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Hi a quick question is there suppose to be any slack in the from pulley for the drive belt....not the clutch but the front pulley... I have abit of slack I can move it in an out a slight bit maybe a little over an 1/8 of an inch....need help...thanks
 

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Hi a quick question is there suppose to be any slack in the from pulley for the drive belt....not the clutch but the front pulley... I have abit of slack I can move it in an out a slight bit maybe a little over an 1/8 of an inch....need help...thanks
Hang in there markflow,I didn't take mine apart last time,someone will chime in and help you out.
 

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thanks de3
I just watched a youtube video and there looks like there is up and down play on the belt,what seems to be wrong with it besides the 1/8'' of play it don't look like you would be able to pull the belt towards the front of the machine it should be held kinda tight on the secondary pulley.
 

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I don't have any play in my front pulley, is it the whole assembly, or just the outer plate? The whole assembly should not move. Outer plate rides on the helix.
 

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I don't have any play in my front pulley, is it the whole assembly, or just the outer plate? The whole assembly should not move. Outer plate rides on the helix.
RD,I think he is meaning he has slack in the belt,as in being able to pull the belt a 1/8'' towards the front of the prowler from the pulley.I think.
 

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i sure do hope its normal because mines had about 1/16" to 1/8" play since it was new. ive had my clutch apart probably 25 times and theres always a little play in and out.
 

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i sure do hope its normal because mines had about 1/16" to 1/8" play since it was new. ive had my clutch apart probably 25 times and theres always a little play in and out.
Thats good to know.great info DJ:)
 

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you may want to pull youre primary apart also and see if there is any flat spots on the rollers, and blow out the inside of the clutch case with compressed air so you can get rid of all the silt and old belt material. and i started applying a really light grease to the fixed sheave and the movable sheave where they contact, seems to help with making the shifting more predictable., and clean the inside of the primary where it ides on the crank with only soap and water so you dont break down the felt that it rides on, then scuff both primary and secondary sheaves with a red scotch bright till all the black from the old belt is gone and all thats left is shiny aluminum, and also check for cracks or pitting in the sheaves.
 

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I would also check the clutch air intake and exhaust tubes for belt fragments! I kept getting pieces falling into my new belt and clutches. couldn't understand where it was coming from until the last time I pulled it apart. cost me a new belt within a couple of hrs. Yes....I learned the hard (expensive way).. Tom
 

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I would also check the clutch air intake and exhaust tubes for belt fragments! I kept getting pieces falling into my new belt and clutches. couldn't understand where it was coming from until the last time I pulled it apart. cost me a new belt within a couple of hrs. Yes....I learned the hard (expensive way).. Tom
Tom,did you get your snorkel kit yet,how do you like your new front rotors and front pads from evolution motorsports,is your rear brakes chattering with the new A/C rotor.
 

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should have the snorkel kit tomorrow. It was shipped on Monday. He sent me a 142 jet. (like waiting for Christmas!) I think you have me confused with someone else as far as the rotors go? .....But I did learn something last weekend! I went down a real steep mountain while scouting for Elk, and left it in 4 low, instead of 2 low. It held back a lot better and never even came close to overheating brakes! The only thing I can think of it that I had better traction? always thought it wouldn't make a difference as long as I was in Low. Wish I would have figured it out about 5 yrs. ago! lol
 

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should have the snorkel kit tomorrow. It was shipped on Monday. He sent me a 142 jet. (like waiting for Christmas!) I think you have me confused with someone else as far as the rotors go? .....But I did learn something last weekend! I went down a real steep mountain while scouting for Elk, and left it in 4 low, instead of 2 low. It held back a lot better and never even came close to overheating brakes! The only thing I can think of it that I had better traction? always thought it wouldn't make a difference as long as I was in Low. Wish I would have figured it out about 5 yrs. ago! lol
LOL I probably am confused, most of the time I am...........Yea 4-wheel drive low makes a difference.:)
 

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should have the snorkel kit tomorrow. It was shipped on Monday. He sent me a 142 jet. (like waiting for Christmas!) I think you have me confused with someone else as far as the rotors go? .....But I did learn something last weekend! I went down a real steep mountain while scouting for Elk, and left it in 4 low, instead of 2 low. It held back a lot better and never even came close to overheating brakes! The only thing I can think of it that I had better traction? always thought it wouldn't make a difference as long as I was in Low. Wish I would have figured it out about 5 yrs. ago! lol
Your thru-shaft in the motor (shaft that connects to both your drive lines) is all linked together as one. So if your back is turning so is your front. So the only difference when having it in 4wd is that you now add the resistance of the front differential gearing into the mix rather than your front drive line free spinning.
 

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and you were much easier on the belt using low :)

now try 4 low locked out for size LOL
 

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10-4. Never gave it much thought earlier. makes sense now! just figured low was low and compression was the same. I went down hill in 2 low for easier steering. Gary has a good point about diff lock as well. There would be more resistance due to more moving parts......Gary, let me know where your at in Reno, and Ill stop by and have a beer and introduce myself. I work there, and live in Fernley...Tom
 

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Thanks Shane. Did you get a chance to install your priming lever yet?
 
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