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Discussion Starter #1
After working really hard to meet my 15 post minimum, I just thought I'd take an opportunity to share some pics of my Prowler. It's become one of my family's most favorite toys. I bought it last fall to get my family outdoors and to be able to participate in a lot of the rides my family goes on (no longer hitching rides ).

I purchased it last fall for 7200 and it came with the added bonus of the cab with glass windshield and wiper, rear window (which I ditched), Trail Armor doors, Warn 3500lb winch with wireless remote, and CB. Prior owner had used it primarily to plow snow so the front tires were worn down and the drive belt needed replaced.

Since then, I've done the following:
Chopped 4" off the cab
Hand built extended roll cage
Installed BEARD rear bench seat and 4 point harnesses
Dynatek FS cdi and Dynatek coil
New Maxxis Big Horn tires
New cvt belt
Brisk ATV performance plug
Added cool stickers to make it go fast!!!


 

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Weekend before last we had the opportunity to go out on a 51 mile ride outside of Gooding, Idaho. The ride was awesome and presented some nice, challenging terrain. Lots of rocky trails to climb through, mud, water crossings and snow (once we got up high). Got so see a nice herd of 50 or so elk and some antelope. Wife and kids had a blast. It was my first big shake-up run since buying the machine last fall.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you look hard, you can see the elk in this picture by Mr Blurrycam.


My wife having a good ol' time

My kids having a good ol' time.
 

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Does it look good with mud? Why yes it does!

Some barren, but fun country to ride

Me and my brothers machines

Me piloting my EA-6B
 

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awsome ride man and nice job on the rear roll bar!!
 

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Damn things are addictive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Great pictures, and thanks for sharing
 

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Nice looking ride, and I second that on the rear cage. Nice job. I purchased a rear cage off of a member on here. Hope it looks as nice as yours does.

Looks nice chopped 4 inches as well. I would like to do that, but sounds like a lot of work involved. Not sure I'm up for that task. Plus my recently purchased cage may not fit anymore if I chopped my stock one.

Did you chop 4" off both the front and back support of the front cage or just 4" off of the rear support?
 

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mavic19,how did you make your front windshield work,since you chopped your top 4'' looks good,looks like a factory articcat windshield.:)
 

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mavic19,how did you make your front windshield work,since you chopped your top 4'' looks good,looks like a factory articcat windshield.:)
This is why I was thinking maybe he only chopped the rear support 4 inches and not the front support.
 

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This is why I was thinking maybe he only chopped the rear support 4 inches and not the front support.
I think your right the roof looks level.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the compliments!
As for the questions on the cage chop; yes, the 4" was chopped off the rear cage and 2" was chopped from the front (which gives it a much more level look). The factory windsheild did pose a challenge as we had to trim off two inches off the top while keeping enough metal to make new mounting tabs which we bent down to mount the factory roof to. The wiper motor also posed a challenge as we had to reposition the motor to more of a vertical mount because it was coming in contact with the side of the cage. We also had to trim off the bottom of the cross brace the headrests are mounted to and rewelded a flat mounting plate.
We purchased heavy tube steel for the rear cage and used an old tube bender to hand bend the tubes to the desired shape and did our best to replicate it on the other side. We chose expanded metal for the roof to prevent brush from poking down and slapping my kids. A center support was added to give additional sturdiness. Then we stick welded it to the factory rear cage mounts. It's a damn solid cage, but the only drawback is that I have to remove the entire cage to tilt the bed (which isn't an issue because of transforming it to a 4 seat design).

1) Here's what it looked like when I purchased it:


2) Here's what we chopped off:


3) Checkign the cuts to make sure they were flush


4) Cage after chop
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Then we were off to fabbign the rear cage extension. Lemme tell you; hand bending tube steel to the right angles is tedious and my brother and I now have a good understanding of why some of these shops charge so much for full cages. But...on the plus side; I only have $300 invested in building my rear cage.

1) Right side done! Now to replicate the bends for the driver side.


2) both sides and cross braces cut


3) Initial welding done. But discovered the drivers side was a bit tipped in so we reworked it a bit.


4) Expanded metal roof all tacked on

 

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Discussion Starter #16
The finished rear cage ready to be welded to the front cage;


My brother utilizing his badass welding skills

 

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It turned out nice. I would like to cut my cage down some for more room to clear in my "future" toy hauler.:D But I don't think the rear cage I just bought would fit anymore. Guess if I decide to cut the front cage I can sell my current rear cage and have a custom one built to match the front.

Did you ever think about just welding on mounting tabs on the front of your rear cage to where you could just bolt it to the existing cage (way mine is). This way you could quickly unbolt just the rear cage and use the dump bed if you wanted (not that you need to with the 4 seater).

Oh, and by the way nice shop setup. Wish I had something like that......
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The seat also had to be custom installed. After shopping around for rear bench seats, I was having a problem finding what I would consider a "good deal." Seriously...I think that once something has been purpose-built for a UTV there's an immediate 1000% markup. But, eBay was good to me and I got lucky. I picked up a slightly used BEARD bench seat for a great price of $239 (which included shipping). Since Beard didn't build a seat mount for their 42" seat for the Prowler (they make a specific 48" seat and mount kit) I had to again do a little fabrication to build a mount that would fit between and above the 3" high fender wells in the bed. Luckily, I had some flex steel laying around begging to be used and some square steel tubing.

Luckily, I had some flex steel laying around that I was able to make a mount from.


Since the flex steel base fit snug, I drilled holes into the square steel tubing and affixed the base to the seat. Total seat mount cost: a trip to harbor freight to buy a 3" die cutter for $30


Now....here's where hindight being 20/20 becomes a *****. Since we had welded the extended roll cage to the main roll cage back frame, I had to take the cage back off to tilt the bed back so I could remove the bolts that are used to mount the bracket. An hour later, I was able to get the seat installed and another hour to put the cage assemble back on. But dang, I'm liking the looks!
 

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Sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!RD
 

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Finally, the 4 Point Harnesses. Another item I turned to ebay to acquire. After doing some poking around, I decided on some 4 points meant for a car and rolled the dice taking a chance in hoping I could make them work. At $45 for the pair, why not? As compared to the $200/pair for a name brand.


The rear holders aren't fancy at the moment (will get welded in place) but they work fine for spacing the belts to the appropriate width for my kids shoulders.


Ta-da!!! working 4 point harnesses! And only $50 total invested (harnesses plus hardware).
 
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