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Hi guys

I have been woundering when I should do a clutch and belt job on my 2009 700 prowler, I have 2600 mile with no issues at this time . I just do not wont to be stranded out in the desert and is there any other things I should do?
 

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I have the same machine, and miles. I did change my belt, I kept the old one for a spare. It did not show any signs of wear or glazing. I inspected the oil sump screen (recommended inspection every 500 miles), and change my oil and filter every 5-600 miles. I changed my front and rear differentials fluids at 1,000 miles. If you do change the fluids, make sure you use the AC fluid for the rear, as it has a additive for the turf saver rearend. Cleaned the air cleaner housing, and filter monthly, or sooner if I'm in a lot of dust.
 

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....and with much earlier discussion about differentials leaking starting to around seals, I would measure how much fluid is drained from each one and only put that amount back in. You do not fill the differentials to the bottom of the fill hole like many of us would think. I believe my manual says 1 inch below fill hole as the level.:)
 

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....and with much earlier discussion about differentials leaking starting to around seals, I would measure how much fluid is drained from each one and only put that amount back in. You do not fill the differentials to the bottom of the fill hole like many of us would think. I believe my manual says 1 inch below fill hole as the level.:)
correct Terry, 1'' below fill hole.:)
 

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Thanks guys just saved me some money, by not taking it in to the shop.
Dont be a stranger now,stop by from time to time,great members and great info.welcome to the site.....de3/mike:)
 

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I have the same machine, and miles. I did change my belt, I kept the old one for a spare. It did not show any signs of wear or glazing. I inspected the oil sump screen (recommended inspection every 500 miles), and change my oil and filter every 5-600 miles. I changed my front and rear differentials fluids at 1,000 miles. If you do change the fluids, make sure you use the AC fluid for the rear, as it has a additive for the turf saver rearend. Cleaned the air cleaner housing, and filter monthly, or sooner if I'm in a lot of dust.
hey, how do you check the oil sump screen? I haven't done this yet. Thanks,
mitch
 

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hey, how do you check the oil sump screen? I haven't done this yet. Thanks,
mitch
If yours is like the 650 it's loads of fun, you'll need to drop the skid plate and after you drain the oil remove the 4 bolts on the plate the drain plug screws in. 2 of the bolts are over a cross member and are a pain to remove.
 

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Mitch, Drop the skid plate, and there are 4 bolts around the drain plug. And if your machine is like mine, there is a crossmember directly under the back 2 bolts! I used a Torx bit, and a small wrench 1/4" I think it was. It just barely fits in the space, but once it is broke free you can get it out with your fingers. I replaced the bolts with hex head to make future work easy. Some plates use an o-ring, and others use sealant. I found the reference for inspection in my owners manual, so like a fool I had to go do it! Daryle from TN Posted a thread on this, tool used, and where to buy, and compliments on the factory design!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
 

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If yours is like the 650 it's loads of fun, you'll need to drop the skid plate and after you drain the oil remove the 4 bolts on the plate the drain plug screws in. 2 of the bolts are over a cross member and are a pain to remove.
mike I think someone had a post on here about that,I think it was using a torx bit with a wrench,not sure.
 

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Here's a screen shot from my manual.
Oil sump screen.JPG
 

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mike I think someone had a post on here about that,I think it was using a torx bit with a wrench,not sure.
That's what I did, I used a 1/4" box end wrench and held the torx bit with duct tape. I think I have an extra wrench and might JB Weld the bit to it for the next time.
 

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Thats something that I have never done,better do it next oil change.or maybe sooner.
 

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I did mine at 2,000 miles, found nothing there, which is a good thing! I split my skid plate so I can drop the section under the engine, and replaced the torx bolts with hex heads. I drop the plate for oil changes now, and do the screen at the same time.
 

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I need to split my skid plate,would make changing oil easier.I noticed if you dont drop skid plate you will fill it up with oil.when it was new dealership adjusted valves and changed oil,didnt take off skid plate,next morning drips of oil on garage floor.:mad:
 

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I posted a thread back in December on my oil strainer, I replaced the plastic skid plate under the engine with 3/16 " alumunum diamond plate, I had two pieces left from another project so I put them to use. The area is 20 " front to back,, and each section is 10" . I just remove the back for oil changes. Its amazing what you can see from under the machine! Looks like a money pit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RD
 

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Yeah if there is anything broke, this is where you'll find pieces!
 

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Nothing ventured, nothing gained! You won't find anything that a magnetic drain plug would find!
 
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