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I have a prowler 1000 and am making upgrades to it and am interested in a little help from the guys who have been there and done that when it comes to Utv's
Here is what I would like to know I remember back when I had a rhino some people talked about that on the higher hp setups using a dry clutch was the only way to go. I am wondering if this is true and why they are better what kind of gains are there what is the advantage.

I ride pretty much only the dunes and with the mods I will have when finished expect 70+ whp.
 

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I have a prowler 1000 and am making upgrades to it and am interested in a little help from the guys who have been there and done that when it comes to Utv's
Here is what I would like to know I remember back when I had a rhino some people talked about that on the higher hp setups using a dry clutch was the only way to go. I am wondering if this is true and why they are better what kind of gains are there what is the advantage.

I ride pretty much only the dunes and with the mods I will have when finished expect 70+ whp.
THe 1000xtz has a internal wet clutch like the rhino and it will slip. How much HP will it take before it slips we will soon see.
 

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No one seems to know yet what the xtz wet clutch will put up with over time.As far as 70 hp. to the rear wheels that should be 90-95 at the crank.And 70 at the rear wheels is only 15-20 more than stock depending on what or who's dyno you go by.I would think that it will put up with that.
As far as the dry clutch the only one I have seen so far is the comet 103 for the prowler.They are noisy but work pretty good.They have a 8500 rpm limit though.Lots of different weight and spring set ups available for them.The weights can get kinda pricey though.And the adjustable weights are pricey.Very easy to tune in my opinion with the cover off.Talking with a few snow mobile guys though that have told me the comet 103 is a toy really.But they did say they were better than what i had which was stock rotax dry style clutch.I have experienced huge gains with the comet and some other changes.Of course now that this one is almost dialed in they are coming out with a new one that is 100 times better than the comet i bought.
I will say one of the things i was getting wrong and did not understand was belt slippage.Belt slippage is why the rzr runs so good out of the hole.They are sacrificing belt longivity for the hole shot.Rzr's go through belts in the dunes if they are being pushed hard.It is funny when you go into these utv shops how many belts these guys have in stock for the rzr.The real cool thing is if you start making some horse power with your utv and you get the belt tension right to where you don't have much belt slippage how much more power gets to the ground.And the belts last much longer.And the clutch componets do not get burning hot.
I don't know if I would worry about the dry clutch yet if i was making 70 at the tire.I think I would try it first and watch the belt for wear,rubber smells,jerky starts that kinda stuff.Of course if it just does not have enough belt pressure it could over power the belt clutch set up and be on the rev limiter all the time.



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I forgot to tell you the cool thing about the dry clutch is the ability to change what some would call the stall speed or the rpm needed to actually make the utv start to move.By changing the primary spring you can change this rpm.A stiffer spring will raise this rpm.And enough clutch weight will not let the belt slip to much.I don't know what is the sweet spot for a modded or stock xtz rpm wise.But I will guess and say it could be improved over stock.
So with the right stall speed and clutch weight you just smoked that rzr out of the hole.I don't mean by a couple of feet.I mean by a cart length or two.



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