers remove 4 and see how it reacts. Remove every other one to keep it balanced. Short term testing should be alright with only 4 rollers.
 

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New to the forum but been doing lot of reading with lots of good info
I just bought a 2008 650 H1 stock with 30 mudzilla's 850 miles , I have been reading about clocking the clutch and changing the clutch weights.
I will be some mudding and deer hunting, trail riding etc. on this machine.
I am not truly looking for super top speed but with what I have what would be the best set up for me like how many holes to drill in rollers.
Thanks for any help and input for a arctic cat rookie.
Like faimont79 said,I would just go with lighter rollers,my 2006 650H1 come with 23 gram the green rollers,I went with EPI 21 gram rollers,the lighter the roller the more RPM'S your motor will turn,for the price I wouldn't full with drilling them,my thoughts.:)
 

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Great people on here, make it a great forum!
 
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