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I've been having problems with the battery either not holding a charge or getting charged. I took it to advanced and had them test it and their machine said it was good just needed charged. So I put it on one of those slow battery tender chargers. That seemed to work for a few days but then after a day of riding it was dead again. I put a voltmeter on while it was idling and got 12.13. I pulled the positive wire off whle it was running and it ran fine. Makes me think its just a bad battery but like I said, advanced claims its good. any ideas?
 

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Sounds like the battery to me.
 

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I think iit should read higher at idle. Mine reads 13.8 when I am at idle. with all of my lights and radios on I read 12.4. Could be the stator. I am not as bright on electrical as sandchris is but just wanted to through that out there.
 

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You may have a shorted cell in the battery causing is to drain it's self. Some times after a charge a battery will pass a standard Carbon pile load test. Newer digital load testers do a great job checking the performance of the battery. Once you have ruled out the battery below are a few things to check.


The regulator/rectifier is located under the driver’s
seat next to the battery. Try to verify all other charging
system components before the regulator/rectifier
is replaced.
TESTING
1. Start engine and warm up to normal operating
temperatures; then connect a multimeter (set at
the DC Voltage position) to the battery as follows.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery
post and the black tester lead to the negative
battery post.
3. Slowly increase RPM. The voltage should
increase with the engine RPM to a maximum of
15.5 DC volts.


��
NOTE: If voltage rises above 15.5 DC volts, the
regulator is faulty or a battery connection is loose
or corroded. Clean and tighten battery connections
or replace the regulator/rectifier. If voltage
does not rise, check Voltage (Charging Coil - No
Load) in this section. If charging coil voltage is
normal, replace the regulator/rectifier

VOLTAGE (Charging Coil - Output)​
1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery
post; then connect the black tester lead to
the negative battery post.​
3. With the engine running at a constant 5000 RPM
(with the headlights on), the meter must show​
14-15.5 DC volts

VOLTAGE
(Stator Coil - No Load)​
The connector is the black and white one on the
right side of the engine just above the brake cable
adjuster.​
��​
NOTE: Test the connector that comes from the
engine.

1. Set the meter selector to the AC Voltage position.
2. Test between the three black wires for a total of
three tests.
3. With the engine running at the specified RPM,
all wire tests must be within specification.​
��​
NOTE: If both charging coil tests failed, check all
connections, etc., and test again. If no voltage is
present, replace the stator assembly.





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One other thing to check is the ground. Mine was loose and had to constantly charge the battery. Once it was running it was ok, but if I shut it off, it would not start back up. I used a lock nuck and new bolt to connection at battery, used two ground wires, one to stock location and another to a different bolt on clutch cover and have never had an issue since.
 

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trust me i had this headache not to long ago. just take the battery out and scrape the terminals on the battery and the cable really really good. mine was doing all the same things. i even chocked it up to a bad starter soilinoid. once i got my buddy over he said: did you clean the terminals. i said yes. he said good? he really dug into the terminals and bam!!! instant starting. i felt like an ass. i have not had any problems since. i hunt in a very deep and wet area. the mud made a film over the terminals. it just made a poor connection.
 
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