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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to repaint the back deck of my trailer and have been looking to find a great, long-lasting coating that will be durable enough to withstand weather (we get all 4 seasons here) and abuse. My flatbed trailer is lumber, not plywood. So far, I've looked into the following:

1) Truck bed liner: Rust-oleum, Rhino Liner, Linex etc. I've read mixed reviews.
Pros: adds a nice, anti-skid coating and withstands weather.
Cons: Some say theyve had problems with it flaking badly over time.

2) Rust-Oleum Epoxy Sheild:
Pros: Tough as nails, oil and stain resistant
Cons: Read a lot of arcticles where guys have painted wood with it and had a lot of feedback from others on the threads saying it will crack and chip as it is too hard and won't handle the flex in trailers. Problem is, nobody that did it actually followed up on their post to say how well it was holding up.

3) Valspar Duramax exterior paint:
Pros: much cheaper than either of the above options. Rolls on well. Weather resistant and you can add silicone sand to give it some anti-skid.
Cons: Durability. I've never had a deck paint last more than 1-2 seasons even using the expensive stuff.

I've also been kicking around the idea of just cutting some good outdoor plywood and screwing it down over the deck. This will give me a good, clean surface to roll on some Epoxy Sheild and a much smoother surface to use the deck as a patio for my table and chairs. I've used it in my garage and the stuff is amazing.

Thoughts? Ideas?
 

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IMHO not much will work .. it's wood and open to Ma Nature , and once you start doing the painting you'll never be able to stop as it will look like hell :(

another issue is the bottom side and also rot from the bottom , and it allows moisture in so the top won't stick well for long .. I have used Linseed Oil and diesel mixed 2 to 1 mix [2 being linseed] .. but that won't work for you as it will track inside and smells like crapola

our northern climate isn't conducive to flat surface wood and paint /sealers as you know .... maybe a better idea would be armor plate aluminum and replace the rotted wood under the plate when ya need to ??
 

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IMHO not much will work .. it's wood and open to Ma Nature , and once you start doing the painting you'll never be able to stop as it will look like hell :(

another issue is the bottom side and also rot from the bottom , and it allows moisture in so the top won't stick well for long .. I have used Linseed Oil and diesel mixed 2 to 1 mix [2 being linseed] .. but that won't work for you as it will track inside and smells like crapola

our northern climate isn't conducive to flat surface wood and paint /sealers as you know .... maybe a better idea would be armor plate aluminum and replace the rotted wood under the plate when ya need to ??
I have a buddy of mine that paints his trailer floor,It dont last very long.my trailer has 2x8s for the floor,I just paint it with cheap motor oil once a year.you will also track it in your camper.
 

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Have you seen a product called restore ? Its kind of like rhino lining for wood.
Home Depot & Lowes have it. Kind of spendy. But if you dont have to do it again
it might be worth it.
 

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Al's Liner, I am going to try it on my Pontoon Boat w/PT Decking instead of that crappy outdoor carpet. May have to still wait a bit because there is still snow on the ground here...
 

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IMHO not much will work .. it's wood and open to Ma Nature , and once you start doing the painting you'll never be able to stop as it will look like hell :(

another issue is the bottom side and also rot from the bottom , and it allows moisture in so the top won't stick well for long .. I have used Linseed Oil and diesel mixed 2 to 1 mix [2 being linseed] .. but that won't work for you as it will track inside and smells like crapola

our northern climate isn't conducive to flat surface wood and paint /sealers as you know .... maybe a better idea would be armor plate aluminum and replace the rotted wood under the plate when ya need to ??
...I agree it's wood exposed to the elements. I just use treated lumber and the wood outlast the bolts that hold it, guess I could use stainless bolts , but regular bolts are fine with me.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After doing some more research, I'm going to try that Rust-oleum RESTORE. Turns out, it's the same stuff my youngest brother did his deck with at his house on Whidbey Island. Has held up really well to the elements and heavy traffic. Roots Rents has industrial deck sanders for $39/day so I'll pick up one to sand the surface down a bit to smooth out the surface and remove the oil and grime. Also, all the consumer reviews have been very positive about it. Gonna pick up a 3 gal bucket of it ($89) which is rated for 100 sq/ft.
 

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After doing some more research, I'm going to try that Rust-oleum RESTORE. Turns out, it's the same stuff my youngest brother did his deck with at his house on Whidbey Island. Has held up really well to the elements and heavy traffic. Roots Rents has industrial deck sanders for $39/day so I'll pick up one to sand the surface down a bit to smooth out the surface and remove the oil and grime. Also, all the consumer reviews have been very positive about it. Gonna pick up a 3 gal bucket of it ($89) which is rated for 100 sq/ft.
Rust-oleum makes some very good products.:)
 

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hope it works out for you , keep us posted on it. eventually I'll have to redo the deck on my 25' gooseneck trailer and would like to find a good product also. but I'll have to wait til I replace the wood as it's got several coats of the linseed/diesel mix and am sure nothing will stick to that as it's in the wood fiber now
 

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hope it works out for you , keep us posted on it. eventually I'll have to redo the deck on my 25' gooseneck trailer and would like to find a good product also. but I'll have to wait til I replace the wood as it's got several coats of the linseed/diesel mix and am sure nothing will stick to that as it's in the wood fiber now
Gary,how long did your floor last using your mix and was your floor treated lumber.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I actually changed my mind and decided to pick up the new DUPLICOLOR BED ARMOR. It's advertised as being great for metal, fiberglass and wood. My brother used the spray can version for his Teryx doors he made and really likes it. I'm picking up the 1 gallon kit with roller (said to be good for 100 sq/ft). Has a nice texture for grip.
 

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I actually changed my mind and decided to pick up the new DUPLICOLOR BED ARMOR. It's advertised as being great for metal, fiberglass and wood. My brother used the spray can version for his Teryx doors he made and really likes it. I'm picking up the 1 gallon kit with roller (said to be good for 100 sq/ft). Has a nice texture for grip.
Do you have to do any prep to the wood floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm picking up a deck sander. Tates Rents and Roots Rents has them for like $39/day. I just want to make sure I give it a good, clean surface to adhere to. There are a few oil spots that I want to take down to reduce the chance of flaking.
 

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Gary,how long did your floor last using your mix and was your floor treated lumber.
it's still on there in reasonable shape .. but eventually will need help from the winters we have it's only time til it goes south.
as to treated lumber I believe most deck wood is treated [purchased as deck wood] .. maybe not , but it was real dry before I started treating it this way.
 

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it's still on there in reasonable shape .. but eventually will need help from the winters we have it's only time til it goes south.
as to treated lumber I believe most deck wood is treated [purchased as deck wood] .. maybe not , but it was real dry before I started treating it this way.
Yea I think on deck boards they recommend 1 year before painting or staining.
 
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