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Discussion Starter #1
I need to know from the guys that lost a head gasket, was it the front or rear?
Dealer cant locate which one it is,done all the test.It will only leak when running hard in the dunes.

thanks,papa v
 

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I need to know from the guys that lost a head gasket, was it the front or rear?
Dealer cant locate which one it is,done all the test.It will only leak when running hard in the dunes.

thanks,papa v
Mine was the rear... The coolant was puking when I put my foot into it - irrelevant of temp.
 

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Mine was the rear. According to my dealer the radiator cap let coolant out at 4psi instead of 13 psi. this caused the loss of coolant and the weak point is the timing chain tunnel in the rear cylinder which overheated and blew the head gasket. There were at least two others before mine at the dealer as my paper work said "like all the others".
 

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I need to know from the guys that lost a head gasket, was it the front or rear?
Dealer cant locate which one it is,done all the test.It will only leak when running hard in the dunes.

thanks,papa v
what is going on? are you getting a/f in your oil,? compression in the a/f ?
 

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When mine went, it was consuming antifreeze. I was getting a lot of white smoke periodically. It ended up cracking the head and pulled a thread out of the block. Luckily the $2000 bill was taken care of by extended warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I can crusie slow for hours, as soon as I get on the throttle it starts puking A/F.I did the test at the radiator with the fluid thingy, it turned yellow.Which means exhaust gases present. Dealer did leak down test and let it idle for a hour and says its fine.Told them it will only do it under load,but they are smarter then me.

papa v
 

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Did you try a new radiator cap? if they get weak and release at 3-4 psi instead of the 12-14 they should. That would cause the same result. (trade caps with a buddy and see if your stops puking and his starts).

If this doesn't help my next move would be to go for a ride get it hot then stop on the ride and do a compression check and see if one cylinder is lower than the other this would be relatively easy to do on the trail .

If this doesn't do it then i would pull my heads off and have them checked for cracks and planed to make sure there not warped then put them on with new gaskets make sure they are torqued to the proper spec . (I usually try to re torque heads after the first ride some people say not necessary but I've never had one i replaced fail )
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tried new cap,removed thremostat.Compression is different between the clyinders.
Fighting with dealer because his test show no signs,like most it only does it under full throttle in the dunes.Hopefully they will replace both.


papa v
 

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Tried new cap,removed thremostat.Compression is different between the clyinders.
Fighting with dealer because his test show no signs,like most it only does it under full throttle in the dunes.Hopefully they will replace both.


papa v
compression should be differnt between cylinders on 1000s
 

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That's why you should do your own leak down test. Also if it is just leaking or having problem under load you have a bolt problem more than likely. In other words the clamping force is adequate during idle and low load situations. My opinion is to re torque the head bolts now. Then get to temp just idling and let it cool and re torque. If they all come up to torque spec great. But if they have a hard time torquing to spec the bolts are probably stretched. In other words if you have to get a lot of a turn to get them to torque might be a metalurgy problem. Or a thread problem.
On another note anytime these things are apart for a head gasket problem probably a good idea to check both mating surfaces for flat. The gasket and bolts gotta have a fair shot at sealing and the only way they will do that is if the surfaces are flat and if the bolts can reach the right clamping force.
compression should be differnt between cylinders on 1000s


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I am a little late here, But mine leaked from the rear. We didn't have luck with a leak down test, but when I got it under load on the Dino it started spitting fluid and you could see the water coming out of one side of the dual exhaust.

seems like the gasket only blew half way through at first, then It gets under a load and it will let go all the way and be very obvious
 

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My guess is one of the cylinders has a compression relief built into the camshaft. Most of the time it is a dowel pin that makes a set of valves open to soon or to late to build compression until the engine fires. Or not very much compression. Just a guess though. I have not seen it personally. Have seen this on a few power sport engines.



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