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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know what causes the Prowler to be so hard-shifting at times. I've had problems with this before, such as when leaving in gear and trailering the machine. When you go to shift into reverse to drive off the trailer you have to jam it hard. This weekend I got a set of tracks for my machine and took it out today for about a 3 mile drive through fairly deep snow. I noticed it was very hard to shift when I turned around to head home. When I got home it wouldn't shift at all. Took off the center console cover and the metal tab linkage that is welded to the axle that rotates to operate the shift cable had bent over from all the force on it (it's a very cheesy 1/8 in or less thick metal tab). It had fatigued from flexing and ended up breaking when I tried to straighten it out. I can weld it back on and weld reinforcing tabs around it to make it stiffer and less prone to bending and fatigue but I'm wondering why it takes so much force to shift the transmission at times. This has nothing to do with adjustment of the shift mechanism so that it is in the correct R-N-H-L selection. That part I have adjusted before with no problem. The machine is a 09 550 flatbed with the same cable shift linkages as the XTX (not like the XT).
 

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I had similar issues with my 550.. especially when trailering.. it was similar to parking an auto trans. car on a hill, it's called torque lock on a car.. not sure if it would be the same thing or not with the prowler. The biggest thing to remember is to not try and force it in either gear (as tempting as it may be). What worked for me was to either rock it front to back (if possible) or to give it just a small shot of gas and try and move it.. don't rev the engine up a lot, just enough to hear a small difference over idle. Colder weather sometimes made it even more difficult too for some reason, so let it get good and warm before shifting. I'm not a real expert but I wouldn't recommend beafing up the linkeage too much as you may break something more expensive down the line. I think it's engineered to bend before it takes out the goods inside the tranny.

Hope this helps,
M
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestions. I don't think it's an idle issue since it doesn't do this all the time.

I'm thinking it is wind-up in the system somewhere as you get with axle wind-up. I'll try the rocking trick. I put the repaired shaft portion of the shift linkage (under the console) back in last night but now I can't connect the cable at the shift arm stud. When I first got the machine I had a problem with this, only then I couldn't get the machine in reverse. Tried adjusting like the service manual says ("loosen nuts A and B and adjust the cable housing to align the throttle (sic) cable end to the shift arm stud"). I could never see where there was any adjustment in the cable housing so I just rotated the shift arm stud clockwise one notch (splined shaft). That took care of the problem. Now I have to rotate the shift arm stud one more notch to reconnect the cable. The problem is that when shifted into L the shift arm stud is at the 6:00 position and there is no mechanical advantage to shift back up (can't turn over to counterclockwise because the cable is pushing straight into the shaft instead of off-center). I'm going to wait until I have daylight to work in again at the end of the week to see if there is something I'm missing on the "adjust cable housing" thing.
 

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They do shift harder with the tracks on there is just no give anywhere with them rocking helps or pull out of gear while letting off on throttle
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The mystery of the cable adjustment is solved. The service manual is in error when it describes the adjustment of the cable housing down by the shift arm stud coming off the transmission. The adjustment is actually on the opposite end of the cable up by the console. I talked to the dealer who I bought the tracks from and his service guy figured it out. Problem solved and everything is working again. The dealer said the same thing with regards to the shift sticking as others have said here. Rocking the machine or revving very slightly can help with the stiff shifting. The longest throw with least mechanical advantage for the cable to push the shift arm stud is when the transmission is in L. So that is where the hardest shifting is. I seldom run the machine in low with tires so the problem hasn't been that pronounced before. When running with tracks I find L works best so there is more problem with the shifting.
Thanks for the advice. I'll try it out this weekend.
 
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