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Mine chatters when hard braking, kind of sounds like abs chatter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Well we all know mine is doing the chatter. The anti-rattle springs took care of noise while I was driving as I could physically see the pads jockying while driving. But it did not take care of the brake chatter while braking. Summary of what I have done with no luck eliminating the noise (unless I disconnected the rear brake).

1. Replaced rotor with OEM rear rotor ($90 :mad:) and installed new EBC severe duty brake pads. Installed modified, stiffer version of the anti-rattle springs. Result: No change, still had the braking chatter. Sounds like the motor is going to brake gears or something.

2. Took out the one way bearing and tested it. Result: No change, still had the braking chatter. Sounds like the motor is going to break gears or something.

3. Disconnected the rear brake by disconnecting the brake line at the master cylinder. Test drove it in both 2wd and 4wd with just the front brakes. Result: NO Brake noise. It was gone. Did not sound like my motor was going to break gears.


I'm probably more sensitive about this issue than most because I just finished replacing the bevel gears in this machine and these are my first rides ever with the Prowler. I believe I did everything correctly in the motor. In fact the motor seems to run and drive great. No abnormal noises or anything. Shifts fine, etc. Only issue is when I brake which come to find out is a common issue. Some respected members of various forums have told me it is the nature of the beast having a driveline brake. Told it doesn't hurt anything, but it still scares me. I'm tired of throwing parts at it in "hopes" of fixing it. So I'm seriously contemplating eliminating it and converting to 4 wheel disc brakes. I know more expensive, but in the end it will more than likely eliminate the problem.....
 

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Thought,
Regardless of how much brake pad slop(round guide pin to square hole in pads) with a non warped true rotor I don't see how the chatter noise is developed.
With mounting hardware tight and nothing bent while braking you may hear a clunk when the pads shift up or down when you in reverese or forward but it has to be a rotor problem.

I talk to sandchris and he mentioned his 650 did it to. He changed his rotor only and the chatter was fixed. At some point some one left the ebrake on and warped the rotor then the chatter came back. So I really feel this all starts at the rotor. Warped or hot spots causing the pads to jump all around while braking hard. The mounting flange could cause the rotor to wabble also.



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Thought,
Regardless of how much brake pad slop(round guide pin to square hole in pads) with a non warped true rotor I don't see how the chatter noise is developed.
With mounting hardware tight and nothing bent while braking you may hear a clunk when the pads shift up or down when you in reverese or forward but it has to be a rotor problem.

I talk to sandchris and he mentioned his 650 did it to. He changed his rotor only and the chatter was fixed. At some point some one left the ebrake on and warped the rotor then the chatter came back. So I really feel this all starts at the rotor. Warped or hot spots causing the pads to jump all around while braking hard.
My rotor is new and still does it. Worrysome to me as the noise seems to resonate through the motor. For obvious reasons that concernes me. I'm to the point I'm just going to drive with front brakes only to at least get some hrs on my motor to test reliability.

Very weird situation why some people have it and some people don't. I have heard that some people have had it since their Prowler was new. Why some parts fix it and some don't?:confused: Seems there is no rhyme or reason to it. Which is the reason eliminating the driveline brake is becoming the best option to me.... At least if I'm going to throw $$$ and parts at it, I'm more likely to fix it with brakes at the wheels.
 

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Seems like having the driveline brake would put a hell of a stress on the motor. I've seen the inner most workings of these motors and all the gear meshing. Seems like a lot of force that the driveline brake would put on the motor suddently locking the driveline and everything in the motor?
 

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Before you spend $$$ I would ask some XTZ owners if they have any issues with the 4 wheel brakes. A new rotor does not mean it's true! How true can they make a stamped rotor?
Good point....

Alright Prowler 1000 owners with 4 wheel discs, do you guys/gals have any issues (noises, etc.) with your brake setups?
 

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It is but I have seen these machines run 10,000 miles without any motor work.
The Rhino's have the same brake chatter problems. There rotor is even thinner than the Prowler. I am just wondering how true your new rotor is?
I'm not sure. I can try putting a straight edge acrossed it and see. I don't have anything high tech to check it with.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I would take to a machine shop and have them put in a lathe and check it for you. FYI I tried to cut my old rotor and it was to hard and would not cut smooth. Another great option is to take to a machine shop that can surface fly wheels and ask them to surface the rotor then you know it's true. Until we have a known true rotor and the make sure the mounting flange is not bent I feel strongly this is the major culperate.



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No noise from my front or rear brakes. The brakes are not great though. I think Arctic Cat should have used a 4 piston caliper for some more stopping power.
 

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My drive line brake (Parking Brake).
Makes noise if the drive-line is turning, Pretty sloppy in there I will probably look into it this winter when I have to change out my frame!
Waiting on the warranty dept. to come back and give to OK on a new frame.

Some how the upper rear diff mounts cracked completely off on drivers side and 1/2 way up on the pass side.

2011 XTZ with 780 miles.
 

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My drive line brake (Parking Brake).
Makes noise if the drive-line is turning, Pretty sloppy in there I will probably look into it this winter when I have to change out my frame!
Waiting on the warranty dept. to come back and give to OK on a new frame.

Some how the upper rear diff mounts cracked completely off on drivers side and 1/2 way up on the pass side.

2011 XTZ with 780 miles.
What about your 4 wheel brakes on your 1000? Any abnormal braking noise with the 4 wheel brakes?
 

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no all noise is from the driveline brake "parking" 99% sure.
Will get you the pic's, just got off night shift and trying to get normal again.
 

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no all noise is from the driveline brake "parking" 99% sure.
Will get you the pic's, just got off night shift and trying to get normal again.
Thanks riddler. Other than the cost, the 4 wheel brake conversion is getting more and more appealing to me. I'm probably in too deep with this Prowler now and will just keep it a long time. Even if this brake noise is somewhat of a common thing, I still wouldn't feel right passing it on to somebody else. So I guess I might as well make it right for me.
 

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my XTZ is not having any brake issues either with drive line or 4 wheel service brakes .. I'm at +/- 5000 miles now a 2009 model bought right before winter in 2009 ... in fact first ride was in deep snow ... we do get out on a ride now and then LOL
in fact my brakes are way better than my good friends Rhino ... don't experience the brake fade like he does on very long very steep down hills. and I have no complaints as to the stopping ability on mine.
I'm done for the season though this year as I'm now down in Reno, going to pass on hunting season this year and get my very bad knees worked over this winter down here. so I'll be offline a bunch this next 6 months or so.
Have a great fall riding guys, and hunting season too .. save me an Elk and big ol mule deer too .. ok lol
 

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My drive line brake (Parking Brake).
Makes noise if the drive-line is turning, Pretty sloppy in there I will probably look into it this winter when I have to change out my frame!
Waiting on the warranty dept. to come back and give to OK on a new frame.

Some how the upper rear diff mounts cracked completely off on drivers side and 1/2 way up on the pass side.

2011 XTZ with 780 miles.
This happened to someone I know with an HDX
 

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Im sorry guys But I think Seth is correct on the rotor part of the Basics should be to check it installed with a dial indicator I didnt do it because in my years working for GM and FORD never had a bad rotor from the factory on a new car so didnt think AC would so I think the spring and hose is just a band aid that works for most but not all I am going to check my rotor with a dial indicator.
 
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