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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning everyone,


I own a small atv/small engine repair shop and had a customer bring in a 2009 prowler xtz 1000. Compression check showed low compression was the culprit of the no run/start condition so we proceeded to rebuild the top end utilizing all oem equipment and all is well. unit starts up and idles without a issue. We reset all engine codes, set the tps per the manual and now were currently battling a issue with the machine running as it should as far as revving out it will only get to abour 4k rpms in high. now if we were to stop, shut the machine off, start it back up and immediately press the accelerator to the floor before the cpu has time to boot up it will run like a scalded dog.



we noticed that when we first put the machine back together a E would show up on the gear position indicator and we adjusted the cable and all seem to be as it should as far as the shifter adjustment goes. we had reset all codes, cpu shows zero codes and tps is adjusted properly.
 

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Good morning everyone,


I own a small atv/small engine repair shop and had a customer bring in a 2009 prowler xtz 1000. Compression check showed low compression was the culprit of the no run/start condition so we proceeded to rebuild the top end utilizing all oem equipment and all is well. unit starts up and idles without a issue. We reset all engine codes, set the tps per the manual and now were currently battling a issue with the machine running as it should as far as revving out it will only get to abour 4k rpms in high. now if we were to stop, shut the machine off, start it back up and immediately press the accelerator to the floor before the cpu has time to boot up it will run like a scalded dog.



we noticed that when we first put the machine back together a E would show up on the gear position indicator and we adjusted the cable and all seem to be as it should as far as the shifter adjustment goes. we had reset all codes, cpu shows zero codes and tps is adjusted properly.
sorry I can't help even though I have the same machine , the only issue I've had was the decompression set-up where it acted like a dead cylinder ... but otherwise I've never had a lick of issues with mine .. when you first started the conversation I thought of mine but sounds like not further into the conversation. MY best GUESS is cpu but have no basis to make the thought except your final statement about by passing on startup assuming it's in neutral then.

welcome to the site though :) ... hold on as there are some very smart fellows who might chime in.
 
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I have verified spark on both cylinders and verified both fuel Injectors are spraying. Most of my business revolves around polaris, Honda and Kawasaki and I don’t have quite the experience that I should dealing with arctic cats. I’m leaning towards maybe a Ecu problem at this point because everything else tells me the thing should run. And the fact that I can start it up and run wide open before the dash completely loads tells me that it’s not a fuel pump problem, injector problem or a spark/coil problem.
 

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Does it run and / or sound like it is hitting a rev limiter ? Try holding the override switch for the reverse and see if that does anything.
 

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Welcome Garrett! Someone will chime in with the solution! Other than the "E" error code did anything else show?
 

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No sir, absolutely nothing. It had a plethora of codes the first time it started up after the rebuild. I cleared all the codes and nothing else had returned. TPS is set in the middle.

I’m going to check fuel pressure when I get back to the shop Monday to get a definite number and to verify pressure isn’t falling off in the upper rpm range. It honesty feels like it’s running on one cylinder, lacks any power at all. The best way to describe it is a brute force when in limp mode.

The hardest thing to understand is the fact that you can start it and immediately floor it and it runs flat out awesome until you slow back down or let your foot off the pedal then it goes back to running 4200-4500 rpms
 

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I would say either a bad spark plug or the compression release on the front cylinder. I recently had a generator that would fire right up and be fine then 30 seconds later due to the heat loose spark and drop that cylinder. Then 1 minuet later refire and the same process all over again. 8 dollars in plugs cured a 2k replacement generator.


Tim
 

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Th only help I got for you, is the spark plug wires. I was having a problem with it running on 1 cylinder sometimes. After all else failed, I replaced the wire and plugs, but not the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys.

As of this morning I have swapped front and rear injectors, no improvement. I have swapped front and rear coils with wires and have not shown any improvement or change. I have replaced the spark plugs with ngk plugs and both are getting spark while turning over. Both injectors are spraying fuel but at idle if you pull the rear cylinder plug wire it does not change the way it runs. If you place the plug wire back onto the rear cylinder and remove the front plug wire the engine dies.
 

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Compression ? When you pull the rear wire when it is running and there is no change and put it back on and there is still no change , shut it down and pull the rear plug and let us know what the plug looks like. Dry or wet. You have at least nailed it to the rear cylinder. possible cam timing ?
 
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I think you have a bad ECU.... I wrote on you FB post to check the white/blue wire for continuity for the front plug at the ECU, but sounds like you swapped wires and all, by reading the thread here.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think you have a bad ECU.... I wrote on you FB post to check the white/blue wire for continuity for the front plug at the ECU, but sounds like you swapped wires and all, by reading the thread here.
Yes sir, I have swapped every component front and rear and no change. I believe it to be the ecu as we due to me being able to start it up and immediately floor it and it runs great but as soon as I slow down to 10-15 it loses the rear cylinder. It has nothing to do with the rpm as i can fully realease the gas pedal and the rpms drop to idle but as long as the speed remains above 10-15 I can floor it again and it takes off great
 

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What does the rear cylinder plug look like? If you have a infrared heat gun, check the exhaust pipe temps to see if their is any difference in readings. I check about 2-3 inches from the head. Also look at any restrictions in the exhaust system. Now this is getting interesting!
 

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Good call RD! Those fiber exhaust gaskets do rot out and fall into the exhaust. I was wondering about that compression release button on the cam, too. If that was to fail at lower RPM's would hold the valve open (his 10-15mph miss) Higher RPM's its closing the valve and running fine... I'm shrugging my shoulders here! Wish I had a XTZ ECU to send him to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
What does the rear cylinder plug look like? If you have a infrared heat gun, check the exhaust pipe temps to see if their is any difference in readings. I check about 2-3 inches from the head. Also look at any restrictions in the exhaust system. Now this is getting interesting!
It’s perplexing to say the least, not sure on exhaust temps, I’ll check that tommorow. Plug looks extremely lean in my opinion but I’ll pull the two to check them side by side tommorow as I haven’t pulled the front plug as it’s not suspect but for investigations sake I’ll pull it in the morning. As far as the exhaust having anything in it I don’t think that’s a issue as it’s pulling fine and running great if you floor it before the dash/cpu loads.

As far as the cam goes I thought only the front cam had a decompression release on it. I don’t recall seeing one on the rear cylinder but I could be wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Compression ? When you pull the rear wire when it is running and there is no change and put it back on and there is still no change , shut it down and pull the rear plug and let us know what the plug looks like. Dry or wet. You have at least nailed it to the rear cylinder. possible cam timing ?
Compression was 210 if I remember correctly. I pulled the plug and it was dry and light tan in color.

And I’ll give you guys another curve ball. Jack the rear up to allow the rear wheels to turn and it runs out fine, so basically we removed the load on the drive line and the engine performed as it should. Ran up to 50 mph multiple pulls without a issue.

But back to a realistic cause. The only components that I have not swamped from front to rear and Vice versa is the spark plugs themselves. I pulled the rear plug and installed it into the plug wire just to verify spark and I had it, rear injector is firing fuel as well, swapped injectors from front to rear to see if problem followed but it did not. And even after all of the swapping I can still start it up and beat the cpu/dash Initializing it runs out fine until you slow back down. Once you come to a stop it drops back to one cylinder. I am at my wits end with this thing....
 

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Compression release is on the front cylinder only. At this point I'd recommend using the Country Cat tech site. I've used them in the past and they are pretty sharp! At least get another point of view!
 

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Ya, my brains spent!
 
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