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Ok I'm going to put the top end back together tonight but need some clarification .....

I know how to physically install everything back together. What I don't know is how to install the can so its timed correctly. Are there markings on the upper and lower timing chain gears? Do the markings face each other, like a small block Chevy? There must be some marks so that the motor is on top dead center and cam goes in straight up.

Help would be appreciated, so this goes together smoothly. Just don't want to mess anything up by winging it....lol

Thanks.
 

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Best advise I got is get a manual it is all right there with pic's and very detailed.
I downloaded mine from a link on the site.
 

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If I remember correctly if you take the allen bolt out of the Stator cover on the top you can look in there with a light and as you turn the motor you will see a line and a mark indicating the front or the rear cylinder top dead center. It is in the manual though. I think it has an F and an R respectivley for each cylinder. Once you find out please remind us with a follow up. Thanks
 

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He is working on a 650.

Pull out the allen bolt like flying121 said turn over the motor until the line on the flywheel line up with the indicator on the case where the bolt was removed.
That is TDC.
Install the cam lobes facing down. There will be a line across the cam that should be lined up with the head / tappit cover mating surface "horizontal".
You will need to work the chain and cam gear around to get all this correct.
Then install the chain guide once you have it all together then release your chain tensioner and double check your refrence mark on the cam to head and your timing mark on the flywheel.

It is easy but the book lays it out real nice thats why I suggested it. It also has all the torq values listed as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
figured it out...

thanks for all the responses. I was at work when I posted this thread and could not open the service manual to check. Riddler28 is right, it tells you step by step how to install everything.

I got the whole top end together tonight minus a few valve cover bolts Im still looking for:confused:
Still waiting on the oil pump and secondary clutch shoes which should come in tomorrow from UPS so I can finish putting the side of the motor back together.

So if everything goes right maybe this thing will fire up tomorrow night:eek:....got my fingers crossed. Hopefully my next post will have some good news.

Thanks again
 

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180 degree wrong on bottom end?

Hi everyone!

Sorry for stealing this tread but its allmost in the same area. I have gone thru the workshop manual but didn't find anything on the bottom end.

Anyway, I'm a rookie at Prowlertalk, new to this forum. I'm from Europe / Sweden, got my hands on a used 2008 Prowler XT 650 h1 a year ago.
I got a bit confused reading this tread, I'm about to put my engine back together (top end). I had some issues with poor idling and backfiring, teared of the head and found lots of coagulated/burned oil stuck on the intake valves. I'm waiting for the head/cylinder to return from the engine shop so I can assemble it back. Depending on verdict from the mechanic💸

My concern right now is that I might have rotated the crank one turn whilst removing the piston and fiddling with the chain. Since its a four stroke it fires every second rotation, right? Is there any way to see if the crank is in the tdc on the compression stroke? Beside mounting all up and test start? 50/50 chance😁

Ignition plate/rotor is kinda well hidden to see if its 180 degrees wrong ...

Please get me back on the road!

John from Sweden (land of Bjorn Borg, Blond women's, Ikea and meatballs):D
 

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Hi everyone!

Sorry for stealing this tread but its allmost in the same area. I have gone thru the workshop manual but didn't find anything on the bottom end.

Anyway, I'm a rookie at Prowlertalk, new to this forum. I'm from Europe / Sweden, got my hands on a used 2008 Prowler XT 650 h1 a year ago.
I got a bit confused reading this tread, I'm about to put my engine back together (top end). I had some issues with poor idling and backfiring, teared of the head and found lots of coagulated/burned oil stuck on the intake valves. I'm waiting for the head/cylinder to return from the engine shop so I can assemble it back. Depending on verdict from the mechanic💸

My concern right now is that I might have rotated the crank one turn whilst removing the piston and fiddling with the chain. Since its a four stroke it fires every second rotation, right? Is there any way to see if the crank is in the tdc on the compression stroke? Beside mounting all up and test start? 50/50 chance😁

Ignition plate/rotor is kinda well hidden to see if its 180 degrees wrong ...

Please get me back on the road!

John from Sweden (land of Bjorn Borg, Blond women's, Ikea and meatballs):D
Hang in there we have a member on here that rebuilt his motor,he will be a big help,you can P/M him his name is outwest.
 

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I'm not sure where you are in the assembly process but if your far enough along you can put your finger in the spark plug hole and feel the compression stroke.
 

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It has been a while but if I'm remembering correctly all you have do do is line up the hash mark on your flywheel with the hash mark on your cover and that will be TDC. I thought the revolution would go through both the intake and exhaust cycle. If you have your valve covers opened you will see the valves go through their cycle. Both will be loose when you are at TDC. So open your TDC inspection cover and rotate your flywheel till you have the hash marks lined up / have both your valve covers off and make sure both the intake and exhaust valves are loose and you will be at TDC.
 

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Hi everyone!

Sorry for stealing this tread but its allmost in the same area. I have gone thru the workshop manual but didn't find anything on the bottom end.

Anyway, I'm a rookie at Prowlertalk, new to this forum. I'm from Europe / Sweden, got my hands on a used 2008 Prowler XT 650 h1 a year ago.
I got a bit confused reading this tread, I'm about to put my engine back together (top end). I had some issues with poor idling and backfiring, teared of the head and found lots of coagulated/burned oil stuck on the intake valves. I'm waiting for the head/cylinder to return from the engine shop so I can assemble it back. Depending on verdict from the mechanic💸

My concern right now is that I might have rotated the crank one turn whilst removing the piston and fiddling with the chain. Since its a four stroke it fires every second rotation, right? Is there any way to see if the crank is in the tdc on the compression stroke? Beside mounting all up and test start? 50/50 chance😁

Ignition plate/rotor is kinda well hidden to see if its 180 degrees wrong ...

Please get me back on the road!

John from Sweden (land of Bjorn Borg, Blond women's, Ikea and meatballs):D
Have you had the clutch assembly out of it yet,back behind the wet clutch there is a gear called a driven gear it runs off the oil pump gear some of the prowlers were bad about having teeth breaking off that gear and when that happens it quits pumping oil to the top end.
 

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Thanks guys, I really appreciate it !

Out west, I'll have to go for that solution...
50% chance 😉

Workpace on a fourstroke as i I remember:
- intake (crank moves down)
-compression (@TDC/crank all way up, coil give spark, bang)
- work (crank moves down)
-exhaust (@crank moves up exhaust valve open, rotor shall trigger spark in 180degrees on the ignition plate. aka next time crank/piston is up.

In other words if I'm unlucky I'll assemble piston cylinder and head but whit the hashmark 360degrees wrong. Line up the camshaft lobes and it will give proper compression etc. But spark will now fire att the top end on the exhaust stroke...

But as said earlier 50% luck and it will be fine😅 othervice of with the cam chain and rotate one revolution.


- Left my cylinder and piston as well to the mechanic today, he took a quick measurement of cylinder piston and ring gap. He told me to buy a set of new piston rings and valve seals and then he will Mira mill the valve seats and polish the valves. He told me my issues is because of worn out piston rings. Burned oil getting the intake valves not to close properly. Usually poor maintenance on air filter. 😬

Sad thing is when I call the local parts dealer and he tells me he wants 200 us dollars for a set of piston rings (no piston). and almost 100 bucks for 4pcs of valve seals.
Had to bite my tongue not to tell him my opinion....

Now the hunt is on for some some rings and seals...from your side of the pond

Might even get some hi-comp piston for those kind of money... Dont know if the gain is that great since the rest of the setup is stock.

Of to Ebay now.... Cheers!
 

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Thanks guys, I really appreciate it !

Out west, I'll have to go for that solution...
50% chance 😉

Workpace on a fourstroke as i I remember:
- intake (crank moves down)
-compression (@TDC/crank all way up, coil give spark, bang)
- work (crank moves down)
-exhaust (@crank moves up exhaust valve open, rotor shall trigger spark in 180degrees on the ignition plate. aka next time crank/piston is up.

In other words if I'm unlucky I'll assemble piston cylinder and head but whit the hashmark 360degrees wrong. Line up the camshaft lobes and it will give proper compression etc. But spark will now fire att the top end on the exhaust stroke...

But as said earlier 50% luck and it will be fine😅 othervice of with the cam chain and rotate one revolution.


- Left my cylinder and piston as well to the mechanic today, he took a quick measurement of cylinder piston and ring gap. He told me to buy a set of new piston rings and valve seals and then he will Mira mill the valve seats and polish the valves. He told me my issues is because of worn out piston rings. Burned oil getting the intake valves not to close properly. Usually poor maintenance on air filter. 😬

Sad thing is when I call the local parts dealer and he tells me he wants 200 us dollars for a set of piston rings (no piston). and almost 100 bucks for 4pcs of valve seals.
Had to bite my tongue not to tell him my opinion....

Now the hunt is on for some some rings and seals...from your side of the pond

Might even get some hi-comp piston for those kind of money... Dont know if the gain is that great since the rest of the setup is stock.

Of to Ebay now.... Cheers!
Subitus,when you get it fired up make sure it's getting oil to the top end.You might want to install an oil gauge.
 

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Subitus,when you get it fired up make sure it's getting oil to the top end.You might want to install an oil gauge.
X2 on that, found out the hard way.
 

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Have you had the clutch assembly out of it yet,back behind the wet clutch there is a gear called a driven gear it runs off the oil pump gear some of the prowlers were bad about having teeth breaking off that gear and when that happens it quits pumping oil to the top end.
Ahh.... Jesus, it never ends. Will an oil pressure gauge connected to the test plug below the oil filter do it? Or do I need to fabricate something on the head?

Is this sprocket made out of plastic or what?
 

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Ahh.... Jesus, it never ends. Will an oil pressure gauge connected to the test plug below the oil filter do it? Or do I need to fabricate something on the head?

Is this sprocket made out of plastic or what?
Yes, you can use the plug below the oil filter,we have a big write up in here under the project section on oil pressure gauges or gauges.The earlier prowlers had factory oil coolers and the cooler lines were plumbed into those holes,the gear was a hit and miss thing,they do have a updated gear for that now.
 

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No, the gear is iron, but it has been hit and miss on failures. It is listed as Driven Gear, cost (US) is around 38.00 dollars. Usually the teeth wear off, then oil pump quits working. Arctic Cat did upgrade the gear.
 

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Thanks guys, I really appreciate it !

Out west, I'll have to go for that solution...
50% chance ��

Workpace on a fourstroke as i I remember:
- intake (crank moves down)
-compression (@TDC/crank all way up, coil give spark, bang)
- work (crank moves down)
-exhaust (@crank moves up exhaust valve open, rotor shall trigger spark in 180degrees on the ignition plate. aka next time crank/piston is up.

In other words if I'm unlucky I'll assemble piston cylinder and head but whit the hashmark 360degrees wrong. Line up the camshaft lobes and it will give proper compression etc. But spark will now fire att the top end on the exhaust stroke...

But as said earlier 50% luck and it will be fine�� othervice of with the cam chain and rotate one revolution.


- Left my cylinder and piston as well to the mechanic today, he took a quick measurement of cylinder piston and ring gap. He told me to buy a set of new piston rings and valve seals and then he will Mira mill the valve seats and polish the valves. He told me my issues is because of worn out piston rings. Burned oil getting the intake valves not to close properly. Usually poor maintenance on air filter. ��

Sad thing is when I call the local parts dealer and he tells me he wants 200 us dollars for a set of piston rings (no piston). and almost 100 bucks for 4pcs of valve seals.
Had to bite my tongue not to tell him my opinion....

Now the hunt is on for some some rings and seals...from your side of the pond

Might even get some hi-comp piston for those kind of money... Dont know if the gain is that great since the rest of the setup is stock.

Of to Ebay now.... Cheers!
There really isn't even a 50% chance. Every revolution of the crank/flywheel back to the hash mark goes through both the intake and exhaust stroke (if I'm remembering correctly). So every time you hit the hash mark you are at TDC (providing your cam is setup properly). So there is no having to guess whether you are on the intake or exhaust stroke. Hash mark is at TDC. At least if this is what I'm remembering correctly. It has been a while.
 
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