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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, new to the forum. I have a 08 700 XTX(silver one). 4000 kms. I pretty much do not have 2 whl drive. 4 wheel drive works perfect. Put the machine in 2 whl drive, the engine revs up, belt squeals and machine jumps ahead. You can feather the pedal to get it going but when you let off the gas, fells like the transmision is in neatrul and you coast along. Then the transmision rengages and the back wheels skid. My question is transmision or clutch? This has been a gradual issue. Bran new belt does nothing. Thought I would get some advise before I start tearing apart.
 

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Sounds like you have a bad rear turf save diff.
 

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joe and i had the exact problem, rev it up, finally catches, throws you in your seat, and when you let off at speed it just coasts, finally catches and wants to throw you over the hood, theres 3 ways of fixing this...joe went with a later model rear end that deletes the turf-saver, this involves new ring gear, new half axle shafts, seals and usually might as well do bearings, other option that i opted for since im a welder is to build a jig to keep everything straight, and weld youre current setup together, alot cheaper than previous option, but to each theyre own, i guess joe would be struck by lightning if it was sunny out...j/k joe. other option would be to put a new turf-saver back in to the tune of 900.00$ in parts. joe can get you part numbers for replacing with later model parts, i can weld youre current setup, or you can foot a $900.00 note.
 

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YEP! Turf Saver!! Had the same problem on mine when I first got it. Luckily I came across a guy whose engine was blown and he was parting the rest of his machine out so I got the rear end. If I would have had the knowledge of what Joe did when this happened to me I would have gone the route of deleting it! Still may do it one day!
 

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Yep.. I think it's one of those deals like alot of companies. They know people aren't going to let their 10k machine sit and rott because of a 1k differential so they see an oppurtunity for a money maker!
 

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I have no experience with a turf saver differential, but I have some experience rebuilding a motor. Maybe to test their theory on the differential you could disconnect the driveshaft to the rear to eliminate the differential, put on jackstands (guess with the driveshaft off you don't even need to worry about this as long as you are out of 4wd), and drive it that way. If the engine and transmission are fine it will still spin the rear output shaft of the motor (just tape up your yoke if you have a u-joint so it doesn't bang around). And if you do have a problem in the motor you should still notice an issue. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good idea's gentlemen, great idea's actually. I happen to have a couple of welders in my shop. I'm thinking it will be a lengthy process to have someone explain to me what to do??? Yes I am going to remove the drive shaft to eliminate the transmision/cluth thought. Can someone try to explain to me the procedure involving the welder senario. I'm pretty sure my manual shows part by part of the rear diff mabe someone could tell me to weld 6475 to 9474..you know what I mean??

Thanks gentlemen, I was about to start rippin & tearin
 

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Good idea's gentlemen, great idea's actually. I happen to have a couple of welders in my shop. I'm thinking it will be a lengthy process to have someone explain to me what to do??? Yes I am going to remove the drive shaft to eliminate the transmision/cluth thought. Can someone try to explain to me the procedure involving the welder senario. I'm pretty sure my manual shows part by part of the rear diff mabe someone could tell me to weld 6475 to 9474..you know what I mean??

Thanks gentlemen, I was about to start rippin & tearin
I have a spare carrier i well pull apart tonight and take some pictures, the Carrier is all welded together so have a grinding wheel with a flapper disc available, I'll post the pictures under this topic in the forum for you.
 

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I have a spare carrier i well pull apart tonight and take some pictures, the Carrier is all welded together so have a grinding wheel with a flapper disc available, I'll post the pictures under this topic in the forum for you.
Good Man! Great Help
 

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heres some pics of how the carrier looks, and how to disassemble...
 

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as you can tell in the last picture these are the clutch packs, this carrier was from joes5091 and there was no clutch material left on the rings, you can also see how theyre blued from getting hot, when i weld this one up il take pictures this time. also the small welds that hold the pin in place are what fails and wreaks havoc on youre cases, for preventitive measures everyone should pull front and rear carriers and weld this pin all the way around, also if youre thinking of welding it yourself dont use a mig welder, this is hardened steel and needs the penetration of a good tig weld to last.
 

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theres supposed to be clutch material on the second ring...my carrier was exactly the same as this one. though theres part numbers on every single piece in the carrier, you cannot buy these parts anywhere, arctic cat only sells the whole carrier so there is no breakdown of single parts...
 

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as you can tell in the last picture these are the clutch packs, this carrier was from joes5091 and there was no clutch material left on the rings, you can also see how theyre blued from getting hot, when i weld this one up il take pictures this time. also the small welds that hold the pin in place are what fails and wreaks havoc on youre cases, for preventitive measures everyone should pull front and rear carriers and weld this pin all the way around, also if youre thinking of welding it yourself dont use a mig welder, this is hardened steel and needs the penetration of a good tig weld to last.
I had the pin welded all the way around on my front differential when I had it apart as it was recommended to me. Guess I'll have to try and have the rear done on mine at some point as well....
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Welding that pin in place eliminates turf saver problems? I have not taken rear end apart YET! Do you weld it on both ends? Yoy have been a great help, Thank you! After paying more attention I see I will need to see the clutch plated welded together
 

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Welding that pin in place eliminates turf saver problems? I have not taken rear end apart YET! Do you weld it on both ends? Yoy have been a great help, Thank you! After paying more attention I see I will need to see the clutch plated welded together

Yes you weld that pin on both ends. But No, welding that pin does not eliminate turf saver problems. The tack weld job on those pins will often break apart, and if that pin slides out you will grenade your differential. So it is the weak point of the differential. So by completely welding it, you are just helping prevent that from happening. The turf saver mod is a whole other ball game.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Perfect, Thank you! So how does one eliminate the turf saver? Sept 20/12 I just priced out part # 0502-777 ( rear drive gearcase assembly) here in Canada...$1700! Supposedly the stoer told me the part # is the same for the 08's & 09 xtx.
 
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