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Discussion Starter #1
My 2008 650 Prowler Cat has terrible corrosion issues IMHO because it never received any undercoating! The hollow tubing's are certainly not painted inside... There is practically no spot on the frame where I don't have corrosion. I have tried to mitigate it by wire brushing the rust and loose paint off and applying red lead paint before re-painting, but I note new areas where the paint flakes off and the frame members are rusting.

Have looked into the new 1000cc model where a statement is made that the paint matches automotive quality, but like to know if this applies only to the finish or do newer Cat's have a coating system right down to the preparation of the metal before painting, undercoating, and layers of top coats?
I use my cat daily near the ocean and this aspect is a deciding factor for any new purchase.

I have not seen any thread on this issue and hope somebody can chime in what Arctic Cat are doing. I would pay extra if the frame would first be galvanized.....
 

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Mine had some rust on it.. I bet they all do, One thing I did to fix mine up was I sanded all the rust spots and sprayed all exposed parts of my frame with bed liner. The same type thats used to coat pickup truck beds, It's really tough coating and it looks even better than the stock paint. You can also buy end caps to seal them up and keep mud out of the frame. For me I just took some extra time to clean out the mud to prevent corrosion.
 

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Also living by the ocean is not gonna help matters either,I also have the frame plugs 6 total,takes forever to hose the mud out of those tubes,I have had some flaking around the welds,I just touch it up with a paint marker..........sounds like you have a more severe problem,like I said salt water will work on it.I like Mitch's Idea...................:)
 

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My 2008 650 Prowler Cat has terrible corrosion issues IMHO because it never received any undercoating! The hollow tubing's are certainly not painted inside... There is practically no spot on the frame where I don't have corrosion. I have tried to mitigate it by wire brushing the rust and loose paint off and applying red lead paint before re-painting, but I note new areas where the paint flakes off and the frame members are rusting.

Have looked into the new 1000cc model where a statement is made that the paint matches automotive quality, but like to know if this applies only to the finish or do newer Cat's have a coating system right down to the preparation of the metal before painting, undercoating, and layers of top coats?
I use my cat daily near the ocean and this aspect is a deciding factor for any new purchase.

I have not seen any thread on this issue and hope somebody can chime in what Arctic Cat are doing. I would pay extra if the frame would first be galvanized.....
The automotive style paint is only the plastic.but I'm not sure if the frame is dipped or sprayed.
 

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Powder coated frame, but no signs of any primer, or sealed inside the frame members, I used automotive undercoating on the main frame rails, any body shop should have the equipment, just need a wand extension, or do it yourself with tubing. I have used a clean hand oil can to shoot primer in areas that I was concerned about, they shoot a good distance!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks like the Polaris Ranger does also NOT have a better paint system than Arctic Cat. What a shame. Will follow suggestions of using end caps silicone in place after cleaning and drying out the hollow frames. May have to strip the cat and do what you guy's have done! It would probably only cost a couple of dollars more to have a better coating system.

Thanks for your replies, Manfred
 

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Looks like the Polaris Ranger does also NOT have a better paint system than Arctic Cat. What a shame. Will follow suggestions of using end caps silicone in place after cleaning and drying out the hollow frames. May have to strip the cat and do what you guy's have done! It would probably only cost a couple of dollars more to have a better coating system.

Thanks for your replies, Manfred
Keep us posted on you progress.:)
 

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You guys that have frame plugs I could see where your getting the issues. The plugs aren't allowing the water to run back out. My 13 xtz doesn't have them. And I just hose them out after a ride on an incline takes like 10 seconds a piece.

Personal opinion the frames rather work for yah or against yah. Depends on your riding habits.
 

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You guys that have frame plugs I could see where your getting the issues. The plugs aren't allowing the water to run back out. My 13 xtz doesn't have them. And I just hose them out after a ride on an incline takes like 10 seconds a piece.

Personal opinion the frames rather work for yah or against yah. Depends on your riding habits.
Chaz On my side frame rails I have them front and back,no mud can get in.:)
 

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Chaz On my side frame rails I have them front and back,no mud can get in.:)

I don't mind hosing out the mud, I know water can't just sit in there. And cause the corrosion from the inside out. Would be my big worry.
 

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I don't mind hosing out the mud, I know water can't just sit in there. And cause the corrosion from the inside out. Would be my big worry.
You might have a point,I have not taken one out to see if there is any water in there,I know the stuff in my garage draws moisture,sometimes anything that is metel will have water on it:(
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Mu concern is, that firstly these hollow tubes are NOT paint protected, thus rust will start quickly, even if you hose these members out. What I'll try is to buy the plastic end pieces. After having cleaned the tube members and dried them out, install the end caps with silicone to stop any water or dirt from entering. Only problem I have is the moisture in the air and high temperature changes. Somehow I think as air expands and contracts, it still will find it's way into these tube members and deposit during cool down periods the moisture it had as water inside. This water then has no way to get out and carries on corroding......:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just had a thought after my previous tread. Why not clean these members as best as possible inside, Cover them on the inside with good corrosion paint (containing zinc or lead) and weld the ends shut, so NO air can enter or get out.
 

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I used a high zinc primer/sealer, and also put the plastic plugs in. The lower frame members did have light surface rust, I used a rust converter after cleaning the insides, and applied the primer/sealer. Primer by itself is porous unless it contains a sealer. Welding the plugs would work
 
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