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I have an 09' 550 Prowler and use it primarily for plowing. Was wondering if there were any preferable clutch kits to use.
 

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Same here! Clutch work is the best modification going for the cost involved.
 

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I'm going to change my clutch and belt in the next few weeks. Since I bought this used with 1200 miles on it, I'm not sure of their condition. Plus the reverse to forward shift its getting worse. Takes 10 to 30 seconds for it to engage sometimes and when backing up on the highway blading, it feels like a life time! I'm going to be going to 28-30" tires after I wear out my Pro-Comps. Do you think the Sport Utility kit would be fine for the bigger tires, when I get them? Who makes the best belt? Dayco, Gates, G-Force, EPI... So many out there. Or should we just stick with the OEM A/C belt? Been thinking about a belt temp gauge too. They want $150 bucks for the kit. I think just a regular temp gauge and sending unit from Jegs for $35.00 would work just fine. Thanks guys!
 

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EPI makes a sport utility kit designed for larger than stock tires. Belts are like oil! I used a stock belt, and an EPI belt, I did not notice any difference between the two. My stock belt was changed out at 2,500 miles and it did not show any signs of wear. My gear shift gets stiff at times, and if I have pushed snow into a bank and there is a load against the plow it really gets difficult. I bleep the throttle and it helps. I now raise the blade at the end of a push and works great! I spoke with EPI regarding my Prowler, I told them I was going to 28" tires and they said to go down 2 grams per roller, then I told them about engine mods and they said go up 2 grams!
 

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If it's idled too high, will that affect the ability to shift?
 

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Idle speed will impact shifting. Square cut gears, and no snycro rings, sure wish we could shift on the fly!
 

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Idle speed will impact shifting. Square cut gears, and no snycro rings, sure wish we could shift on the fly!
That could be his hard shifting issue. I know the chinese buggies I run have the same issue. When trying to get into reverse, you had to blip the throttle, and then while it was coming back down, shift into reverse.
 

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Mines not HARD to shift, unless I am at a bind like mentioned above. It just takes a few seconds to engage. Remember how the old Muncie 4 speeds acted when the syncros were going out? You would get that grind into gear? It would kind of "wind down", then fall in? That's kind of what I get. I know there are no syncros in our Prowlers. But that's the sound and feel. It just does it once in awhile, but is getting more frequent. It was suggested that the rollers may be getting flat. So I figured I would just do a clutch kit and belt. Hopefully that takes care of it. I know where the clutch intake air inlet is, but where is the outlet? I want to check it for belt debris. I was going to pull the cover and just check it, but if I take the cover off, I may as well just do it and be done with it.
 

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I don't see how the rollers being flat would affect your shifting. I've seen the internal shifting mechanism 1st hand, and it was tricky in itself to shift without anything else linked to it. I think just the nature of their design.
 

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I agree with outwest, flat spotted rollers will effect the clutch engagement, but nothing else. The gear sets are the the culprit, but it is the nature of the beast!
 

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That's good enough for me! I'll check it all out when I take it apart for the clutch kit and belt! If this was a car, truck or boat problem, I'ld have it licked in no time. But my Prowler is a whole new learning experience!
Thanks Guys!
 

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It took me awhile to figure out these things! This site was most helpful on finding solutions, and troubleshooting! After 3 years, and many teardowns, I think I'm getting the hang of it! I can't do the same work I did 15 years ago! The Prowler provides me with a machine that I can work on without killing myself!
 

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I don't see how the rollers being flat would affect your shifting. I've seen the internal shifting mechanism 1st hand, and it was tricky in itself to shift without anything else linked to it. I think just the nature of their design.
Shane why would it take a few seconds to en-gauge...I think he needs to adjust his shift linkage........and make sure the idle is not set to high.....
 

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I'm going to change my clutch and belt in the next few weeks. Since I bought this used with 1200 miles on it, I'm not sure of their condition. Plus the reverse to forward shift its getting worse. Takes 10 to 30 seconds for it to engage sometimes and when backing up on the highway blading, it feels like a life time! I'm going to be going to 28-30" tires after I wear out my Pro-Comps. Do you think the Sport Utility kit would be fine for the bigger tires, when I get them? Who makes the best belt? Dayco, Gates, G-Force, EPI... So many out there. Or should we just stick with the OEM A/C belt? Been thinking about a belt temp gauge too. They want $150 bucks for the kit. I think just a regular temp gauge and sending unit from Jegs for $35.00 would work just fine. Thanks guys!
Bryan you could go with a temp gauge and a sending unit from jegs,I think fairmont79 did the same.just make sure its a electric set up......I went with the Alba Racing belt gauge.....I'm sure they would both read really close,I know my sending unit is what they call a digital sending unit.....on the EPI clutch they make a sport utility for stock tires///// a sport utility for 28'' tires////// and a mudder set up......as for as the Belt I would just get an OEM one....I know on the other brand sxs's they say to use the OEM Belt.
 

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Shane why would it take a few seconds to en-gauge...I think he needs to adjust his shift linkage........and make sure the idle is not set to high.....
I would start with this.
 

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I did use a Temp gage for my belt temp, it is an autometer procomp oil temp gage, electric sending type. It also monitors my engine oil temp by using a DTSP switch. I usually see 180 on the belt temp, and 220 on oil temp BTW!
 

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I did use a Temp gage for my belt temp, it is an autometer procomp oil temp gage, electric sending type. It also monitors my engine oil temp by using a DTSP switch. I usually see 180 on the belt temp, and 220 on oil temp BTW!
Wow!......I would not have thought the oil temp would be that high, especially being water cooled.
 

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Yes it is, but you actually want the oil temp above the water boiling point to boil off any moisture, running to cold is almost as bad as running to hot! I've seen it as high as 270, but that was with the top end suffering from lack of oil. Again synthetics can handle much more heat than conventional oils. Anything above 240 and I start backing it down and look for a problem.
 
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