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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 Prowler 650 and read many posts about the bevel gears in the engine case. i have the spherical gears and considering installing upgrade kit number 0822-146 because I'm thinking they are causing the VERY LOAD HIGH PITCH WHINE when accelerating and under load. Soon as I let off gas it quits (rpm I can hear it from about 20 to 40 mph. I just want to confirm doing this again since I recently rebuilt motor...fried rod bearing-low oil:( , The gears looked fine. Replaced primary clutch and belt. It was doing it before rebuild as well. Mostly I read about broken gears because of hard riding or big wheels but not the high pitch whine. Been wearing ear protection!

Thanks for any help out there!
 

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Welcome to the forum! Did you replace the oil pump driven gear with the rebuild? The 2007 650 has a history of the gear stripping, it happened to me.
 

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Gear whine can be contributed to backlash clearance due to wear. AC has different shims for setting up the gears. Upgrading is a great idea if you plan on keeping your Prowler!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No I didn't unfortunately however I noticed the snap ring was bent from gear hitting slot for pin. I did replace oil pump but put an Eclip on instead. Didn't see the upgrade till after reassembly, didn't see any tooth problem. Im posting a vid of the sound. thanks for reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Noisy Prowler

The video can be found at Arctic Chat that I posted there. This site wont let be post URL link
Same Pointman handle


When it was apart I just pulled secondary shaft out and checked bearings. They were good put did replace bearing on pinion but old was good after realizing the outside bearing cap supports the short shaft. Didn't realize washer was a shim, now I see it in manual!

Wondering why AC upgraded gears? Noise? breaking teeth? Cant order them on AC sites but found them only at Cat Country.


Ya your right it depends if I keep it. Got $1600 in it since rebuild. Got FM ear muffs but noise does take the fun out of it. Thank you reply.
 

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Here's what my oil pump gear looked like, at the time it had around 3000 miles on it.
 

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Here's what my oil pump gear looked like, at the time it had around 3000 miles on it.
might also explain where the gear metal and junk ended up
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Up date Removed one way bearing. Did not make a difference. Guess Im back to bevel gears replacement and setting proper backlash. A dealer told me they all make that much noise when they got lots of miles.
 

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Split my case, found the shim to be 1.05 on mine, next size larger is 1.10 this will decrease the backlash. I have over 10,000 miles on my 700 XTX.
 

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Once you get over the intimidation factor on going inside the motor for the first time it is really easy to work on. The service manual is great and outlines everything you need to know! I clean my cases with carb cleaner to cut the grease/oil residue, then hot soapy water to scrub. Once rinsed, I carb clean again, then dry all surfaces. I hate working on a dirty motor! LOL Besides when I bring it in the house, mama insists on it being clean! LOL
 

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I have three special tools for my cat! Case Splitter (El Cheapo out of Rocky Mountain Motorsports) Flywheel puller from Cat, and a differential pinon socket. The case splitter was the lowest cost one from RMM, but it is built to last! The flywheel could be removed without the special AC tool, but at 35 bucks I figured what the heck!
 

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Finally got the shim I needed! 1.10mm, and it decreased the backlash as needed! Case going back together now. Just fired up the bearing heater (150watt light bulb! LOL), Great day to work in the shop! I pointed out the shim locations, one on the main shaft is to set the tooth contact pattern, and the other is to set the backlash on the bevel gear. Mine has the new style gear set. AC has two different engine numbers that dictate what gear set is used from the factory (650/700)
 

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I can't wait to hear what the noise level difference is. I think when its time to do a whole rebuild, I'm pulling mine and sending it your way. Those towers of gears and shafts stacked in there are kind of intimidating!
 

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Believe it or not, the gears come out as a complete assembly! The shaft that supports the shift arms is fool proof on putting it back together as the shift arms will only go in one way! The main shaft lifts out as a total package so no issues there. Intimidation again halts many from diving in! LOL If you send one to me, I hope it is in AZ! The crankshaft, and counter weight are very well marked with alignment marks, so it is almost fool proof, but like anything else we could FUBAR it if we try hard! LOL I'm heating the crankshaft bearing now! Have to admit, this is the second time I've put this case together! Buttoned it up the first time and discover a broken bolt in one of the 8mm holes! Thank the good lord for easy outs, heat, and penetrating oil! Back on track now! Chased all the threaded holes (which I should have done the first time! ME BAD), and cleaned all of the bolts! I think the wrong length bolt was put in the wrong place causing it to bottom out and snap off! Can you say it SUCKS! LOL
 

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Some more low buck approach for a tool! AC suggests coating the crankshaft bearing with oil, apply a hand torch to the bearing and when it starts smoking it is reading for the cases to be joined. I use a 150 watt light bulb to heat mine. The light bulb only seems to heat the inner race! Really works great! I put the bulb under the bearing, turn it on, then apply the hi-temp sealant to the case. Once it is hot, the cases slip together nicely! No Muss, No Fuss!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good job. Ya I learned the hard way by not using gasket remover (wire wheel bad mistake) Spent hours cleaning my mess but did get it together and its running. It would be interesting if backlash adjustment would of helped my noisy prowler.
 

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I remove the sealant and clean the surface using carb cleaner, and a scotch-brite. After the case is put back together, the excess sealant usually just flakes off after completely curing.
 

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Putting it all back together! From start to finish would more than likely entail 10-12 labor hours. Being a FOG it takes me 30 hours! Seems like every time I start one thing, I get sidetracked doing 3 more! I keep each different area of the engine in different spots, first thing off the motor are farthest away on the bench, just reverse the order putting it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Sounds looks like your having a good time. Dont forget that shim that goes back on center bearing. Good idea to chase out threads. I didn't on counter balance end gear bolt. The left over locktite helped me break bolt off!

Also my intake valves had a ridge on the valve seat itself. Dealer told me that from sucking dirt! We lapped them and they were fine for 8000 miles. I ran a air intake tube toward front on motor with a pre filter instead of behind the cab where dust is flying!

Do you have the upgrade oil pump gear?
 
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