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New owner here and though I've only had my machine for right at a week I have found a couple issues that I hope you guys could help me with. First is kind of minor and I figure I know what it is, but this thing is hard to start cold. It's as if the choke isn't working. I can pump the throttle about six times and it will try then two more and it starts. This is after sitting for 24 hours in 30* weather so its cold. I figure the choke doesn't work or isn't working properly. Also it looks as if there is an accelerator pump on the drivers side of the carb as viewed from the drivers seat but there is no rod connected to it. Shouldn't there be?

Second is I went for a little ride on Sat with my daughter and after a long ride downhill, approximately .75 to 1 mile long of gravel road, I went to ease on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. I immediately hit it again and it was perfect. I noticed that if I did not touch it for about 20 seconds it would drop to the floor but a second push would bring it back. I eased down the road about another mile and all was good and has been since. I guess I put 20-30 miles on it before this happens with no issues whatsoever until this. It wasn't like the master cylinder was bypassing, in the sense like they do if you hold steady pressure on it, more like there was nothing connected to it at all. This puzzles me greatly and worries me too cause I want to let my kids ride it and by themselves. I checked that the rear caliper was tight as I thought I could hear a rattling noise from back there when tapping the pedal but it's good.

Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you need to bleed the brakes. The rear caliper on these things have a history of being noisy, no harm just annoying. The 650 is a great machine, many owners on this site. I can't help with the carb, but others will help!
 

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Welcome to the site! I used to have to crank mine over several times to get it to start no matter what the temp was until I plugged the carb vent hose that comes out behind the drivers seat. I read where a mechanic suggested to do it so I gave it a try and it starts a heck of a lot easier, just stick a bolt in the hose and leave it, give it a try.
 

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Welcome to the site! I used to have to crank mine over several times to get it to start no matter what the temp was until I plugged the carb vent hose that comes out behind the drivers seat. I read where a mechanic suggested to do it so I gave it a try and it starts a heck of a lot easier, just stick a bolt in the hose and leave it, give it a try.
Do what Mike said here and plug your carb vent line to help with starting. It made a big difference with mine as well. I'm not aware of an accelerator pump on the carb. Just the vacuum pulse fuel pump that feeds it. As far as brakes go, I would bleed it like RD mentioned. You also might put in some dot 5.1 brake fluid for a higher boiling point for less fading. And that is 5.1, NOT 5.0. 5.0 is not compatible with our machines, but 5.1 is. The rear brake on these things suck. I was so tired of the noise on mine that I just eliminated it and went to 4 wheel disc brakes all the way around. However, that option can get pricey if you don't find the right deals.
 

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New owner here and though I've only had my machine for right at a week I have found a couple issues that I hope you guys could help me with. First is kind of minor and I figure I know what it is, but this thing is hard to start cold. It's as if the choke isn't working. I can pump the throttle about six times and it will try then two more and it starts. This is after sitting for 24 hours in 30* weather so its cold. I figure the choke doesn't work or isn't working properly. Also it looks as if there is an accelerator pump on the drivers side of the carb as viewed from the drivers seat but there is no rod connected to it. Shouldn't there be?

Second is I went for a little ride on Sat with my daughter and after a long ride downhill, approximately .75 to 1 mile long of gravel road, I went to ease on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. I immediately hit it again and it was perfect. I noticed that if I did not touch it for about 20 seconds it would drop to the floor but a second push would bring it back. I eased down the road about another mile and all was good and has been since. I guess I put 20-30 miles on it before this happens with no issues whatsoever until this. It wasn't like the master cylinder was bypassing, in the sense like they do if you hold steady pressure on it, more like there was nothing connected to it at all. This puzzles me greatly and worries me too cause I want to let my kids ride it and by themselves. I checked that the rear caliper was tight as I thought I could hear a rattling noise from back there when tapping the pedal but it's good.

Any help would be appreciated!
As for as the rear brake chatter the Rhino's had the same problem,some of the members have replaced the rotor and used EBC brand brakes,and helped the chatter,I also did what outwest did went to 4-wheel disc.$$$$$$
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok guys, thanks for the replies! I will plug the vent hose this evening after I get home from work and see if it helps. Don't completely understand why the vent would help with starting, but if I have learned anything in my time on this Earth it is that weird things happen.

As for the brakes, I don't feel that I experienced brake fade cause I really wasn't using the brakes at all. This long downhill stent that we were on was not real steep and therefore I let the engine do 90% of the work. If the brakes faded from no more than I used them, then this system is complete junk. I also don't think it's air but will give them a good bleed anyways. Thing is, I can go out there right now and the pedal will be rock solid and high and I haven't touched it since Sun night. This was an isolated incident that occurred only going downhill. This is what scares me and puzzles me. "If" there's air in the system, I may not get it on flat ground cause it apparently shows up when the tail is higher than the nose. I actually may have to pull the rear caliper off and use a block of wood inside to bled it like I have in the past with so many atv's that put the bleeder in the wrong place. lol

Little background on me....36 years old. ASE certified tech who worked for Mitsubishi, Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep, Hyundai, GM and I am currently with GM as an assistant service manager. I got tired of the electrical problems that today's vehicles are plagued with so about 3years ago I had the opportunity to take a desk job and here I am. I've been working on cars since I was 17 professionally, but working on engines since I was around 10-11. At 12 I put valves in a Yamaha XT250 by myself, but that's another story. lol.

Either way guys, I appreciate your help and will give all this a shot and let you know what comes of it. I also plan to be on the board a bit to gain some more knowledge nd try to help where I can. ;-)
 

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Great to hear! Look forward to hearing from you on the forum. Hearing about your background is helpful, I myself came out of a Plant Engineering job at a Hospital Network (Spectrum Health), my dad worked at a Pontiac Dealer, and taught me a lot about automobiles! Then Hot Rodding bite me, and its been a ball ever since! I'm retired and 68, but love the ATV/UTV world!
 

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Ok guys, thanks for the replies! I will plug the vent hose this evening after I get home from work and see if it helps. Don't completely understand why the vent would help with starting, but if I have learned anything in my time on this Earth it is that weird things happen.

As for the brakes, I don't feel that I experienced brake fade cause I really wasn't using the brakes at all. This long downhill stent that we were on was not real steep and therefore I let the engine do 90% of the work. If the brakes faded from no more than I used them, then this system is complete junk. I also don't think it's air but will give them a good bleed anyways. Thing is, I can go out there right now and the pedal will be rock solid and high and I haven't touched it since Sun night. This was an isolated incident that occurred only going downhill. This is what scares me and puzzles me. "If" there's air in the system, I may not get it on flat ground cause it apparently shows up when the tail is higher than the nose. I actually may have to pull the rear caliper off and use a block of wood inside to bled it like I have in the past with so many atv's that put the bleeder in the wrong place. lol

Little background on me....36 years old. ASE certified tech who worked for Mitsubishi, Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep, Hyundai, GM and I am currently with GM as an assistant service manager. I got tired of the electrical problems that today's vehicles are plagued with so about 3years ago I had the opportunity to take a desk job and here I am. I've been working on cars since I was 17 professionally, but working on engines since I was around 10-11. At 12 I put valves in a Yamaha XT250 by myself, but that's another story. lol.

Either way guys, I appreciate your help and will give all this a shot and let you know what comes of it. I also plan to be on the board a bit to gain some more knowledge nd try to help where I can. ;-)
That's great knowledge you have glad to have you on the site.The reason for the rear brake chatter on some of the prowlers is because it's on the drive line.If you reach back in there you can move the pads around and there always still rubbing the rotor even when not using the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok a little update. Mike and Shane, I plugged the vent/overflow line and I'll be darned if it didn't make it tons easier to start. Starts like EFI on a cold day now. Thanks for that. As for the brakes, hasn't happened again and that worries me bad.

I loaded it up last Sat and took it to the shop and did an oil change and looked it over well and couldn't find a single thing wrong other than a slight oil leak on the right side cover which I will fix when the weather gets better. The brakes are great at about half pad and no problems at all. This worries me cause I wanna let my kids ride it some by themselves and I can't unless it doesn't happen again for a very long time.
 

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Glad it's working for you also, gotta love those cheap easy fixes.
 

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Ok a little update. Mike and Shane, I plugged the vent/overflow line and I'll be darned if it didn't make it tons easier to start. Starts like EFI on a cold day now. Thanks for that. As for the brakes, hasn't happened again and that worries me bad.

I loaded it up last Sat and took it to the shop and did an oil change and looked it over well and couldn't find a single thing wrong other than a slight oil leak on the right side cover which I will fix when the weather gets better. The brakes are great at about half pad and no problems at all. This worries me cause I wanna let my kids ride it some by themselves and I can't unless it doesn't happen again for a very long time.
Thats great news on the starting,as for as the brakes not sure,makes it hard to figure out when it wont do it again............
 

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either you have a air in the line or a bad master cylinder …
or how long did it sit before you bought it and then used the brakes the first time and was this the first use of the brakes after you bought it. ????

check the rubber lines too to make sure they are sound n not rotted some. [I don't know when they started with braided lines that makes that impossible ]
 

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I do love the cheap easy fixes for sure! lol I just went out and started it to put the plow back on for this snow we're having, and man did it fire right up like it should, nice and easy. I was astonished at how easy it started!

I have a heater core from my Ford Ranger that I need to get a sheet metal box made for and then wire up the two brushless fans to get some heat in that bad boy. I just dug up an old 1500 watt room heater that I will pop in the cab in the AM with a drop cord to thaw the windshield if I need it tomorrow. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
either you have a air in the line or a bad master cylinder …
or how long did it sit before you bought it and then used the brakes the first time and was this the first use of the brakes after you bought it. ????

check the rubber lines too to make sure they are sound n not rotted some. [I don't know when they started with braided lines that makes that impossible ]
Not sure how I missed this post. My lines are braided, master cyl is full, pads are around half and I rode it around the house for 2-3 days pretty hard before we went on that little shakedown run, which is around 1.5 miles of pavement then 5ish miles of going up old logging roads across the mtn followed by around 1.5 ish miles down not too rough road on the other side, and this is where I had my failure. After going downhill for an extended period, and not really using the brakes at all (engine brake was plenty cause we weren't going fast) when I finally need to use it, bam straight to the floor first hit. The first thing I thought was something is sticking and I've boiled the fluid. It hasn't happened again since that day.
 

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Not sure how I missed this post. My lines are braided, master cyl is full, pads are around half and I rode it around the house for 2-3 days pretty hard before we went on that little shakedown run, which is around 1.5 miles of pavement then 5ish miles of going up old logging roads across the mtn followed by around 1.5 ish miles down not too rough road on the other side, and this is where I had my failure. After going downhill for an extended period, and not really using the brakes at all (engine brake was plenty cause we weren't going fast) when I finally need to use it, bam straight to the floor first hit. The first thing I thought was something is sticking and I've boiled the fluid. It hasn't happened again since that day.
I think its gonna need to do it more to ever find it........it might never do it again.:)
 

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I do love the cheap easy fixes for sure! lol I just went out and started it to put the plow back on for this snow we're having, and man did it fire right up like it should, nice and easy. I was astonished at how easy it started!

I have a heater core from my Ford Ranger that I need to get a sheet metal box made for and then wire up the two brushless fans to get some heat in that bad boy. I just dug up an old 1500 watt room heater that I will pop in the cab in the AM with a drop cord to thaw the windshield if I need it tomorrow. lol
Thats great news on how easy it starts,that has been a big issue on this forum for several years,we have tried everything then someone come up with the vent plug.I bought my 2006 brand new and I'm on my 4th battery most of the reason is it took so long too start after it set for several days in the winter,and not using a Maintainer.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good thing is, it's cold out still and the kids are still very busy with cheer so I don't have to worry about it as much right now. This gives me more time to get some hours logged and see if it ever happens again.

I'm excited to start the heater install. I need to get some sheet metal bent up first but that's the easy part. I think by using this heater core, which is for a '94 Ford Ranger if you wanna see one, I should be golden for a good install. Now I need to get on my computer instead of this phone and look up the directions again for how to properly connect the hoses to the engine.
 

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Your going to find different types of hookups folks have tried. Check with Brian he just installed one and should have all the links you need for fittings.

I've got one on mine but might re plumb it like his.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have found a bunch of different "write-up's", but I am looking for some pics too. I don't know that I want to drill and tap my water pump housing....I just don't wanna mess up something that is that expensive to replace.

Who is Brian?
 

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that would be me,,,in the flesh!!! ,,for starters ,let me try to talk you out of doing what will save you a lot of heartache in the long run ,I have 3 friends of mine that tried doing the heater core thing..the problem with that is if you are going to use a bladed fan,its gonna make a lot of noise and not much air,,the amount of work involved is just not worth it,,again,this is just my opinion,,,,just trying to help,,,go on summit racings website and look up heaters,they have 1 for 144 bucks ,that comes with the heater, 3 speed switch mounting brackets and wiring it blows a ton of heat and is very small,,you will have to get a shutoff valve from home depot,5/8 heater hose,and the y fittings you can get on line for 16.95 each at universalparts.com..i also installed a pump for circulation at an idle but you may not need it .I have some pictures under let it begin again this is the easiest way I found,i think the whole thing cost under 300 done instead of the 700 ac wants for the kit ,,,,,,,,,if you need more info.ill be happy to help
 

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