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Couldn't get off the ice this morning. No 4x4. UGH ....... What am I in for now? It's obvious the seal is out, not sure how long it's been like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Couldn't get off the ice this morning. No 4x4. UGH ....... What am I in for now? It's obvious the seal is out, not sure how long it's been like this.
Front differential, 2010 XTZ 1000
 

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Maybe the axle just popped out. The retaining rings on the axles loose tension over time, and allow the axle to slip out. I caught mine when I spotted oil/grease leak under the front end! The seal looked fine, but replaced in and the ring. No other issues! About 15.00 dollars in parts!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Maybe the axle just popped out. The retaining rings on the axles loose tension over time, and allow the axle to slip out. I caught mine when I spotted oil/grease leak under the front end! The seal looked fine, but replaced in and the ring. No other issues! About 15.00 dollars in parts!


Same thing I noticed, black grease, popped the boot off. Seems like the shaft is real loose now that the wheel and shock are out of the way??? Kind of flops around.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is what I found. Crack in the boot, cir-clip was on the end of the shaft but sloppy and easily popped off. Trying to figure out how to get the shaft off the end of the axel next.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is what I found. Crack in the boot, cir-clip was on the end of the shaft but sloppy and easily popped off. Trying to figure out how to get the shaft off the end of the axel next.
The boot wasn't popped off, it appears the shaft popped out of the case like Fairmont stated! SO WHAT HOLDS IT IN?
 

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My guess its that the c-clip failed and it poped out. Guess you didnt notice and the one thing led to another (the rubber boot broke and spilled grease, and somehowe the seal went out as well). As said, just a guess.
Another scenario in my mind might be an overfilled diff, and somehowe the preassure made the seal move out, and then a weak c-clip failed.
Anyway, I guess you need an new axle. Maybe a new seal. Dont know. Take a good look at it. Not too expensive for you guys living in the USA. Broke my left front axle this weekend as well. Buying a new one for aprox 250 usd at my local shop..
Good luck on your repair. 2wd aint good at christmas times.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After seeing yor new pic you dont need a new axle (just a new rubber boot and grease), unless its broken.
Yes sir, ducked a bullet this time Johan! The shaft looks fine. I almost ordered a new shaft just to have my old one for a spare at 98.00 for the assy shipped! for the boot, grease, cir-clip, and bands it was 11.00 shipped........now I wait :)
I think the boot was torn by a stick prior to this.
 

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Glad it turned out to be a simple fix! Let us know how easy it is to get her back together
 

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Just a heads up, you can buy a new CV Joint, but it is almost as cheap to buy a complete axle! I think I priced a CV Joint at 99.00 dollars, and a complete axle at 108.00! The prices for Prowler stuff is all over the board! Pays to shop around!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just a heads up, you can buy a new CV Joint, but it is almost as cheap to buy a complete axle! I think I priced a CV Joint at 99.00 dollars, and a complete axle at 108.00! The prices for Prowler stuff is all over the board! Pays to shop around!
I hear ya Fairmont.........I think my biggest issue was the wore out cir-clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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The worn out clip was the cause on mine! Damn 25 cent part! LOL
 

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Had the same thing happen to my right front axle, new clip fixed the problem.
 

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I just swapped out my left rear axle a few minutes ago while puting the factory wheels back on. Had a clicking noise in it. I replaced the right rear with a new axle a few months ago and kept the old as a spare. Glad I did. The noise changed. So I'm gonna buy a couple of repack kits and repack both of the old ones. Boots are fine, but the grease isn't around the balls of the cv joint any more and is very runny. Super easy to swap out the rears! Maybe 10 minutes after pulling the wheels. Torquing that ***** to 200 sure isn't easy. Plus my Torque wrench only goes to 150. Figure thats close enough. 150 click, a little more and an elbow pop. 200!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just swapped out my left rear axle a few minutes ago while puting the factory wheels back on. Had a clicking noise in it. I replaced the right rear with a new axle a few months ago and kept the old as a spare. Glad I did. The noise changed. So I'm gonna buy a couple of repack kits and repack both of the old ones. Boots are fine, but the grease isn't around the balls of the cv joint any more and is very runny. Super easy to swap out the rears! Maybe 10 minutes after pulling the wheels. Torquing that ***** to 200 sure isn't easy. Plus my Torque wrench only goes to 150. Figure thats close enough. 150 click, a little more and an elbow pop. 200!
I see an ad on ebay where you can buy 2 rear axels for 138.00 on eBay! Heck of a deal.
I'm in the middle of installing my tracks and found my right rear outside wheel bearing is in rough shape. Took the clip off the outside and can't see one inside the boot. Any tip on how to pull that outside bearing? Looked in the manual online and can't find it in there either. :eek:
 

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Remove the Knuckle, remove the snap ring on the outside of the knuckle, and press the bearing out. Axle should slde out of the knuckle with little or no effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Remove the Knuckle, remove the snap ring on the outside of the knuckle, and press the bearing out. Axle should slde out of the knuckle with little or no effort.
I see your snap ring is still on the outside end of the wheel bearing in your photos!
I can't get the knuckle off the shaft.
 

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They collect moisture overtime, I had to tap one out with a rubber mallet. Once the axle nut is removed, there is nothing to hold the axle in the knuckle. Mine had surface rust on one side, and the other side slipped out! If your axle is still in the knuckle try and tap it out, our use a puller to push it out.
 
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