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Discussion Starter #1
can u get the belt off the clutches without removing them. u can open the secondary with a screw will the slip off or not
 

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can u get the belt off the clutches without removing them. u can open the secondary with a screw will the slip off or not
I couldnt on my 700 and the shop manual says you have to pull off the primary. At least on my 09 700.
 

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I couldnt on my 700 and the shop manual says you have to pull off the primary. At least on my 09 700.
You have to remove the primary on all of them to change the belt
 

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Discussion Starter #4
what do u have to have to change one? I had to use a impact to get the primary off and when I put it back it said to use lock tight. how do u hold the primary from turning so u can use a braker bar? I am going on a week trip and was just wanting some info if anything happened.
 

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what do u have to have to change one? I had to use a impact to get the primary off and when I put it back it said to use lock tight. how do u hold the primary from turning so u can use a braker bar? I am going on a week trip and was just wanting some info if anything happened.
The only thing i do is put lock tight (red) on the threads and hammer it tite with a impact, give a wile so the lock tight can dry and your good to go
 

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The only thing i do is put lock tight (red) on the threads and hammer it tite with a impact, give a wile so the lock tight can dry and your good to go
you may want to rethink loctite red as it requires heat to release and i wouldn't want to heat my clutches.also if the threads are in aluminum red may damage the threads if removed without heat .
just went and checked the loctite web site red heat release then hand tools
blue hand tool removable blue was recommended for regular removal situations red for more permanent bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you may want to rethink loctite red as it requires heat to release and i wouldn't want to heat my clutches.also if the threads are in aluminum red may damage the threads if removed without heat .
just went and checked the loctite web site red heat release then hand tools
blue hand tool removable blue was recommended for regular removal situations red for more permanent bolts
yes when I put it back together I used blue after reading about it it has a 1000-2000 psi shere and dont need heat
 

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yes when I put it back together I used blue after reading about it it has a 1000-2000 psi shere and dont need heat
Shop manual says Red but I use the Blue.
 

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The threads arnt aluminum. Manual says red. You can just use a impact to loosen red. Ive done it alot. But the blue would do the job. Do not use green...
 

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mine had red on it when i took it apart. I used red when i put it back together,so i hope i can get it off. Thats what airdam advises.
 

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the clutches are RED from the factory, and when you put them back together you should ONLY USE RED. you dont have to have heat to get them back off, you just need an impact. the torque from an impact will break the red loctites bind however the blue can vibrate loose. the shaft in the primary can get SUPER hot, and it will melt the blue fairly easily and allow the nut to back off. seen it happen thats why i only reccomend using the RED. you will not be able to get the nut off after using the red with simple hand tools, it will require an impact so dont think you're gonna change out the clutch on the trail. and why would you think that would even be necessary. once you put them on, with a new belt, you should have thousands of miles before you need to open it back up again


oh and in closing, the belt has writing and a yellow arrow on it. be sure to face the arrow towards the smaller pulley with the writing facing out towards you when installing the belt.
 

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it points in the direction the belt travels. the clutches run clockwise when viewing them with the larger pulley on your left and the smaller pulley on your right. the arrow faces the direction the belt turns. i dont particularly know why its a one-way only thing but i am sure they designed the belt to travel in only one direction otherwise they would not have arrows on it and say only install it "this way"


i dont make the rules i just follow them.
 

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It really doesn't matter which way it goes on the first time but needs to ruin the same direction after the inital install.
 

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if you were able to slip the belt over your front set of sheaves without taking anything off, something is wrong. the belt was WAY overstretched and longer than stock, or something else was wrong. you cant take the belt off without removing the outter half of the primary unless you had some other variable going on that i am not aware of.
 

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if you were able to slip the belt over your front set of sheaves without taking anything off, something is wrong. the belt was WAY overstretched and longer than stock, or something else was wrong. you cant take the belt off without removing the outter half of the primary unless you had some other variable going on that i am not aware of.
Just like my old Cat quad with a Suzy motor, threaded in the longer case bolt to seperate the pullys then slip the belt off to the rear of the motor (front of prowler). It will not come off from the other way. Then slipped the new one back on, that was a little snug but not bad. I read this method somewhere about my quad and assumed it was same for prowler, did the procedure with no problems and have put a few hours on it since without a problem. The outer pully moves away from the case enough to allow the belt to slip through. I'm pretty sure that's the whole point of seperating the pullys with the case bolt.
 
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