[mlh1962]

I'm running this one: Yamaha Sea Doo Kawasaki Super Jet Ski 550 650 750 Fuel Gas Tank Check Valve New | eBay

I know it works too, because I tested it before I installed it. Our fuel connections are 1/4". I also switched out my carb fuel line to a fuel friendly clear line as well. So I can physically see if the fuel is in the line now.

Thanks got it ordered!

 

[de3]

I thought the check valve wouldn't work properly with your aftermarket carb? I have a check valve on my stock carb now, but haven't been able to start my Prowler in a while..... Hopefully this week if I get the time to put everything back together.

Yea it works great,I installed it between the tank and fuel pump,I didn't think it was gonna work,but I found the problem.I have a float bowl cup on the bottom of my carb so you can change jets with out taking off carb,the o-ring around it was leaking fuel and draining float bowl,now with just the gas in float bowl is enough gas to keep it running until it picks up the fuel pump.

 

[mlh1962]

According to my confirmation email it should be here May 2nd.

 

[de3]

According to my confirmation email it should be here May 2nd.

Do already have a filter,where you gonna put your check valve.

 

[mlh1962]

Do already have a filter,where you gonna put your check valve.

Don't have a filter yet and I'm open to suggestions as to where the best place to put the check valve.

 

[de3]

Don't have a filter yet and I'm open to suggestions as to where the best place to put the check valve.

Between the gas tank and fuel pump,that way it keeps your fuel pump primed.IT will work great.not only that it wont drain your float bowl.

 

[mlh1962]

Between the gas tank and fuel pump,that way it keeps your fuel pump primed.IT will work great.not only that it wont drain your float bowl.

That's where I'll start, where did you put the filter?

 

[de3]

That's where I'll start, where did you put the filter?

My fuel filter and check valve is combined,and its reusable just take it apart and clean it.

 

[out west]

I have my check valve between the pump and the carb. If that doesn't work well, I'll switch it to where Mike put his. I already have an inline fuel filter installed between my fuel tank and my pump.

 

[de3]

I have my check valve between the pump and the carb. If that doesn't work well, I'll switch it to where Mike put his. I already have an inline fuel filter installed between my fuel tank and my pump.

I might be wrong Shane but I think the gas will drain from the pump back into the tank,but it should keep gas in the float bowl.

 

[out west]

I might be wrong Shane but I think the gas will drain from the pump back into the tank,but it should keep gas in the float bowl.

I have a clear inline fuel filter on the line running from my tank to the pump. I can see fuel in that filter still. So maybe a vacuum effect still keeps some fuel in that line. I'll let my Prowler sit for long periods and see if it starts easier with where I have my check valve now. If not, I'll move it to before the pump.

 

[mlh1962]

Check valve installed between the tank & pump, now if I could only let it set for a few days to see how well it works....not going to happen this week.

 

[out west]

Check valve installed between the tank & pump, now if I could only let it set for a few days to see how well it works....not going to happen this week.

So what's the verdict Mike? Did you notice any large improvement?

I have my check valve between the pump and carb along with clear fuel line. I can see the fuel in the line. So I know the carb is full. It seems to have improved the starting some, but still not what I would like it to be. I've been debating moving the check valve to before the pump like you Mike's. I just don't see why it would be any different since I can already see the carb has fuel. But worth a shot if you guys are seeing a big difference.

 

[mlh1962]

It seemed to help, I did have a couple times that it cranked several times before it started but most of the time it starts with the first crank. I have a clear fuel line also but haven't pulled the engine cover off since I installed it.

 

[de3]

So what's the verdict Mike? Did you notice any large improvement?

I have my check valve between the pump and carb along with clear fuel line. I can see the fuel in the line. So I know the carb is full. It seems to have improved the starting some, but still not what I would like it to be. I've been debating moving the check valve to before the pump like you Mike's. I just don't see why it would be any different since I can already see the carb has fuel. But worth a shot if you guys are seeing a big difference.

Shane I would try and put it between the tank and fuel pump.to bad you can't get to the primer on your carb,without taking off the dog house.since I got my fuel leak fixed it don't matter how long it sits now.with this weather now, I don't even have to pull the choke.

 

[mlh1962]

Here's a couple videos one from last night and the other this morning. I did seem to take a few more cranks this morning than usual. You can also see the difference in oil pressure from a hot engine & cold, my sending unit is connected to the low pressure side coming out of the oil cooler.
Last Night
Arctic Cat Prowler Media Gallery - Message
This Morning
Arctic Cat Prowler Media Gallery - Message

 

[de3]

Here's a couple videos one from last night and the other this morning. I did seem to take a few more cranks this morning than usual. You can also see the difference in oil pressure from a hot engine & cold, my sending unit is connected to the low pressure side coming out of the oil cooler.
Last Night
Arctic Cat Prowler Media Gallery - Message
This Morning
Arctic Cat Prowler Media Gallery - Message

I dont understand that,mine just sat for 3 days and never made one complete crank and fired up and soon as it started shoved choke back in.I think thats the difference between the electric and manual choke,I hated my electric choke the first one and the second one.Mike sometime take your doghouse off and work your primer on the side of the carb and see if that helps.If you run that last night,today it should have fired right up,mine would with the stock carb on it, If it was run the night before.

 

[Col.Hogan]

Hello everyone. I just joined your site to offer my fix for what seems to be an ongoing problem with the prowlers.
I have a '07 650 H1 that starts hard after it sits for more than 2 days. I found an area which allowed for vacuum leaking, then carb bowl evaporation. Here is what I did that fixed my problem.
Remove the carburetor. turn it upside down, remove the 3 screws from the pump cap. there is a spot for an O-ring in the cap. But there is also a spot in the carb body for an O-ring. (The parts diagrams I searched, all show just 1 O-ring) I added a second O-ring in the second position (carb body). Fixed my problem, starts quickly now. Hope this can help someone.

 

[mlh1962]

Might have to take a look at that the next time I have the cover off.

 

[CFSTB]

PRIMER CABLE INSTALL
I know this is a really old thread, but I just got this old Prowler XT UTV and while searching to see if anyone had come up with an easy way to get this thing started in the winter, I found that only one post showed an attempt at putting a cable onto the primer lever.
So here is how I did it, for those future searches. See all the attached pics to make sense of the following.

1. I needed a suitable push/pull cable. I searched online for various choke cables, but then took a look in my own spare ski-doo parts bin and found an old enricher cable (not a choke and not really a primer either) from an '07 Summit. It is a lever style rather than a knob, but it is just long enough and other than a mild kink in the cable, is almost perfect for this project.
2. I made a bracket out of a thin piece of SS scrap. This mounts to the bottom of the primer diaphragm housing using the original screws.
3. I cut a small piece of 3/8" aluminum rod and put it in a small hobby lathe to create a small shoulder so that it fits tightly into the hole in the primer lever. Then I drilled (still on the lathe) a 1/16" hole through the rod. Next I cut off the finished end of the cable and fed this through the hole in the rod. After I determined the correct position, I crushed the top half of the rod in a vice then used a punch on the opposing flats. This locked it solid to the cable. This step could also be done with a drill press with a bit more difficulty, or if you like to abuse yourself and are tool deprived, and hand drill could do it.
4. cut a thin slot using a zip-cut blade into the hole on the primer lever to allow the cable to enter the hole.
5. Install the cable and set the proper distance. You should have about 1/2" of travel.
6. Drill a hole and mount lever on console plate in space beside shift lever. The air intake interferes with the cable if it was mounted in the blank spot between the switches, so I had to put it below that where the cable could run unimpeded.

This seems to work great. It could also be done with a few modifications using a variety of push/pull choke cables.
I hope this helps someone.