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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know if AC makes a suppliment to their manual that talks about removing and installing the white rear axles? The manual I have kind of mentions it, but talk about vague.

I need to know what position the center lock pin should be in, when the axle is locked. I'm having an issue with one of mine and can't get it to lock in. I'm assuming the center locking pin sits flush with the end of the axle (diff side) when its locked in. But I'm not 100% sure. I think someone beat this thing out and screwed up the locking dealio.
 

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the way the are made you have to push the stock axle in towards the diff to release the clip ... so on aftermarket axles we spot weld a button head on the end of aftermarket axles like yours to push the release pin in towards the diff ... hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hopefully a picture is worth a 1000 words.

THe first pic is with the locking pin flush with the end of the axle.
2nd the pin popped out (back toward the CV)

Question is this: where should this center locking pin be when the axle is locked in to the diff??? Flush like pic 1, or beyond flush - protruding out toward the diff???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is the actual center locking pin. I think this pin should be pushed out beyond the axle when the axle is locked in to place. This is the only thing that makes sense. Then when you want to pull the axle out, you have to push on the center nub to release the locking pins beneath the circlip.

This is how I found my axle :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is what I'm thinking. The locking/release area of the pin needs to kind of center the pins on the axle. To release, you push on the button (cv side). To lock, the locking pin needs to be just past the end of the axle so the springs will keep pressure on the pins beneath the circlip.

Am I misguided?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the way the are made you have to push the stock axle in towards the diff to release the clip ... so on aftermarket axles we spot weld a button head on the end of aftermarket axles like yours to push the release pin in towards the diff ... hope that helps
This makes sense. The axle pushes on the locking pin releasing the 2 pins. YOu have to keep this pressure on it to remove the axle. I found mine with the center pin sitting flush with the end of the axle. The axle pulled right out. I actually pulled the axle out of the cage and installed the CV by itself. But it still wouldn't lock in. I think the center pin/and or locking pins are screwed up.

Pulling an axle is easy actually. You don't even have to unload the springs. Pull the caliper, pull the axle nut, and top bolt and thats it.

You can actually install the axle the same way, but you have to separate the axle from the CV. INstall the CV first, then the axle. Kind of a pain with the CV boot strap, but not too bad.
 

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Well from the pic when the pin is flush that is holding the balls out to lock it and when the pin is in the balls aren't held out, therefore the axle isn't locked.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well from the pic when the pin is flush that is holding the balls out to lock it and when the pin is in the balls aren't held out, therefore the axle isn't locked.
I could be wrong, but I think the pin needs to be beyond flush. This would explain having to hold the axle in to release the pressure on the balls. I don't think flush is correct. The taper on the pin also indicates it should be beyond flush. Thus allowing the spring to keep pressure on the balls. But what do I know, this is my first Prowler :D

I'm hoping that someone who does know chimes in....please.
 

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I dont want to sound like a old man but call me in a couple of hours and ill get the new one I have in my trailer so we can see exactly how it should look
 

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This is the proper location of where the pin should sit ... in this location the balls are pushing the clip out as if it was installed in the diff ....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Johnny. You can definitely see the clip sticking out. Mine won't do that, so I think it's toast. Ordered another one, should be here in a few days.

Since this axle is out, I may go ahead and machine the outer clip groove so a stock Rhino clip will fit without grinding or sanding it. I'll let you know how that goes.

Thanks again!
 

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How Do I Remove the Driveshafts!!!

I recently purchased a used (211 miles) '09 Prowler XTZ 1000. The rear differential has a oil leak which is ticking me off. The guy I bought it from says he had the rear driveshafts/cv's replaced with the new style but I'm not sure he's telling the truth. From what I've read the new style shafts are painted white on the inner cv's but mine are black. Anyway, how the heck do you remove the passenger side rear driveshaft so I can replace the o-ring seal in the differential to stop the oil leak? I've tried yanking on it and thats not working. I've also tried pushing in on the driveshaft while trying to pull out on the inner cv and thats not working either

I've included pic's below. What do you guys suggest other than lighting it on fire and collecting the insurance money. Thanks in advance for you guidance.
 

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So, since I also had the same shop install my HCR kit, I need to check and make sure the axles are installed properly, but I guess I still don't quite understand how the locking mechanism works. How should I check to see if they are installed correctly? Do I just pull outward on them?, and as long as they don't pull out, they are OK? And if I were to remove the axles to inspect the locking mechanism, how do you pull the axle out as long as inward pressure is needed to release the locking pins?:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So, since I also had the same shop install my HCR kit, I need to check and make sure the axles are installed properly, but I guess I still don't quite understand how the locking mechanism works. How should I check to see if they are installed correctly? Do I just pull outward on them?, and as long as they don't pull out, they are OK? And if I were to remove the axles to inspect the locking mechanism, how do you pull the axle out as long as inward pressure is needed to release the locking pins?:confused:
There is a thread here that explains how to remove them. If I were you I would at least check the rears. All you have to do is jack the rear all the way up, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, remove the caliper, remove the spindle upper bolt, flop the spindle down (the outer stub axle will slip out) and then yank on the axle. If it doesn't slip out you're probably ok. If the fronts are not seated right, they will pop out the first time you use the locker.

You might have to unload the shock/coil and remove the bottom so its not in your way. I managed to get mine out with the shock in place. Going back in though I'm going to pop the cv cup in the diff and then install the axle.

I bought some trick brake line clamps. I'm going to drill and tap small holes in the arms to route the brake lines real nice. I'll post up pics when I get that done.
 

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Any Help????????????????????????????????????

I recently purchased a used (211 miles) '09 Prowler XTZ 1000. The rear differential has a oil leak which is ticking me off. The guy I bought it from says he had the rear driveshafts/cv's replaced with the new style but I'm not sure he's telling the truth. From what I've read the new style shafts are painted white on the inner cv's but mine are black. Anyway, how the heck do you remove the passenger side rear driveshaft so I can replace the o-ring seal in the differential to stop the oil leak? I've tried yanking on it and thats not working. I've also tried pushing in on the driveshaft while trying to pull out on the inner cv and thats not working either

I've included pic's below. What do you guys suggest other than lighting it on fire and collecting the insurance money. Thanks in advance for you guidance.
I didn't get any replies. Can anyone help me out with this???????? See my post above for photos of what I have. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I didn't get any replies. Can anyone help me out with this???????? See my post above for photos of what I have. Thanks
Ok thread jacker ;)

To remove the rear axle fromt the diff, assuming you've already removed the caliper, axle nut, and spindle etc. You can try 2 things. Push the axle in toward the diff (it will slide in to the cup) you must press very hard. While continuing to press, pull on the cup, it should slide out. If this doesn't work. Open up the boot on the large end. Pull it over the axle. Inside the cup there is a large clip. Remove the clip and the axle will come out while leaving the cup in the diff. You then must shove something (long socket extension 1/2 drive for example) in to the center of the cup. You should feel a spring sensation. While holding tension pull the cup from the diff.
 

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Rv Rat, this is assuming that I have the new style axle correct? The cups I have are not painted white so I think they are the old style which you only have to pull (hard) to remove. I've pulled as hard as I can to remove them. Is there a slide hammer adapter that I can use or another trick to removing them?

FYI I had to hijack this thread cause nobody was answering my other post on this same question. This isn't a very active forum and I am trying to get help any way I can. Thanks
 
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