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Discussion Starter #1
Is the front locker on an XTZ more like a posi trac? I had mine engaged and it was acting like a posi trac, I thought it was supposed to be like an ARB. Also my belt was slipping when I was in high and 4wd. Should I take it to the dealer and see whats going on or is this typical? By the way I was in the snow so I guess the belt could have been wet. I have about 300 miles on it so the belt shouldn't be wore out yet.
 

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I had the same problem needspeed. It seems like the front diff is not a true lock.As far as the belt i did the same thing,got it wet and smoked a belt.Now i took the cover off which is a pain, and it looks like a little oil in there. It may just be burnt rubber and water mixed together. I cant find any seal leaks.
 

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I was slipping belts and found that the plug on the bottom of the intake for the belt was gone so I put one in and not so much slipping. I think it was sucking water and snow in there. Its on the passenger side under the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like I'll have to pull the belt cover off and see whats going on. I'm pretty dissappointed in the "locker". Isn't that false advertising?
 

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cat n hat. I am going to lower my stock cage. I just noticed that you did that.I would like to get some pics and your thoughts on the best way to do this, also some pics of seats lowered would be helpful. email is [email protected]
 

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Arctic Cat front differentials are True lockers, if you look onto the forums that all the mud boggers get on to that is one reason a lot of them buy the cats because they are true locking differentials. It sounds as if maybe yours are not engaging fully. Maybe I'm wrong and they changed something on the XTZ, but I don't think so.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I thought it used to act like a true locker, but this last trip out it was like I said before it acted like a regular open diff, or maybe a posi. I'll see if I can adjust it, since my dealer probably won't be sure which is the front diff.lol.
 

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Arctic Cat front differentials are True lockers, if you look onto the forums that all the mud boggers get on to that is one reason a lot of them buy the cats because they are true locking differentials. It sounds as if maybe yours are not engaging fully.

are you flipping the switch all the way up ? thats why they have a 3 postion switch . 2wd, 4wd open front dif , and full locked . make sure the actuator moves each time you move the switch .
 

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Your axle prob pulled out just a hair and the locker teeth are not making contact. Cant remember which side is the locker side so just see if you can push either front axle into the diff a little more. As for the belt if you were in light fluffy snow you more then likely sucked some into you belt housing and thats what caused it to slip. If its still working i wouldnt bother taking it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
are you flipping the switch all the way up ? thats why they have a 3 postion switch . 2wd, 4wd open front dif , and full locked . make sure the actuator moves each time you move the switch .[/quote]

I had it in the locked position on the switch, I think I'm going to order a couple of the factory on/ off switches and hook the locker up on its own switch and the bypass switch I'm going to replace with another on/off switch, maybe I'll use the momentary switch for the by-pass as a horn button.

If the axle is slipping out and thats causeing the locker not to work will they fix it under warranty? If so is there a recall? My dealers usual story is that they have never seen or heard of the problem (no matter what it is, like the tie rods) so if its a recall it will make it much easier to get it fixed.
 

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If you can hear the locker engaging then the power is getting there and new switches wont do anything. Its not hard to fix just push it back in. If it keeps happening you can buy some axles spacers that will hold the axle in the diff. Call B&J custom atv lifts and ask for Jeff explain you problem and hell help you out 1-314-225-7669
 

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Locker Don't work

I have the same problem with my 1000. The axle on the driver side needs to be removed you will see the c clip on the axle take a thin rubber O ring strech it over the axle then install c clip back on axle. It will take a little force to get the axle back in but you can, You will also see that the seal on the drivers side will be leaking that's cause the axle is pulling out and ruining the seal. It's a bunch of bullcrap that AC doesn't recall the axle and correct the problem. You would never not notice the locker not working only if you are in snow. I KNOW ARCTICAT READS THESE POST SO HEY FELLOWS LETS GET THESE MACHINES REPAIRED.
 

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I had the same problem last weekend with my xtz except my axle actually popped out almost 2 inches the 4 wheel drive wasnt working at all i popped it back in and the 4 wheel drive worked again. I still dont have dif lock though. I know when my grizzly is in diflock i can barely steer it. And Needspeed your dealer is just the same as mine they told me they have never heard of a xtz that broke a tie rod or spit fluid out the overflow.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Northern Mud thanks I'll make a call.

Looks like a real common problem. I feel kind of bad I told some family members that these were good machines and they just bought one. I am really considering trading for a Teryx. But the same dealer sells Kawasaki, and the Polaris/Yamaha/Honda dealer won't take A/C for trade. There is just so much potential in these XTZ's but the constant problems and no back up form the manufacture is a huge disappointment!
 

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I agree with the potential thing. AC needs to get there heads out of there butts and help with these problems. It would pay off for them in the long run.
 

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I had the same problem last weekend with my xtz except my axle actually popped out almost 2 inches the 4 wheel drive wasnt working at all i popped it back in and the 4 wheel drive worked again. I still dont have dif lock though. I know when my grizzly is in diflock i can barely steer it. And Needspeed your dealer is just the same as mine they told me they have never heard of a xtz that broke a tie rod or spit fluid out the overflow.
Tell your dealer that another dealer just told you that there is a known problem with head gaskets on 09 model XTZs, that was so bad that AC came out with a new head gasket, part number 0830-209 to fix it. Also tell him that the rear axles on the 2010 XTZs have been switched to another style that locks into the diff (sorry, rear only right now). And AC also has issued a fix for tie rods bending and breaking at the threads, the 2010 XTZs come with a long jamnut on the tie-rod. This fixes the tie-rod at the threads, but then they'll bend in the middle. To fix it right, you need to use the long jamnut and sheath the tie-rod with another tube, or better yet, just buy some aftermarket tie-rods made to withstand abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Darryl 89 I am going to take this info to my dealer. I already had the tie rods replaced and had the longer jam nuts installed. Then I did exactly what you said I sleeved them, I think I used a couple 1/2 x 10" nipples that are schedule 80(I cut the threaded ends off). They have just the right I.D. for the tie rods. I'm sure my dealer will have a suprised look of confusion when I give him the part numbers. I had to explain to him that he could order just the tie rods not the whole steering assembly when I brought it in for the tie rods. The thing that made me the most mad was when he told me they couldn't warranty my tie rods cause I had welded one of them. It took a lot not to lose my temper as I explained there was no other way I could get the machine out of where it was and I couldn't leave it up there while I waited for parts. It was blocking a trail, and I had the bent piece I had to cut off to make the repair. I put up with this same stuff on my A/C snowmobile too. But it gone now. None of out local dealers are worth the [email protected] around here, no matter what brand you have.
 

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When you look up the parts for the 09 and up prowlers they do not list the tie rods and a part, only the whole rack. Do the 09's use the same tie rods as the older ones or have you guys found a new part number. When i bent mine my dealer put in a whole new rack, he even called the local rep to see if we could just get the tie rod and the told he no, just replace the rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ya the steering is the same they can just order the parts for a different year. I'm not sure if my dealer did a whole new rack or not, but if you want to buy some spares you won't want to pay for the whole rack. It really is worth buying after market heavy duty parts or reinforcing the factory junk. I hate ruining an outing by stopping to make repairs.
 

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i agree break downs suck. I don't know how much a stock rack is , but a RackZilla from Unisteer is just over 400 bucks. and worth every cent.
 
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