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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here are a couple of teaser pictures of my brake conversion. Haven't finished yet since I'm waiting on one rotor and a few bolts. The cost ended up being a lot less than I was originally expecting since I found used parts or new parts at clearance prices. Most everything I picked up at 1/2 price or less. Plus I've already made up some of the $$$ by selling the parts I took off. Pretty happy so far, but still need to get it on the trail. In the end I may have somewhere in the $200's wrapped up into this. For those of you considering it you can do it for affordable, but it will take some searching, patience, and negotiating. Bye bye driveline brake..... :D More details to come.....
 

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Nice job. Looks like it fits up great and you will have awesome stopping power now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Todd. I'm expecting it to work out really well. And no more driveline brake chatter for good now. I installed my custom brake lines minus the one for the other wheel. Frustrating, I'm ready to finish it, but I have to wait until I pick up my other rotor hopefully on Monday......
 

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brakes

looks really good,you wont have to worry about brake chatter. i will get a hold of you and get some part numbers so i can get started on mine,mine is still quiet but it would make a good winter project.again looks sweet.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here are a list of parts to convert a Prowler to Prowler 1000 4 wheel brake setup.......

There are exceptions to the parts listed below as I did not use all of these parts. I'll describe in more detail in a minute....... I also did not list the exact qty. needed such as crush washers and banjo bolts because you can use these off of your original brake setup.


Part# Description Qty.
0504-613 Rear knuckles 2
1436-164 Rear brake rotors 2
0423-557 Screws to bolt brake rotors to hubs 8
1502-437 Rear wheel hub w/ studs 2
1436-422 Complete right brake caliper w/ pads 1
1436-423 Complete left brake caliper w/ pads 1
1402-845 Brake hose from MC to both wheels 1
0423-413 Banjo bolts for MC and both calipers 1
0423-178 Crush washers for MC and both calipers 2
8408-821 Bolts to mount caliper to knuckles 4
 

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Nicely done and thanks for helping the membership and saving the hassle and leg work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So here are some further details and exceptions to list above.

1. Prowler 1000 knuckles bolt right up. No modifications needed. These might be your toughest part to find used....
2. I believe you can use any Prowler FRONT brake calipers. The parts listed above are for rear calipers off of a 1000. However, you can use front calipers from any Prowler, but then you need to use the larger front rotors as well. The only difference between the front and rear wheel calipers is the fronts use a deeper mounting bracket than the rears do to account for the larger rotor. I ended up using front brake calipers, and ended up purchasing the front brake rotors off of a 1000 as well. Part# is 1436-418 and they are cheap around $25-$30 a piece. This part# also comes with the bolts to mount the calipers to the knuckles. (They are supposed to be for mounting the rotor, but they are the wrong size for the hubs. Not sure what Arctic Cat did there, but they include the correct bolts to mount the calipers. So if you go this route it will save you a couple $$$.
3. Prowler 1000 rear wheel hubs are the same as what is used on the Thundercat 1000 ATV's. So if you find a set of those used, they are the same as what is on the rear of the Prowler 1000. Don't quote me on this, but I also believe that any Prowler wheel hub that has the rotor mounting holes (basically any Front wheel hub) will likely work. And if you are handy with a drill and tap you can drill and tap your current hubs to mount the rotors. Just make sure you have it centered.
4. The OEM brake like is like $135. I special ordered my 3 piece steel braided brake line from a company called Techna-Fit for like $65 shipped. The dimensions of the 3 pieces are as follows. The main line from the MC is 82.5" end to end. The two lines going to the wheels I went with 36" end to end on each one, but you are probably good with anything 33"-36". And it came with a mountable T-block to tie in all the lines.
5. And like I said earlier, use whatever you can off of your old setup such as the banjo bolts and crush washers. The bolts that mount the driveline rotor are the same bolts that mount the rotors at the wheels. So you can use those as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I know this conversion is not for everyone. If you were to purchase all of these items brand new from a dealer it would cost you a little over $1000. I purchased some used items and some new. I just did a lot of web surfing and found parts and negotiated good deals. It cost me less than $500 for the whole conversion. Plus I've sold some of the items I took off already. So in the end I'll likely have somewhere in the $200's wrapped up in this. So with a little bit of web surfing, negotiating, patience, and a little bit of luck you can arrange to do it for a somewhat affordable price.

Anybody has any questions feel free to ask..... I'll try to help in any way I can or give my opinon on something if anybody else is considering this conversion..... eBay will be your friend on this one, and don't be afraid to negotiate better deals on there.
 

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brakes

great work..........................:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Here are a couple of pictures with the custom brake lines from Techna-Fit. I paid around $65 shipped for the 3 piece set. Main line is 82.5" end to end. Two side lines are 36" end to end, but you could go a little shorter on the side lines. Probably anything 33"-36" depending on how you want it routed.
 

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wow great job on the conversion.. so do you still have an emergency brake with this setup?
 

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Man that looks nice... I just thought of a way for you to make your fortune! An Arctic Cat Prowler Rear Disk Brake Conversion Kit by Out West! Sounds sweet doesn't it!!!! lol... I'd buy it!
 

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I want one too!! haha
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
wow great job on the conversion.. so do you still have an emergency brake with this setup?
I don't yet. But right now I'm considering a hydraulic Park Lock setup like I've linked below . I've done some searching and others have had good luck with it. And it doesn't appear to be too expensive. So I'll likely go with it. But I'm not in any giant rush for it at the moment. I don't usually park it on too many inclines or declines where I don't have a tree stump or something in front of it or behind it anyways. But I'll likely purchase it and see if I can mount it to where the old emergency foot brake did. And I'll likely have Techna-Fit make me some custom lines for it since they were pretty affordable to work with.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=947
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I took it for a test drive around the block today with the new 4 wheel disc brakes. It works nice. It stops great, but a little squeaky right now. I think I just need to get everything broken in. The best part of it is there is no more brake chatter, and that is what I was primarily after. So I'm excited about that......:D
 

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brakes

thats great outwest,they will smooth out when they get broke in.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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Discussion Starter #19
Well heading out on an elk hunt this weekend. Wish me and the Prowler luck. This will be the first true test for the Prowler after rebuilding the motor and converting the brakes.....
 

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Good luck! hope you find a nice elk and the prowler is there to help you haul it out!
 
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